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  #61  
Old 01-28-2019, 03:29 PM
Imadentguy
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Man your an animal! Glad you are making headway! I aint got a hair on my **** to start re-writing programs.... parhaps society has passed me up. You want me to fix a dent, or weld something? Or paint a car? ...i got you. Re-write programs?...... im out. Thats disheartening to find out it has to be changed through a lap top in order to get a quality sound.....Are you making these changes yourself or is someone doing it for you? Guess im gonna’ have to research this. Is it user friendly? Warranty issues if you get in there and change things?
 
  #62  
Old 01-28-2019, 04:02 PM
undl8r
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i'm doing it myself. was about $100 for Bluetooth diagnostic tool and a windows tablet (doesn't work so well on apple) it's not overly difficult and there is a lot online stuff. essentially Forscan loads in all of your modules' (there are a good number) settings. in each module there are lines for specific setting(s) and you make your changes here (write). you only usually change 2 or 3 numbers. the program does take a little bit to get used to but is intuitive once you understand what's going on - there are a few tabs for different things, and a few small buttons that must be hit to connect, read and write changes, etc. there are a few sheets floating around online that are collaborative efforts of all modifications that have been proven changeable.

i'd say warranty is a grey area. nothing that I've seen online changes any driving components (no mods to engine, x-mission, etc) its only stuff like activating a previously nonexistent key pad on certain XL models, changing radio config, changing horn honks on lock up, lights, roll/up down windows, make your mirrors fold for high end models, calibrate speedometer for different than stock tire sizes, etc... that being said I'm adding hill decent control and activating it with Forscan and appropriate switch. If something failed on HDC in no way do i think Ford would cover it.

you are in a cool business. are you able to get dents out of Aluminum? asking out of curiosity (have an engineering background) and i worked on an airstream and messed around with trying to remove dents.

wanted to get you suggestion for setting up gains with line level out. config is:
HU (line level) -> DSP input gain -> DSP output gain -> Amp single gain

for some reason i now have low level line noise coming through the amp (not horrible, but was non-existent with speaker level into DSP) and am not sure the best way to set my gains. i thought folks like to turn up the DSP input gains but i think that would make the noise worse. (I have another setting on my amp which i'm also going to try).

i've been grounded at my house all day so decided to make the best of it..
thx
 
  #63  
Old 01-28-2019, 09:27 PM
Imadentguy
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Yeah i dont know if i have the ***** to start changing things. Seeing as how i have the basic HU with cd player i ought to just buy an AM HU. I just want to keep my back up cam and steering wheel controls. I think im just going to amp my factory trash and call it a day. So long as i dont have a “hiss” or anything...... i’ll just make myself be happy with it..... i guess.....prolly not though . .....Yeah i love fixing dents! As for fixing dents in aluminum.... yes! Not like steel though. It has 0 memory, which is a problem. I essentially just wrench it up as clean as i can and then blend it out and try to hide it in the orange peel. Have to use heat alot of the time. It is a whole nother skill set compaired to PDR’ing steel.. All of the new cars are going aluminum. It makes my job very difficult. I spent last spring up in north dallas working a storm at a mercedes dealership. It was the first storm for me, where every panel on every car was aluminum. It was brutal! I will “door ding” aluminum panels at a dealership all day long, but fixing 300 quarter sized hail dents on a 60k dollar car, 12 hours a day, every day, for a month straight, is a whole nother story. The good thing about aluminum is it is way more dent resistant then steel. Its just terrible to PDR 75% of the time. I will say these SD’s are tough! I was on my way to to work a storm in denver last june, and i was caught in a hailstorm right outside of CO springs. Cars beat to hell all around me. My truck literally had 3 dents..... made me sick. Had 1300 miles on it and i hadent even made a payment. I got to denver and promply proceeded to PDR 3 of the best dents i had ever done! LOL i take alot of pride it what i do. I specialize in high end, as well as big dents. I like showing off, so ill post some of my work
 
  #64  
Old 01-28-2019, 09:44 PM
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The white car is an aluminum repair. The quarter panel repair is sreel. Both BMW’s
 
  #65  
Old 01-29-2019, 08:48 AM
undl8r
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truly amazing. i remember spending hours working on aluminum dents. didn't come out nearly as good as yours.

if Forscan scares you and given you live near a metropolis i'd consider posting in the Forscan thread an offer of a six pack for someone to update your ACM. it is only two lines and changing 5 or so numbers. Shouldn't take more than 5-10 min, most of it will be connecting to your truck. my other advice is write down the original settings (it's just two lines and a few numbers) and updated settings and keep in your glove box with owners manual. this way if anything goes awry or if for some reason your ACM gets reset back to OEM settings you have them on hand. if you can get a thumb drive backup of your OEM and changed settings that would also be ideal.

so far none of my Forscan changes have resulted in a permanent issue. voice button not working for a bit i think was my ACM still reseting itself with the new settings.
 
