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I might be wrong. The hood and grill are 51 but the dash looks like 48 to 50.
I think you are right, i noticed that when i bought it. The vin on the cab says it’s a ‘51 but (as far as i know) sometimes they roll over parts from the previous year before they will bring in the new design changes
As i am preparing for the frame build, i am realizing all the **** i forgot to take care of that i need in order to build it! One of those being… the rear suspension. I have planned a triangulated 4 link rear with box tube lower control arms and dom round tube uppers.
It’s not finished yet, still need to design the upper links on the housing, but it’s designed for a 40” lower arm and a 28” upper. I drew just enough data from the rear end to mock up the links. Getting ready to have these waterjet next week.
1" DOM, with 5/32" wall thickness. It gave an 11/16" ID, which was perfect for direct tapping the 3/4-16 for the threaded adjusters.
I like the look of side exit, but I still need to tune my carb better. I spray too much carbon and water condensate against the wall... For now I just open my cutout's to send the exhaust down, while I'm in the garage. Wife loves that!
1" DOM, with 5/32" wall thickness. It gave an 11/16" ID, which was perfect for direct tapping the 3/4-16 for the threaded adjusters.
I like the look of side exit, but I still need to tune my carb better. I spray too much carbon and water condensate against the wall... For now I just open my cutout's to send the exhaust down, while I'm in the garage. Wife loves that!
Good info! i was thinking for the truck application i might go to a 1” adjuster for more strength. Maybe i’ll get some DOM with the right size hole to tap those…
It probably all comes down to the power you want to put down and safety factor. I'm not putting that much power down. The 3/4-16 adjusters were the heavy duty ones at the time when I did it like 6-8 years ago. Mine's from Welder Series. Doing boxed or square arms would look cool, would just need a good threaded adapter to weld into the end of the arm. Round tube is pretty easy to work with though.
It probably all comes down to the power you want to put down and safety factor. I'm not putting that much power down. The 3/4-16 adjusters were the heavy duty ones at the time when I did it like 6-8 years ago. Mine's from Welder Series. Doing boxed or square arms would look cool, would just need a good threaded adapter to weld into the end of the arm. Round tube is pretty easy to work with though.
Just toying around with ideas here. I can get 1.25 od 10 ga DOM which is slightly too small a bore for a 1”-12 thread. So i can take it on the lathe, bore it, thread it and make it easily fit a 1” adjuster. I’m less worried about power more worried about towing abilities. As i will be using this truck to do a lot of towing of heavy equiptment.
06-30-2019, 10:33 AM
Good info! i was thinking for the truck application i might go to a 1” adjuster for more strength. Maybe i’ll get some DOM with the right size hole to tap those…