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  #16  
Old 01-23-2019, 11:57 PM
Imadentguy
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Never mind i realize they are wired inline after looking at the pin out. Will the door chimes be out of control if an amp is added?
 
  #17  
Old 01-24-2019, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Imadentguy View Post
Never mind i realize they are wired inline after looking at the pin out. Will the door chimes be out of control if an amp is added?
Some people report that the door chimes will transfer to your IPC (dash cluster), some report still getting them through the stereo. I believe it depends on the ohms of your speakers as the system will report that a speaker is out or not functional if it changes too far from the stockers.

They should all work still, they just might not come from the stereo.
 
  #18  
Old 01-25-2019, 02:50 PM
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2019 F250 Lariat with B&O system...replacing front speakers with JL Audio C2-690tx 3 way 6x9 speakers. Turns out I need some adapters, they should be here soon. What wire is positive? There is an all white and a white w/black stripe going to the stock speaker.

 
  #19  
Old 01-25-2019, 03:57 PM
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When you get your adapters it will snap in to your connector and the other half of the connector has the larger and small spade connector for the speakers so its foolproof.
 
  #20  
Old 01-25-2019, 04:08 PM
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Thanks, but that's not the kind of adapter I ordrred. What I ordered is to mount the speaker in the door. I don't mind cutting the ends of the stock wiring off.
 
  #21  
Old 01-25-2019, 04:37 PM
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a voltmeter can easily tell you. also, Metra makes a connector that plugs right into the factory fitting and into the aftermarket speaker terminals. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120725...g-Harness.html might be cheaper other places online.
 
  #22  
Old 01-25-2019, 04:52 PM
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Thanks for that link, that is a slick way to do it. Since I don't mind modifying the harness I'll go that route.

And duh....not sure why I didn't just grab a meter when I had the door apart.
 
  #23  
Old 01-25-2019, 05:04 PM
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If you get the PAC Audio wiring harness and run and amp from that you'll get your chimes. Interesting thing I learned, when I disabled all of the speakers including the center, the Sony head unit played the sounds with no speakers, unless I'm going crazy.
 
  #24  
Old 01-25-2019, 08:03 PM
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Do these oem head units have a decent sound without a sound processor? Like do they have a bunch of noise after amplified? Or crazy crossovers as you turn the volume up? Thanks
 
  #25  
Old 01-25-2019, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Imadentguy View Post
Do these oem head units have a decent sound without a sound processor? Like do they have a bunch of noise after amplified? Or crazy crossovers as you turn the volume up? Thanks
I'm starting to ask myself the same question. This kicker is kicking my but trying to dial it in and it does seem significantly better than stock but bass is having a problem, mainly over the top on a few songs so much so, i can't dial it back. I'm going to put a bypass directly to my amp from HU, tune it as best i can and listen for a while to see if the bass acts normal and overall sound quality.
 
  #26  
Old 01-25-2019, 09:20 PM
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Like the bass is too “boomy” or sloppy?
 
  #27  
Old 01-25-2019, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jimson View Post
If you get the PAC Audio wiring harness and run and amp from that you'll get your chimes. Interesting thing I learned, when I disabled all of the speakers including the center, the Sony head unit played the sounds with no speakers, unless I'm going crazy.
I used the Amp Pro4 optical directly into my new amps and it works perfectly
 
  #28  
Old 01-25-2019, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Imadentguy View Post
Like the bass is too “boomy” or sloppy?
it's actually very tight and very loud (starts to rattle the entire interior a little) and I can't get it to normal level, even by turning the bass down on HU and kicker control ****. if i set it lower then other music looses the bass punch. However, I have essentially three sub pathways - two on kicker DSP (created at DSP from front and switchable and bass boost control with remote) or one using my JBL amp to create a sub channel out of my front channels with controls for gain, simple crossover, and a boost setting. While the kicker seems to deliver a tighter bass signal the JBL bass signal has more punch but sounds slightly more muddy. The best bass signal I have obtained so far is on the kicker with my sub crossover set around 70Hz and 24dB/OCT slope (this is decrease in signal per octave after the cross over point - e.g. a x-over set point of 80Hz - 1 Octave above is 160Hz, so at 160Hz the signal should be 24dB less than at 80Hz). But it just doesn't seem to have punch that i've felt using the amp to generate a sub channel - but it's been limited experience. I'm going to try listening HU to amp for a bit and see if the bass is better.
 
  #29  
Old 01-25-2019, 10:34 PM
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Is your sub in a custom built box or is it a pre fab? Thats odd that your bass **** makes no difference......have you tried playing with the bass boost? Is the gain for the sub channel set appropriately?
 
  #30  
Old 01-26-2019, 09:25 AM
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sub is a prefab 10" Pioneer, i chose it mainly for the fitment behind the rear seat.

i don't know if my sub gain is set correctly and have tried to set it up based on what i've read and discussed. problem is i have multiple gain settings on both the DSP and amp and most info I read deals with just one gain setting. My signal is speaker level and goes into the DSP with input gain set to ~1 (out of 10) - did this to minimize noise and allow the DSP to handle the higher signal (no setting on DSP for speaker level and this was suggest by kicker).

Next I set the sub output gains on amp to ~6, set crossover to ~65-100Hz on DSP, turned radio to 2/3 vol (with varying bass music) and then turned up output gain on DSP to where I hear distortion and back off gain by about ~1 (in end wound up with gain around 4 on DSP sub channel output). To fine tune I went back and forth between DSP crossover and output gain (small tweaks) until I got clarity and tightness.

using the crossovers helped with muddiness and are also used for door speakers (picking up where bass drops off).

appreciate any suggestions. not sure how to get the sub to have more kick (like when it's on the amp created channel - maybe it's possible that the processing takes it away) or get my gain set so I can enjoy med/normal bass music with some kick while not having heavy bass music go over the top (when this happens remote control bass **** seems ineffective and lowering bass on HU does help but not enough).

thx
Josh
 

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