About to change all the breaks and rotors - Any tips?
#31
01-23-2019, 08:05 AM
#35
01-23-2019, 03:37 PM
One thing that may be worth mentioning, use your c clamp to compress the piston with the caliper still on the vehicle before you try to remove the caliper off the carrier. There are upsets on the back of the pads that can score your pistons if you try to pry it off with it still tight on the pads.
hopefully that description makes sense.
hopefully that description makes sense.
#37
01-23-2019, 03:51 PM
to compress them all the way yes, but it is a slider caliper not a monobloc so you can put a big c clamp on the inner side of the caliper and the other side against say the pad in between the caliper forks and compress it just a bit, may be quarter inch. Will probably make a lot more sense when you start and cant get the caliper off for seemingly no reason.
#39
01-25-2019, 09:54 AM
Late but good info!
I’m right in the middle of doing this job on my 06’250 4x4.the rear rotor comes off separately from the parking brake stuff. You don’t have to touch the parking brakes to do the rotors pads etc. I found a great technique for removing the rear rotors (no BFH required). If you choose you can use a flat head to release the star wheel on the parking brakes (but the technique listed next will get them loose regardless) get yourself two 5/8 x 3”x11(thread) grade 8 bolts and matching nuts. Once you get the calipers off. Put the bolts through the caliper mount bracket toward the rotor and thread the nuts on. Use a 21mm (I believe) socket and a large crescent wrench to hold the nut. As you thread the bolts in they will contact the rotor and push it loose (you will hear an audible pop as the parking break shoes separate from the inside of the rotor/drum) also leave a lug not on a few turns to catch the rotor of it pops off hard. Tighten them a little each until it’s loose enough to use the BFH to tap back and forth until it’s all the way loose. Side note: if you are reusing the rotors put an old brake pad or small piece of steel between the bolt and the rotor to protect it from the bolt gouging into it.
Also I would forget going any deeper than the parking brake stuff. The 250’s have a floating rear axle and you have to remove the axels and hub to do the bearings. So unless you are sure there’s an issue with the bearings/seals and are pretty competent with your mechanical skills, I wouldn’t dig any deeper.
hope this helps!
Also I would forget going any deeper than the parking brake stuff. The 250’s have a floating rear axle and you have to remove the axels and hub to do the bearings. So unless you are sure there’s an issue with the bearings/seals and are pretty competent with your mechanical skills, I wouldn’t dig any deeper.
hope this helps!
#41
01-28-2019, 10:23 AM
Yes in that there is an inner/ outer bearings and races. But that’s where the similarities stop. The floating rear axles are different than any front end design you’ve likely encountered. And there are specific steps and tools needed to properly perform this job.
Not to say it can’t be don’t by someone mechanically inclined who is willing to do his homework. But I’d start watching YouTube videos of replacing the rear bearings and seals so you get an idea what you’re taking on. I watched a great video series (4 parts in all) if I can find the link again I’ll post it below. He goes through the entire process brakes and all. Best of luck, post an updat later on and let us know how you made out.
Not to say it can’t be don’t by someone mechanically inclined who is willing to do his homework. But I’d start watching YouTube videos of replacing the rear bearings and seals so you get an idea what you’re taking on. I watched a great video series (4 parts in all) if I can find the link again I’ll post it below. He goes through the entire process brakes and all. Best of luck, post an updat later on and let us know how you made out.
