Struggling with white smoke and fuel smell (1968 F100)
#1
Struggling with white smoke and fuel smell (1968 F100)
Hi guys,
Was wondering if someone had any insight on my problem. I’ve got a 1968 F100 with a 302 and a C4 Automatic. I bought it about a year and a half ago and apparently the motor was rebuilt and has about 5000 miles on it. I’m struggling with white smoke coming from my exhaust and a strong fuel smell.
I did a compression test (dry only) 109-119 on each. I did a combustion leak test (no problems at all didn’t change colour). I just plugged in a Vacuum gauge on 2 different ports on my Holley carb, one was reading super low so I did it on the other one at the lower left underneath the front float and these are my results (I couldn’t even see much change when turning the screws an 1/8 at the time cause it was shaking so much):
Idling in Park:
In Drive:
Smoke from exhaust (fully warmed up water on ground cause I hadn’t started it in about 2 months let it idle for 10 mins before the clip was recorded.):
In the video it’s set to 2 turns out.
When I was setting my mixture screws the smoke was pretty consistent (when it forced the idle up it smoked a bit more).
Im at the point where I think I just need to find a good mechanic.
302 with a C4 Automatic
Holley Carb (I think it’s a 750)
Any advice before I throw in the towel? Much appreciated.
Thanks,
-Crazz
Was wondering if someone had any insight on my problem. I’ve got a 1968 F100 with a 302 and a C4 Automatic. I bought it about a year and a half ago and apparently the motor was rebuilt and has about 5000 miles on it. I’m struggling with white smoke coming from my exhaust and a strong fuel smell.
I did a compression test (dry only) 109-119 on each. I did a combustion leak test (no problems at all didn’t change colour). I just plugged in a Vacuum gauge on 2 different ports on my Holley carb, one was reading super low so I did it on the other one at the lower left underneath the front float and these are my results (I couldn’t even see much change when turning the screws an 1/8 at the time cause it was shaking so much):
Idling in Park:
In Drive:
Smoke from exhaust (fully warmed up water on ground cause I hadn’t started it in about 2 months let it idle for 10 mins before the clip was recorded.):
In the video it’s set to 2 turns out.
When I was setting my mixture screws the smoke was pretty consistent (when it forced the idle up it smoked a bit more).
Im at the point where I think I just need to find a good mechanic.
302 with a C4 Automatic
Holley Carb (I think it’s a 750)
Any advice before I throw in the towel? Much appreciated.
Thanks,
-Crazz
#3
One possibilty: Check the vacuum modulator valve on the transmission. If the diaphragm inside it ruptures, the engine will be drawing a direct vacuum on the transmission and it'll siphon the transmission fluid out of the transmission, into the combustion chambers and burn the transmission fluid along with the fuel. The result is a nice white cloud of smoke out the exhaust pipe.
#4
One possibilty: Check the vacuum modulator valve on the transmission. If the diaphragm inside it ruptures, the engine will be drawing a direct vacuum on the transmission and it'll siphon the transmission fluid out of the transmission, into the combustion chambers and burn the transmission fluid along with the fuel. The result is a nice white cloud of smoke out the exhaust pipe.
#5
What is the RPM at idle when using the vacuum gauge? I use a smartphone so it's hard to tell sometimes by sound for some reason, but it sounds like engine is racing. Sounds like normal RPM at the tailpipe video.
The needle shouldn't be bouncing like that, have to look at the vacuum gage chart. Black Smoke = Fuel, Blue Smoke = Oil, White Smoke = Antifreeze, It has a characteristic acrid odor. Once you've smelled it you know what it is. So that's a (not a very) good possibility. Usually means head gasket. I like the transmission oil/modulator theory a lot better, less hassle to fix!
The needle shouldn't be bouncing like that, have to look at the vacuum gage chart. Black Smoke = Fuel, Blue Smoke = Oil, White Smoke = Antifreeze, It has a characteristic acrid odor. Once you've smelled it you know what it is. So that's a (not a very) good possibility. Usually means head gasket. I like the transmission oil/modulator theory a lot better, less hassle to fix!
#6
What is the RPM at idle when using the vacuum gauge? I use a smartphone so it's hard to tell sometimes by sound for some reason, but it sounds like engine is racing. Sounds like normal RPM at the tailpipe video.
The needle shouldn't be bouncing like that, have to look at the vacuum gage chart. Black Smoke = Fuel, Blue Smoke = Oil, White Smoke = Antifreeze, It has a characteristic acrid odor. Once you've smelled it you know what it is. So that's a (not a very) good possibility. Usually means head gasket. I like the transmission oil/modulator theory a lot better, less hassle to fix!
The needle shouldn't be bouncing like that, have to look at the vacuum gage chart. Black Smoke = Fuel, Blue Smoke = Oil, White Smoke = Antifreeze, It has a characteristic acrid odor. Once you've smelled it you know what it is. So that's a (not a very) good possibility. Usually means head gasket. I like the transmission oil/modulator theory a lot better, less hassle to fix!
I will say this though I’ve had to top off my power steering fluid (type f trans fluid) twice since I’ve bought the truck which is crazy right? I’ve driven less than 500 miles since I bought the truck.
