Car audio guys - Page 4 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Notices
2017+ Super Duty The 2017+ Ford F250, F350, F450 and F550 Super Duty Pickup and Chassis Cab

Car audio guys

 
  #46  
Old 01-26-2019, 11:26 PM
undl8r
undl8r is online now
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Taos
Posts: 142
undl8r is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by Imadentguy View Post
I am now second guessing the kicker key. It only runs in 4 channel and i have a regular cab which only has a front sound stage. Im also not sure how the key will play along with the center channel. I did a little research and kicker says to disconnect the center channel while running the set up and then either leave the center channel disconnected, or re connect, but i feel like it may battle the benifits of the key with its alignment capabilities. I am leaning towards the alpine 445u run in 2 channel, or the kicker 42 pxa3004 run in 2 channel. The only thing is the kicker puts out 150 rms at 4 ohm in 2 channel, and im not sure what the oem speaker wiring can be run at. Im not interested in running new wires. I also wanted to let undul8r know that i played with my factory head unit tonight listening to driving tecno with a strong bass line. With the volume up 3/4 i could not hear any drop off of the bass frequency. If it does it is minuscule. Nothing like gm and their head units. The signal actually sounds pretty clean.... just needs more power.
my recollection in talking with cutchfield is about 50W RMS @4 Ohms max can be run through factory wiring.

i'm still messing with Kicker and have tried amp sub gain lower with DSP output gain higher and varying the x-overs, maybe slightly better range but doesn't have any real punch but it does sound good, especially with bass at normal levels. i'm going to try adjusting a little more, maybe recalibrate with 3/4 vol on HU. next up is DSP bypass and try to set up with amp (less adjustments but still have x-over for all 5 channels). in the end i may split front channel and send one signal through the front channel on the DSP and another signal to the sub input on the amp.

i had the Alpine 445U and it is a great little amp (still have it sitting in a box in storage).
 
  #47  
Old 01-27-2019, 03:50 PM
Imadentguy
Imadentguy is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Katy Texas
Posts: 559
Imadentguy is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by undl8r View Post
my recollection in talking with cutchfield is about 50W RMS @4 Ohms max can be run through factory wiring.

i'm still messing with Kicker and have tried amp sub gain lower with DSP output gain higher and varying the x-overs, maybe slightly better range but doesn't have any real punch but it does sound good, especially with bass at normal levels. i'm going to try adjusting a little more, maybe recalibrate with 3/4 vol on HU. next up is DSP bypass and try to set up with amp (less adjustments but still have x-over for all 5 channels). in the end i may split front channel and send one signal through the front channel on the DSP and another signal to the sub input on the amp.

i had the Alpine 445U and it is a great little amp (still have it sitting in a box in storage).
Hmmm brutal. Really not looking to run new wires. If i do that i may aswell just get crazy with it. So did you go ahead and run new wires through your doors? Do you happen to know what the rms output is on the OEM HU? Thanks man.
 
  #48  
Old 01-27-2019, 04:05 PM
undl8r
undl8r is online now
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Taos
Posts: 142
undl8r is starting off with a positive reputation.
my JBL amp is rated at 45W RMS and 500W (max, i think) sub channel and kept all door speaker wire stock. did the same for door speakers on the alpine on a previous truck. no problems. i don't know the RMS on the HU but stock speakers are stamped at 25W so I'd guess around 17W.

one other comment - 45W for me at least is more than enough. i do like my music loud and i've never been left wanting more (from non-sub speakers)
 
  #49  
Old 01-27-2019, 06:09 PM
Imadentguy
Imadentguy is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Katy Texas
Posts: 559
Imadentguy is starting off with a positive reputation.
Cool man thanks!
 
  #50  
Old 01-27-2019, 08:44 PM
Imadentguy
Imadentguy is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Katy Texas
Posts: 559
Imadentguy is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by undl8r View Post
my JBL amp is rated at 45W RMS and 500W (max, i think) sub channel and kept all door speaker wire stock. did the same for door speakers on the alpine on a previous truck. no problems. i don't know the RMS on the HU but stock speakers are stamped at 25W so I'd guess around 17W.

one other comment - 45W for me at least is more than enough. i do like my music loud and i've never been left wanting more (from non-sub speakers)
Did your door chimes become unbearaby loud after amplifying your door speakers?
 
