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You will more than likely have to beat the rear rotors off with said BFH. I don't think any disassembly is required, just beat off, slide on.

 

 

I can vouch for these (I have a milwaukee). Battery operated impact drivers have come along way since the days of the dewalt 14V jubs, that could barely screw on a nut.

 

Do pay close attention to the caliper bracket slider pins and boots, 2 per caliper. They are the #1 reason for brake caliper seizure. They should be checked/greased at each tire rotation. Same ****ty design hasn't changed in many years. Inspect the caliper piston seals too.

Do a full system bleed and replace the rubber caliper lines. Always support caliper never let it dangle on the hose. Buy a power bleeder. Motive tools makes a good unit. You'll need the Ford F series master cylinder adaptor. Buy high-quality brake fluid. Never use old or open fluid. Change brake fluid every 2-3 years or 30-40K miles. It will keep the system in good health for many miles.

Make sure the groove in the caliper brackets where the stainless anti-rattle springs insert into are very clean. Coat both sides of the springs with brake silicone grease. Pre-fit the pads to make sure they float between these spring clips. File the ears on the pads to get a smooth fit. Do one caliper at a time so you see how the spring clips orient. These springs are finicky and need proper placement to be effective.

Anti-seize is your friend for everything. Especially the back and front mounting surfaces of the rotors. I coat everything for hassle-free future removal.

If you live in the salt belt be prepared to replace the rear brake backing plates and the whole E-brake set up(shoes and hardware). At minimum inspect the E-brake anchor pins. they like to rot through the backing plate which allows the E-brake shoes and hardware to float around behind the rotor and grind up rather efficiently. Again another legacy **** design.

Air tools are a must to remove things IMO. Then hand tools to tighten unless you're extremely experienced with the feel of an air tool. I'll put things together loosely with air tools than hand tool or TQ wrench the rest of the way.

Be sure to oil the lug nut washers before installing and torquing the wheels down.

If you replace front wheel bearings inspect the outer U-joints steering linkage and ball joints. Chances are good something there is worn out. Only purchase USA Timken and Spicer parts unless you like replacing things twice. May the MAWs commence...(might as well)

You're in for a whole bunch of fun and at least 4 trips to the parts store and a new vocabulary of cuss words. Do let us know things went.
Dont forget to keep the fridge stocked with plenty of working fluid.

 

I've never had to do the rear brakes on mine. Do the caliper pistons push straight in on the rears or do they rotate in?

 

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The rear caliper pistons push in. Cars with pistons that rotate can be a pain in the rear.

 

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@Craeshe I ran a Milwaukee Fuel impact driver like that for a while. Worked to about 80ft-lbs, use what you have.

A c clamp will be fine on the calipers, wire brush for cleaning and some anti-seize for where the rotor meets the hub. I use the thread locker on the bolts too. Chilton manual is what I use for torque specs too.