  #66  
Old 01-29-2019, 09:12 AM
Imadentguy
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Yeah man aluminum is tough to push out. Ive had alot of people ask me about fixing hail dents on their RV, and i always pass. I PDR’ed some skirt damage for a fellow one time and the results werent great, but not too bad either. He was happy.... im picky though. Glue pulling gives out of control, poor results with aluminum, and is more trouble than it’s worth. Ive never worked on an airstream..... id maybe give it a shot though so long as the interior was gutted and i could put a tool on the damage, and “see” the other side of the panel. Yeah i live on the west side outside of houston, so im sure i could find someone to help me when im ready..... ive been trying to contact the guy at plug n play kits about a harness for my truck, and their communication is dismal at best. They have no phone #, no email, only facebook messenger. I told him i had some questions and asked him for a phone # and i mever heard anything back from him. Beyond frustrating. He is the only one ive found that specifically states his integration harness fits the base cd unit in my xlt. I guess im going to have to spend more time looking at the parrot harness. Funny thing: i googled “parrot harness”, and thats what popped up.... a parrot in a harness! Made me laugh.
 
  #67  
Old 01-29-2019, 10:27 AM
undl8r
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Try this guy on eBay. He has a few harnesses available and after I made my purchase through him he responded quickly to a question I had.

https://www.m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?si...ne=true&_pgn=1
 
  #68  
Old 02-01-2019, 02:28 PM
Imadentguy
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Originally Posted by undl8r View Post
Try this guy on eBay. He has a few harnesses available and after I made my purchase through him he responded quickly to a question I had.

https://www.m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?si...ne=true&_pgn=1
hey man thanks for the link. So i have a question undl8r that maybe you can help me with. When you played around with forscan, did you see anything to add or delete the fade setting in the headunit? Simce i only have a front sound stage, my headunit only has a balance setting. I have no fade adjustment. Ive been trying to find out if my headunit will still have power to factory channels for rear speakers. I have thus far been unsucessful in finding an answer. Im thinking i would like to run a harness with a pioneer gmd1004, amplifying the front speakers with channels 1 and 2, but bridging the 2 rear channels to power a small sub and utilize the LP filter. Im just not sure if i have power to my two rear channels to pull the signal. If i do have power to the two rear channels, i would really like to be able to fade back to front so that i can have a little more control over the sub. I hate to just order the stuff to find out that its not going to work once installed.
 
  #69  
Old 02-01-2019, 07:10 PM
undl8r
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unfortunately it is a bunch of numbers with the exception of a few high-level changeable settings and i'll look next time i'm in. you could try posting in the Forscan thread. from what i can tell many folks are using the VIN of another vehicle with one or a few option differences and an online tool that provides the Forscan settings by module for a specific VIN. The lines where numbers are different are then tried out to see if something is enabled or changed. Essentially if you could locate the VIN (from dealers lots potentially) of a SC or CC version of your truck (with 4" screen) you should be able to figure out what is different in the ACM and apply it to yours, if multiple things are different you will have to do trial an error. i don't know if the wiring in your situation is different b/c you have only fronts, however, it is a good probability that you can turn on the rears.

some of the DSPs will also generate a rear channel and/or sub channel.

that being said I got my kicker DSP tuned in pretty good. (switched radio to line level out and wound up having 0 gain on amps, all channels). but am having a horrible problem with the unit as it randomly and often stops putting out an audio signal - light is on, confirmed it is the kicker by doing a bypass to amp. i've tried both line and speaker level input and turn on using remote and line level. i can't figure it out and it has done it on two units now. have to turn off vehicle to get it to reset.
 
  #70  
Old 02-01-2019, 09:23 PM
Imadentguy
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Man thats brutal.... is kicker at a loss? Its truely frikkin ridiculous how difficult it is now adays to add aftermarket in car entertainment. The fact that literally no one at the dealership can answer my question about the rear channels is a travesty. Its like they dont even know what the hell they sell and service anymore... I miss the days when you could just install an aftermarket headunit, and past that, the bank account, and your own level of stupidity, was the limit. Ive been a “car guy” for about 38 of my 40 years, and these new ones are just impossible to be excited about...... its a shame.
 
  #71  
Old 02-02-2019, 09:32 AM
undl8r
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kicker doesn't know. i hooked up HU to amp and with line level out it doesn't sound half bad. set all crossovers to 80MHz. def miss the remote bass and processing but i can't stand having audio shut off at will. it happens 95% of the time exactly when i exit the vehicle (i think the seat sensor is triggered, key is on or acc) and occurs randomly at other times. still think the amp is creating a sub signal with more punch than the DSP.

i hear you on technology. i was a techie for 20yrs (all over the field - manufacturing, R&D, marketing, facilities/construction, etc) and many times i felt we were introducing new products and moving forward for no real benefit to the end user. however, that being said it is fairly impressive that i can switch my HU speaker output to line level by changing a few numbers.

i was working on cars before i could drive (31 yrs ago) and i could fix most vehicles/repair as everything was simple. beyond light stuff (shocks, mounting accessories, filters, etc) i wouldn't even dare to try to repair or "tinker" with this truck.
 
