Hello... At long last, I am back in the shop (a cold-*** carport, actually..) working to re-install the transmission, a T-18 in my '65 F-250.
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Please feel free to make observations or ask questions about what I am doing... or what I think I am doing. As always, please don't confuse me with anyone that KNOWS what he's doing... This is my first "restoration," and there is a lot I've missed during the first 70 years of my life...

Although the manufacturer's plate on the driver's door indicated I would find a New Process 435 in the truck, I found a T-18-1 with T-98 top plate, specifically read as "T98-148-C". I know that some T-18 trannies had T-98 top plates early on... There's another line of print under that = "D2C-5"... I have read that the "D" indicates the 1970s... Maybe someone knows what the rest of those characters mean.

Looking into the tranny with the top plate off reveals very little to my uneducated eye. The gears look very good to me, bright and shiny. I see no chips, dings, gouges, hanging metal shavings, etc. The shaft turns easily and there is no front-to-back movement when I try to move the shaft along its axis. (Does that make sense?)

I removed the PTO plate on the passenger side and drained the remaining lube. I saw no shavings, etc. in this oil. What little of it remaining at the bottom of the tranny seemed very clean to me. I blotted out the remaining oil, as I was looking for a magnet that some trannies evidently have in the bottom to collect metal particles & shavings, but I didn't find one. Things look good in there, but what do I know?

In removing the PTO plate, I noticed the presence of a gasket at that opening, which I destroyed in the process. A parts store said they have a couple in stock.

I have a gallon of the appropriate gear oil and research tells me that I need 7.5 pints, which I hope to pour into the tranny after it's in place. With the cover plate on the cab floor removed, it appears that I should have enough room to pour in the oil and then install the tranny plate. Am I missing something here?

I have used a guide tool to align the splines at the clutch assembly and know the splines on the shaft at the front of the tranny need to aligned, too. I guess I can do that by hand as I nudge the tranny back into place.

Before that, I plan to re-install the bell housing... There's an opening on the side of the housing for the clutch fork. That opening requires a rubber dust cover. Should I install the new dust cover while the bell housing is off? (This is the second rubber dust cover that I have purchase. The first one ripped. Is there a trick to this? Lube it? Warm it up a bit?)

Is putting the tranny on a jack, jacking it up, and sliding it forward the next step? Do I need any lube on the shaft that enters the clutch assembly?

I am wondering about the two forks attached to the top T-98 plate... Do I have to align them with the rest of the tranny in some way?

That's it for now. I know re-installing the gear shift is just around the corner. When I get there, I might have some questions...

Thanks for reading this far...

 

I put a T-19 in mine. I inspected it as you did yours and concluded it was good, However, it howled like crazy on the first test drive. The tranny expert drained the oil while holding a bright light behind the stream. We saw a lot of glitter, and the tech said "needs bearings". He replaced the bearings, nothing else, and now it's perfect. You might want bearings. Look for wear on the shifter finger too, which is best done by comparing yours to a new one. That can be done later of course.

I used a rented transmission jack, which did not allow adequate adjustment to the angle of attack, but did allow the whole works to fall over. I got it in with a friend holding the weight from above. A jack is better, but try to get a good one. A T-18 is heavy and can hurt you.

The pilot bushing is oiled bronze and doesn't require lubrication. Many advise a small film of grease on the splines, but I'm leery of putting anything greasy near the clutch.

You didn't ask, but I will suggest that you choose a good clutch kit. I have used Fenco with poor results, and have a Luk in there now.

Eric

 

Just installed clutch kit, to include pilot bushing and about to install the T18 in my 65 with the 289/302. I installed the clutch fork boot before the bell-housing, then the throw-out bearing.

The transmission crossmember on my 65 is movable so I jack the trans in position then slide the cross-member in place to anchor the back of the trans keeping the front end on the floor jack. An FTE member suggested cutting the heads off a couple head bolts and round the ends then insert them into the bell housing to act as a guide. I have installed the trans on a number of occasions w/out using the guides but considering giving them a try? I also use a bottle jack to align the bell-housing/engine to the trans and if the stars are aligned hopefully the trans will slide in place? The 65 also has long-tube headers so before installing the trans I set them in place.

Intend replacing the oil once trans installed. On the T18 on my 65 there's a bottom pipe thread fitting for draining the oil and a side plate for filling requiring a pump., I am going to remove the side filler and gradually pour the oil thru the top with the shifter removed and fill until oil is just below the filler threads.

With re: to lubing the shaft, other member's are probly more knowledgeable; having said that, I am hesitant applying any lubricant that may possibly contaminate the pressure plate or clutch disc. so I do not apply any type of lubricant.

I am certain other member's will be chiming-in and offer other alternatives and suggestions!!

 

Thanks for responding... Your input is helpful...

 

Thanks for the input.... Adapting bolts to hang the BH on is a good idea... Bringing the cross member into the mix has merit, too...

 

I cut the heads off a couple different size bolts to act as guides, used a couple for the flywheel and head bolts as guides for the bell housing and the same head bolts as guides for the transmission. These ole senior citizen bones are not what they use to be and doubtful I will be taking on this project again in the future; if so, I have pulled the engine and trans together and would probly take this approach if I should have to do it again.

 

Like Dave said, and saw slots in the bolts for a screwdriver.
I had the crossmember out, but I'm not sure it will be necessary for you. I had to remove mine and turn it end-for-end to get the holes right.
Eric

 

Found I did not need to slot the guide, ended up selected a bolt length where I could remove the guide with either pair of pliers or vice grips once I started a couple bolts. Found the head bolts worked for me installing the bell housing and trans (still considering).

 

Do you mind sending me or posting a picture of your cab floor cover plate and maybe the floor without it installed? My truck had a t-18 installed in the past and the floor is all chopped up. I want to build and put in a cover one of these days. Thanks for all the great info in this thread.

 

It took a while, but I fashion these bolts yesterday... Today, I will try to adapt a floor jack to hold the tranny... Thanks...

 

I would be happy to do so... Little by little, I am learning how to use this forum... ever so slowly... Today, I just might figure out how to post photos... Please stand by...

 

Actually, you might want to sit... It's going to be a while...

 

Haha, no worries. I appreciate it!

 

Something to keep in mind is the alignment tools are typically slightly smaller than the actual input shaft so if you simply put the alignment tool in the back of the crankshaft and let the clutch disc hang from the tool it will often be too low in relationship to the pressure plate and other components. What I do is get the pressure plate finger tight to where the clutch disc can be moved slightly. Then I hold the alignment tool straight as possible - often lifting up slightly on the back end - and tighten the pressure plate bolts just enough more to hold the disc. Then I pull out the alignment tool and get my head up behind the housing so I can visually look down the bore where the input shaft will go. By visually looking you can often see the slightest misalignment that can make getting the transmission back in a real beech. By visually aligning or checking the alignment you can fine tune things before you even try to install the transmission. This can save some time wrestling with it while it is on the jack. You don't want to get frustrated trying to get the transmission back in since it is already a heavy beast.

Chad

 

Back in 70's auto shop class the teacher taught us to get everything lined up with an alignment tool and finger tight the pressure plate then check the alignment of the outside of the pressure plate to disc relationship with your fingers. Then run the bolts in evenly and recheck the outside of PP to disc again. If all is centered your good to go.