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Non-A/C heater box in factory A/C cab??

 
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Old 01-19-2019, 06:27 PM
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Non-A/C heater box in factory A/C cab??

Hi all, i have a 1978 F250 4x4. It is a factory A/C cab and it doesnít have functioning air, nor do I plan on fixing it. I also have a 1977 non A/C cab for parts. I was wondering if for sake of having extra space under the hood and getting rid of the old cracked up ducts in the dash, what is involved in swapping the non-A/C box into my truck? I know i have a big hole to patch and thats not an issue. Any advice is appreciated.
 
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Old 01-21-2019, 08:09 PM
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Anybody? Anything?
 
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Old 01-21-2019, 08:34 PM
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They're completely different setups. You'd have to patch the hole, make new ones for the blower and hoses and swap all the under the dash components ( including the controls)


 
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:17 PM
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I replaced my cab, and the new one was an AC cab. I cut that portion of the firewall out of my old cab and used it as a crude patch and mounted my heater case, which kind of holds it in place.

My plan is to eventually add AC. I'm wanting to use maybe a '90s Corolla case, as it seems like it could be perfectly controlled by my heater-only controls other than the separate compressor switch those Japanese cars have, which could be mounted under the dash or someplace.
 
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Old 01-22-2019, 11:13 AM
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I installed this in my 75. It has worked great since. If you look into this, understand that some fabrication will be involved. All extra parts I needed were available at the hardware store and you may not be able to control with your dash heater controls.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-my-way-2.html
 
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Old 01-22-2019, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by meangreen92 View Post
I replaced my cab, and the new one was an AC cab. I cut that portion of the firewall out of my old cab and used it as a crude patch and mounted my heater case, which kind of holds it in place.

My plan is to eventually add AC. I'm wanting to use maybe a '90s Corolla case, as it seems like it could be perfectly controlled by my heater-only controls other than the separate compressor switch those Japanese cars have, which could be mounted under the dash or someplace.
Thanks. Do you happen to have any pictures of your firewall? I kind of thought that i could cut the section of firewall out with the holes for the blower motor and heater hoses and bolt it to my cab where the heater box bolted up with some weatherstrip adhesive to seal it up. I have the whole dashboard with heater controls and cables in my parts cab. I assume I will have to plug off a few vacuum lines. Anything else I should look out for?
 
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Old 01-23-2019, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BiltFordTuff View Post


Thanks. Do you happen to have any pictures of your firewall? I kind of thought that i could cut the section of firewall out with the holes for the blower motor and heater hoses and bolt it to my cab where the heater box bolted up with some weatherstrip adhesive to seal it up. I have the whole dashboard with heater controls and cables in my parts cab. I assume I will have to plug off a few vacuum lines. Anything else I should look out for?
It's kind of hard to see because my new cab is the same color as my old cab. I really just eyeballed what I needed to cut, and went at it with a sawzall. And I ended up with a gap or two, so it's not pretty either... My initial plans were to drill holes in the patch plate, and bolt it to the firewall, but I wimped out and just let the heater case hold it in place. My long term plan is to add AC, so I'm not too worried.
 
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Old 02-03-2019, 03:15 PM
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Ok so I took everybodys advice along with some other threads i found online and just plain and simple trial and error and i have accomplished it. It is not perfect but it fits and works really well.

First i removed the dash and heater box from the donor cab and got the sawzall and cut out a large chunk of firewall. I brought it home and after removing my dash and heater box and trimmed the piece of firewall down until it fit over the hole. Next i drilled holes and bolted the panel up, using some silicone to seal it up.

[img]blob:https://www.ford-trucks.com/528d685b-4fb1-4673-9e17-1fcf06f24423[/img]
[img]blob:https://www.ford-trucks.com/32c33b90-8335-4b4e-8fdf-8897f03a7102[/img]

I had to trim and fold the lip on the firewall then drill a hole in the trans tunnel. Everything else was pretty much plug and play.

[img]blob:https://www.ford-trucks.com/cd68a6f0-b78a-4920-9d66-0f445311b256[/img]

It looks and performs like factory. The old cables are a little stiff so i may end up replacing them soon but I absolutley love the simplicity of this setup. I never use my dash vents anyway so this just seemed logical. Not to mention all that extra room under the hood is to die for. Overall im pretty happy with the finished product.

[img]blob:https://www.ford-trucks.com/cafa5f21-4b4d-4a21-b954-58b2197c2258[/img]
[img]blob:https://www.ford-trucks.com/3e1a7b12-0fa2-4ba4-ab12-c165fbb164ed[/img]
 
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Old 02-03-2019, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BiltFordTuff View Post
I had to trim and fold the lip on the firewall then drill a hole in the trans tunnel.
Pics didn't work. But if you're talking about the seam where the firewall/toe-board meets the floor-pans, then keep an eye out for water on your floor. When I went to unload my new cab, the pinch-weld which sticks out at that joint caught the lip inside the truck bed, and hung up and got bent. I was able to bend it right back, but there is seam sealer there, and it cracked and some of it fell out. So now I have a little leak there which I will hopefully address this summer.


It looks and performs like factory. The old cables are a little stiff so i may end up replacing them soon but I absolutley love the simplicity of this setup. I never use my dash vents anyway so this just seemed logical. Not to mention all that extra room under the hood is to die for. Overall im pretty happy with the finished product.
And try running some automatic transmission fluid through those cables and see if they free up any. I didn't bother to do that, but a couple of mine were a little stiff, but I solved it by straightening the ends of the cables where they come out of the insulation/sheath, and oiling the actuation levers coming out of the heater case. My cables were probably bent from hacks working on the truck before I got it.
 
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Old 02-03-2019, 03:58 PM
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Here's a pic of some of it:
 
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Old 02-03-2019, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by meangreen92 View Post
Pics didn't work. But if you're talking about the seam where the firewall/toe-board meets the floor-pans, then keep an eye out for water on your floor. When I went to unload my new cab, the pinch-weld which sticks out at that joint caught the lip inside the truck bed, and hung up and got bent. I was able to bend it right back, but there is seam sealer there, and it cracked and some of it fell out. So now I have a little leak there which I will hopefully address this summer.


And try running some automatic transmission fluid through those cables and see if they free up any. I didn't bother to do that, but a couple of mine were a little stiff, but I solved it by straightening the ends of the cables where they come out of the insulation/sheath, and oiling the actuation levers coming out of the heater case. My cables were probably bent from hacks working on the truck before I got it.
Oops i havent figured out how to put the pics up on my phone yet. Iíll get help and try to repost them. And no i meant the lip that went around the old evaporator case. Just had to straigthen it in a few spots and trim around the top right corner by the blower motor to make everything fit flush. And it turns out my cable is bent that switches from floor to defrost. Idk if it was bent before or if i bent it. But for about $20 or so i can have a new cable from Bronco Graveyard. I got a new temp cable for my 79 from them and I am pleased with it.
 
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Old 02-03-2019, 09:34 PM
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Here are the photos




 
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Old 02-03-2019, 11:37 PM
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OK, that's pretty much what mine looks like, but no bolts, and it's all blue...
 
 


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