  #72  
Old 02-02-2019, 09:53 AM
undl8r
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BTW I think you have another option. A company called ADS/Maestro make few interface harnesses and a controller that lets you retain sync (they told me rear camera functions too if you have it, but i would double check - i've called them directly with questions and they are very helpful) and ties sync into an aftermarket head unit (requires a new faceplate, in link below). i did this system on a 2012 (minus face plate since i was double din). it is ~$300 for the interface and plate. i was exploring this option but wound up getting a STX with 360 camera and am required to stick with stock unit for functionality. for something like this i would go through a shop, prices are usually same as Crutchfield. You could try on your own but it is a little involved and you have to program the module with their software but its is very intuitive. The ADS system also ties into OBD and provides a screen of gauges/sensor readings.

https://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearch/maestro.html
 
  #73  
Old 02-02-2019, 12:20 PM
Imadentguy
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Originally Posted by undl8r View Post
kicker doesn't know. i hooked up HU to amp and with line level out it doesn't sound half bad. set all crossovers to 80MHz. def miss the remote bass and processing but i can't stand having audio shut off at will. it happens 95% of the time exactly when i exit the vehicle (i think the seat sensor is triggered, key is on or acc) and occurs randomly at other times. still think the amp is creating a sub signal with more punch than the DSP.
Did you start having the shut down issue after you switched to low level with forscan? I could be off base here, but the “punch” is probably the non processed sub frequency. The front row is probably designed with the a SQ in mind, that most prospective buyers are going to be looking for at that price point. If you have ever sat in a vehicle that focused on SQ the bass line isnt real “punchy”. Its more of a smooth roll into the low end. More of a musical fill than anything. I bet its just the way the bass line is processed, but i could be wrong. I woild think they would still give you the option to get down if you wanted to. That would possibly be a question for kicker. I will say that with non processed signals, the brand of amplifier will 100% effect the way the bass notes sound. In the early 2000’s, (at least to me) the rockford punch series amps ALWAYS had the best sounding bass frequency reproduction, regardless of sub brand or enclosure. I could always call out a punch amp when i got into someones car. These were also the days when everybody was trying to be the loudest. Sound quality was not what anybody was going for.
i hear you on technology. i was a techie for 20yrs (all over the field - manufacturing, R&D, marketing, facilities/construction, etc) and many times i felt we were introducing new products and moving forward for no real benefit to the end user. however, that being said it is fairly impressive that i can switch my HU speaker output to line level by changing a few numbers.
You pretty much summed up the direction the automotive business is currently heading in. Its senseless. They have a bad problem with taking what is not broken, and breaking it, while selling it that “this is what the consumer wants” consumer thinks its great.... until that 10” integrated head unit and A/C seats fail 9 months out of warranty. The people that fight for and support the creature comfort andvancements are not the ones who pay them off and drive them until the wheels fall off. They are the ones making a buck twentyfive a year, that trade in and out every 2-3 years. Not the average american. Working at different dealerships every day, i am seeing more and more newer out of warranty vehicles sitting behind the service centers waiting on the mechanics lean to process. The cost of repairs have become literally absurd, and ALOT of people cant afford the repairs on a newer “luxury” vehicle, cant get financed for the repair, and they instead just choose to walk away. The bank either comes and gets it, or the dealerships auction them off. Its crazy here in houston.
i was working on cars before i could drive (31 yrs ago) and i could fix most vehicles/repair as everything was simple. beyond light stuff (shocks, mounting accessories, filters, etc) i wouldn't even dare to try to repair or "tinker" with this truck.
The first time i bagged and body dropped a mini truck that was still under warranty, i wasn't as apprehensive as i am about adding a frigging amplifier to my new truck.
 
  #74  
Old 02-02-2019, 12:21 PM
Imadentguy
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Oh man i tried to reply under your quotes and it didnt work out so well....
 
  #75  
Old 02-02-2019, 12:53 PM
Imadentguy
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Originally Posted by undl8r View Post
BTW I think you have another option. A company called ADS/Maestro make few interface harnesses and a controller that lets you retain sync (they told me rear camera functions too if you have it, but i would double check - i've called them directly with questions and they are very helpful) and ties sync into an aftermarket head unit (requires a new faceplate, in link below). i did this system on a 2012 (minus face plate since i was double din). it is ~$300 for the interface and plate. i was exploring this option but wound up getting a STX with 360 camera and am required to stick with stock unit for functionality. for something like this i would go through a shop, prices are usually same as Crutchfield. You could try on your own but it is a little involved and you have to program the module with their software but its is very intuitive. The ADS system also ties into OBD and provides a screen of gauges/sensor readings.

https://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearch/maestro.html
Yes sir i started looking at AM headunits last night. I was doing some reading on the integration kits. I am just trying to get more than what i currently have, while remaining frugal. Odds are my truck will be totaled, or atleast, beat to death by a hailstorm while traveling the country working hail storms, so im really not looking to dump a bunch of money into it. When it gets beat up i will just fix it and then dump it. I learned years ago to spend money on my toys, not the daily driver. I have lost my aaaassss over the years by turning my drivers into toys and then either selling or trading for something new.
 

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