  #51  
Old 01-27-2019, 09:06 PM
undl8r
undl8r is online now
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Taos
Posts: 142
undl8r is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by Imadentguy View Post

Did your door chimes become unbearaby loud after amplifying your door speakers?
they don't play through the radio - chime comes from somewhere in the dash near the steering column i think.. i can't remember if they ever played through the radio. they did on my '17 F150 XLT with same system but no modifications.
 
  #52  
Old 01-27-2019, 09:08 PM
JackalAR
JackalAR is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 162
JackalAR is starting off with a positive reputation.
My 2017 F-250 STX w/ 7 speaker SYNC is meh at best and my loaner 2018 F-150 XL w/ 6 speaker SYNC 3 sounds pretty good. Not sure what to do with my Super Duty yet, but think I will start with some of Digital Designs most efficient 6x9 components coaxials up front first. They are very inexpensive too. I have a DD 9512 sitting around, but it needs a 2.5+ ft^3 box and my 1,432w monoblock. I just don't want to have to remove the smaller of the two rear seats this time, or really even give up the cargo room under the seats. Hmmmm....maybe I could build something to sit in there with the seat folded up and use some quick connects or something for quick and easy removal.

I also have an 800w monoblock if I end up downsizing, but I need to get the doors sounding worth a damn before moving on to bass. Trying not to let my inner teenager get too carried away for once.
 
  #53  
Old 01-27-2019, 09:39 PM
undl8r
undl8r is online now
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Taos
Posts: 142
undl8r is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by JackalAR View Post
My 2017 F-250 STX w/ 7 speaker SYNC is meh at best and my loaner 2018 F-150 XL w/ 6 speaker SYNC 3 sounds pretty good. Not sure what to do with my Super Duty yet, but think I will start with some of Digital Designs most efficient 6x9 components up front first. They are very inexpensive too. I have a DD 9512 sitting around, but it needs a 2.5+ ft^3 box and my 1,432w monoblock. I just don't want to have to remove the smaller of the two rear seats this time, or really even give up the cargo room under the seats. Hmmmm....maybe I could build something to sit in there with the seat folded up and use some quick connects or something for quick and easy removal.

I also have an 800w monoblock if I end up downsizing, but I need to get the doors sounding worth a damn before moving on to bass. Trying not to let my inner teenager get too carried away for once.
i found these brackets that move the rear seat up 2 1/2" and i believe up to 3.5" forward, depending on model. might help for your sub box.

LMI Welding Quality Metal Fabrication
 
  #54  
Old 01-27-2019, 11:16 PM
Mkos1980
Mkos1980 is online now
Senior User
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 409
Mkos1980 is starting off with a positive reputation.
There's probably an answer somewhere but does anybody know if there is a direct replacement sub for the B&O unit? I believe it's an 8in.
 
  #55  
Old 01-27-2019, 11:35 PM
Imadentguy
Imadentguy is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Katy Texas
Posts: 559
Imadentguy is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by undl8r View Post
they don't play through the radio - chime comes from somewhere in the dash near the steering column i think.. i can't remember if they ever played through the radio. they did on my '17 F150 XLT with same system but no modifications.
I was playing with it this evening and im 99.999% mine for sure chime through the door speakers.... whats up with that? Ill have another listen at it tomorrow morning to make sure.
 
  #56  
Old 01-28-2019, 08:08 AM
undl8r
undl8r is online now
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Taos
Posts: 142
undl8r is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by Imadentguy View Post

I was playing with it this evening and im 99.999% mine for sure chime through the door speakers.... whats up with that? Ill have another listen at it tomorrow morning to make sure.
i vaguely remember reading in some post (not even sure it was this forum) that if the speakers are not directly connected to the HU the module senses this (different resistance than door speakers, i think was the explanation) and switches to the other chime (in dashboard). i really didn't pay much attention to the chime when i installed my amp on my F250.
 
