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About to change all the breaks and rotors - Any tips?

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About to change all the breaks and rotors - Any tips?

 
  #16  
Old 01-19-2019, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by mattymax View Post
I still haven't hooked up my new 60 gallon Ingersol rand and I also need brakes soon. I think the job can be done with hands tools. Some of those front bolts are pretty stubborn though

matt
I am now also planning to change out all the wheel bearings when i do it. Since i will be down there anyways, it makes sense. My truck is at 143,000 miles. A good point to change them as well.
 
  #17  
Old 01-19-2019, 11:30 AM
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You will more than likely have to beat the rear rotors off with said BFH. I don't think any disassembly is required, just beat off, slide on.
 
  #18  
Old 01-19-2019, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Craeshe View Post
Just got a new 30 gallon air tank! Haven't bought any air tools yet though. Might convince the misses that I 'need' them for this job...
First, do you have any Dewalt or Milwaukee battery operated tools? The new 20V Dewalt and IIRC 18V Milwaukee impacts are absolute BEASTS. The benefits of battery operated is you can use them anywhere. I throw mine in the truck for emergency tire changes etc and in the Jeep in case we break something on a trail. Often times you can buy them off CL for a fraction of newÖsometimes they are new. Once you decide on brand you like then you only need 1 or 2 batteries from that point you only have to buy the bare toolsÖ which are substantially cheaper. After all what do you need two batteries and a charger for every single tool you have?

If youíre set on air tools, Iíve had good luck with HF Earthquake impacts. However since Iíve invested in the DeWalt battery tools I rarely if ever need my air tools.


https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899B-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WJA1J68/ref=pd_cp_469_2?pd_rd_w=RWqH7&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=0NADE6PHS7EYPSSZQEMR&pd_rd_r=29061398-1c0c-11e9-a511-a7670696f4e6&pd_rd_wg=z5P2X&pd_rd_i=B00WJA1J68&psc=1&refRID=0NADE6PHS7EYPSSZQEMR https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899B-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WJA1J68/ref=pd_cp_469_2?pd_rd_w=RWqH7&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=0NADE6PHS7EYPSSZQEMR&pd_rd_r=29061398-1c0c-11e9-a511-a7670696f4e6&pd_rd_wg=z5P2X&pd_rd_i=B00WJA1J68&psc=1&refRID=0NADE6PHS7EYPSSZQEMR
 
  #19  
Old 01-19-2019, 03:00 PM
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I can vouch for these (I have a milwaukee). Battery operated impact drivers have come along way since the days of the dewalt 14V jubs, that could barely screw on a nut.
 
  #20  
Old 01-19-2019, 08:05 PM
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Do pay close attention to the caliper bracket slider pins and boots, 2 per caliper. They are the #1 reason for brake caliper seizure. They should be checked/greased at each tire rotation. Same ****ty design hasn't changed in many years. Inspect the caliper piston seals too.

Do a full system bleed and replace the rubber caliper lines. Always support caliper never let it dangle on the hose. Buy a power bleeder. Motive tools makes a good unit. You'll need the Ford F series master cylinder adaptor. Buy high-quality brake fluid. Never use old or open fluid. Change brake fluid every 2-3 years or 30-40K miles. It will keep the system in good health for many miles.

Make sure the groove in the caliper brackets where the stainless anti-rattle springs insert into are very clean. Coat both sides of the springs with brake silicone grease. Pre-fit the pads to make sure they float between these spring clips. File the ears on the pads to get a smooth fit. Do one caliper at a time so you see how the spring clips orient. These springs are finicky and need proper placement to be effective.

Anti-seize is your friend for everything. Especially the back and front mounting surfaces of the rotors. I coat everything for hassle-free future removal.

If you live in the salt belt be prepared to replace the rear brake backing plates and the whole E-brake set up(shoes and hardware). At minimum inspect the E-brake anchor pins. they like to rot through the backing plate which allows the E-brake shoes and hardware to float around behind the rotor and grind up rather efficiently. Again another legacy **** design.

Air tools are a must to remove things IMO. Then hand tools to tighten unless you're extremely experienced with the feel of an air tool. I'll put things together loosely with air tools than hand tool or TQ wrench the rest of the way.

Be sure to oil the lug nut washers before installing and torquing the wheels down.

If you replace front wheel bearings inspect the outer U-joints steering linkage and ball joints. Chances are good something there is worn out. Only purchase USA Timken and Spicer parts unless you like replacing things twice. May the MAWs commence...(might as well)

You're in for a whole bunch of fun and at least 4 trips to the parts store and a new vocabulary of cuss words. Do let us know things went.
Dont forget to keep the fridge stocked with plenty of working fluid.
 
  #21  
Old 01-19-2019, 10:16 PM
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I've never had to do the rear brakes on mine. Do the caliper pistons push straight in on the rears or do they rotate in?
 
  #22  
Old 01-20-2019, 02:07 AM
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Originally Posted by super 6.8 View Post
I've never had to do the rear brakes on mine. Do the caliper pistons push straight in on the rears or do they rotate in?
Good question! My mustang needed the special rotate tool, does this truck Pistons need it as well or just the c clamp?
 
  #23  
Old 01-20-2019, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselBeast01 View Post
I can vouch for these (I have a milwaukee). Battery operated impact drivers have come along way since the days of the dewalt 14V jubs, that could barely screw on a nut.
+1 on this. I have a 20v dewalt. I donít even touch the air gun anymore.
 
  #24  
Old 01-20-2019, 09:40 AM
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milwaukee and makita are beasts and I need mine was all I was thinking when I had a friends dewalt in my hand the other day!!!! Then The breaker bar was broken out lol

be sure to clean the new rotors a brake parts cleaner. If itís your first time take some photos
 
  #25  
Old 01-20-2019, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by super 6.8 View Post
I've never had to do the rear brakes on mine. Do the caliper pistons push straight in on the rears or do they rotate in?
The rear caliper pistons push in. Cars with pistons that rotate can be a pain in the rear.
 
  #26  
Old 01-20-2019, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by FractureCritical View Post


+1 on this. I have a 20v dewalt. I donít even touch the air gun anymore.
I have this one with two batteries ...is this just as good as any air tools? Not a big 'tool' guy.



 
  #27  
Old 01-20-2019, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Craeshe View Post
I have this one with two batteries ...is this just as good as any air tools? Not a big 'tool' guy.
Thatís an impact driver not an impact wrench significant difference in ability to apply torque.
 
  #28  
Old 01-21-2019, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Colorado350 View Post

Thatís an impact driver not an impact wrench significant difference in ability to apply torque.
Gotcha, thank you.
 
  #29  
Old 01-21-2019, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Craeshe View Post
Gotcha, thank you.
ĎIf youíre near Colorado Springs youíre welcome to borrow my Dewalt...
 
  #30  
Old 01-21-2019, 02:44 PM
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Craeshe I ran a Milwaukee Fuel impact driver like that for a while. Worked to about 80ft-lbs, use what you have.

A c clamp will be fine on the calipers, wire brush for cleaning and some anti-seize for where the rotor meets the hub. I use the thread locker on the bolts too. Chilton manual is what I use for torque specs too.
 

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