#7
Holly carbs have POWER Valve diaphram problems especially with pump gas alcohol/Gasoline, worn valve stem &or guides, valve seals, worn piston rings, fuel leaking from carb into engine thins oil & causes smoking, oil will have gasoline odor, trans shift modulator should hold vacuum or it will suck trans fluid into intake manifold causing smoke especially on high vacuum deceleration,
hope this helps
hope this helps
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#8
#9
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Any idea on the specs of the camshaft? Sounds like it's got some overlap in it.
A 750 is much too large for a 302, unless you're running a tunnel ram and racing it wide open all day.
Using too large a carb can result in being unable to tune it properly, since the engine doesn't move enough air to properly activate the venturies and different fueling circuits. (Or something like that)
You'd be better off with a 500Cfm carb. Depending on usage, possibly a 600.
Bouncing vacuum gauge like that could indicate a sticking valve, or one that's stuck, or one that for some reason isn't lifting or closing like the others are. Maybe a failed lifter, mismatched pushrod, mismatched/collapsed/broken valve spring. The list goes on. So I would be looking at the valvetrain. (Speaking from experience chasing "ghost" problems)
A 750 is much too large for a 302, unless you're running a tunnel ram and racing it wide open all day.
Using too large a carb can result in being unable to tune it properly, since the engine doesn't move enough air to properly activate the venturies and different fueling circuits. (Or something like that)
You'd be better off with a 500Cfm carb. Depending on usage, possibly a 600.
Bouncing vacuum gauge like that could indicate a sticking valve, or one that's stuck, or one that for some reason isn't lifting or closing like the others are. Maybe a failed lifter, mismatched pushrod, mismatched/collapsed/broken valve spring. The list goes on. So I would be looking at the valvetrain. (Speaking from experience chasing "ghost" problems)
#10
Holly carbs have POWER Valve diaphram problems especially with pump gas alcohol/Gasoline, worn valve stem &or guides, valve seals, worn piston rings, fuel leaking from carb into engine thins oil & causes smoking, oil will have gasoline odor, trans shift modulator should hold vacuum or it will suck trans fluid into intake manifold causing smoke especially on high vacuum deceleration,
hope this helps
also - if you have a mechanical fuel pump driven by camshaft, it can have a deteriated pump diaphram causing fuel to leak into engine oil. Smell the engine oil - smell of gasoline in oil & thin oil will cause white smoke & engine damage will eventually result.
hope this helps
also - if you have a mechanical fuel pump driven by camshaft, it can have a deteriated pump diaphram causing fuel to leak into engine oil. Smell the engine oil - smell of gasoline in oil & thin oil will cause white smoke & engine damage will eventually result.
Any idea on the specs of the camshaft? Sounds like it's got some overlap in it.
A 750 is much too large for a 302, unless you're running a tunnel ram and racing it wide open all day.
Using too large a carb can result in being unable to tune it properly, since the engine doesn't move enough air to properly activate the venturies and different fueling circuits. (Or something like that)
You'd be better off with a 500Cfm carb. Depending on usage, possibly a 600.
Bouncing vacuum gauge like that could indicate a sticking valve, or one that's stuck, or one that for some reason isn't lifting or closing like the others are. Maybe a failed lifter, mismatched pushrod, mismatched/collapsed/broken valve spring. The list goes on. So I would be looking at the valvetrain. (Speaking from experience chasing "ghost" problems)
A 750 is much too large for a 302, unless you're running a tunnel ram and racing it wide open all day.
Using too large a carb can result in being unable to tune it properly, since the engine doesn't move enough air to properly activate the venturies and different fueling circuits. (Or something like that)
You'd be better off with a 500Cfm carb. Depending on usage, possibly a 600.
Bouncing vacuum gauge like that could indicate a sticking valve, or one that's stuck, or one that for some reason isn't lifting or closing like the others are. Maybe a failed lifter, mismatched pushrod, mismatched/collapsed/broken valve spring. The list goes on. So I would be looking at the valvetrain. (Speaking from experience chasing "ghost" problems)
I'm almost 100% its this: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...parts/0-80508S
Pic of my Carb - https://i.imgur.com/BrGaEp9.jpg
#11
1969 was the first year the 302 was available in F100's. C6 not available with 302 until 1978.
So, it's possible that your 1968 F100 has a 302/C6 combo from a 1978/79 F100/150.
The original carb (if your '68 F100 had a 360 or 390 V8 originally) was the Auto-Lite 2100 series 2V
#14
Thanks guys for all the help. I’ll start by pulling the valve covers either today or tomorrow morning and record a video. I’ll definitely keep this thread updated.
#15
the smoke video shows evaporation quickly like steam, oil burning smoke lingers and fades away slowly with a blue tint & smells oily. Water passage at intake manifold may seep into intake runner causing steam cloud smoke.
Vacuum gauge looks like the timing is retarded, advance the timing, slow idle down to get throttle plate/butterfly closed to adjust air bleed idle mixture screws, re check timing with timing light. repeat if necessary.
Just a few sugestions.
may you do well, good luck
Vacuum gauge looks like the timing is retarded, advance the timing, slow idle down to get throttle plate/butterfly closed to adjust air bleed idle mixture screws, re check timing with timing light. repeat if necessary.
Just a few sugestions.
may you do well, good luck