  #57  
Old 01-28-2019, 09:29 AM
Imadentguy
Imadentguy is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Katy Texas
Posts: 559
Imadentguy is starting off with a positive reputation.
Man i hope thats the case, because my buddy has a 15 silverado that will blow you out the side window if he puts it in drive and someone dosent have their seat belt on. I believe he is running 75w to his doors.
 
  #58  
Old 01-28-2019, 09:58 AM
undl8r
undl8r is online now
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Taos
Posts: 142
undl8r is starting off with a positive reputation.
Sounds like that would be good new federal regulation. fasten your seat belt or get blown out your side window.

For Sync 3 system I am fairly certain that's the case. When my HU would boot up or shut down my F150 speaker chime would switch to the dashboard.

you can shut off the seatbelt and door ajar warning with Forscan (and do a lot of other stuff) . here's a spread sheet made by the F150 guys (and i think there's a SD one floating around but most is the same) that gives you new settings for Forscan. (go to 'Common' sheet - first sheet in file, lines 62-65). if you haven't explored Forscan you should. i've added features (keypad and soon hill descent control) for very little $ (HDC was a $25 switch).

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...#gid=815852466
 
  #59  
Old 01-28-2019, 12:14 PM
undl8r
undl8r is online now
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Taos
Posts: 142
undl8r is starting off with a positive reputation.
found this online, according to there author you can change your speaker output to line level and remove OEM processing. also talks about "open speaker detection". its in a Fusion forum but according to the F150 website should work. i'm going to try it later and does require Forscan.

Variable Line Level Preamp Outputs From ACM (Factory Radio) For Amplifier Upgrades

It is possible to reprogram the ACM to send out a flat line level out (approx 4 Volt preamp out) for sound out of the existing speaker wiring instead of regular high levels that are sound processed by the factory radio and/or Sony DSP (if equipped). This makes using an aftermarket Amp way easier as it will have the pure unmodified sound as if using regular RCA Pre-Amp Outs. Also makes for better audio tuning as the bass won't be cut off as the volume goes up on the stock configuration. This mod works on all Fusion ACM's, with or without MyFord Touch / Sony. Also allows for removal / disconnection of the Sony Amplifier in the back of the trunk.

This mod can be done with FORScan w/ODBLink MX Adapter:
727-01-01 xx59 F8x8 xxxx - Enables Line Level with Optional Subwoofer (Aux 1) and Front Center (Aux 2) Outputs Enabled*
727-01-02 00xx - Disables Factory EQ Processing
(ACM As-Built)

* This string breaks down as follows:
5 = Variable Line Level Audio Output
9 = Enable External Subwoofer (AUX 1) and Internal Amplifier (Aux 2) (0 - Disable)
F = Disable Open Speaker Circuit Detection (w/Active FM Radio Antenna - Otherwise use a D)
8 = Front Tweeters Present
8 = Aux 1 Type: Mono Subwoofer and Aux 2 Type: Front Center
 
  #60  
Old 01-28-2019, 01:42 PM
undl8r
undl8r is online now
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Taos
Posts: 142
undl8r is starting off with a positive reputation.
Edit: steering wheel voice button returned to functionality after truck sat for 30min.
​​​​​​​

one step forward, two back......

the good:
changed Forscan settings to disable factory processing and provide line levels. there are a few different settings floating around for Forscon so i did these two changes first. sound is now nearly perfect. doors sound great (did have cut out <180MHz frequencies for rear and then everything just sounds so clear). sub is kicking more through all frequencies (x-over is now at 120MHz) hits better but not quite at my ideal - i think i have some more leeway but no distortion like before.

the bad:
for some reason my sync voice button on my steering wheel has stopped working. i did reset everything to stock (two lines of Forscan) but it didn't come back. going to search through forums and/or maybe post a please help thread.

chimes are now playing through the audio speakers. however, even at high volume the chime volume level isn't bad.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us About Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.