97 OBS F450. I just replaced the valve covers, upgrading to the newer Super Duty style, and swapped out the glow plugs. Got a little oil in the plug holes, but only on 2 or 3 holes. After I got it back together, it smokes blue. Nothing at idle, a lot at high rpm. Any ideas?I'll double check my wiring, but I swore I had it.

 

How much have you driven it since the repairs? It could just be oil pushed out into the exhaust that hasn't burn off yet.

 

About a mile total on a completely heated engine. Seems to be missing some power as well. I may have botched my wiring when soldering the SD pigtails. Anyone have color codes for the OBS injector wiring? I followed the diagram on this post, but I don't see the {Tan/Yellow} wire; front driver side command wire.
https://www.powerstrokenation.com/fo...how-i-did.html

 

You can ohm out the wires with this.

 

That's got her. I had #5 and #7 wired backwards. I OHM tested from the smaller square connector on the driver-side fender, but I needed those IDM pin numbers, thanks to faded wire colors. Really appreciate the help, bud.
Actually, she smokes pretty bad at idle. Wiring is right, now. No power-loss, fluids are fine, and idle is mostly fine. Close one door, and another opens.

 

blue smoke is usually turbo seals unless you lost a cylinder for some reason

Have a scanner to do a CCT?

How much blow by do you have? will oil cap blow off if put on upside down at idle or 2k RPM?

 

When I lost a cylinder I had white smoke.

 

Check the connections to the GP's inside the valve cover. You can just ohm them out without taking the valve cover off again. Why do I say this, happened to me and I swore the #8 glow plug was connected internally twice. It's a big dark hole back there and turns out it wasn't and the ohm test verified it. Third try I got it. These trucks will smoke out a small parking lot with just one bad GP connection, especially when cold.

 

Appreciate the replys. Here's what I got for ya. Also, I don't think the smoke is blue. It's more of a white/grey. Very hazy; Stays in the air for a long time.
-Absolutely no oil cap movement. The cap actually get sucked on at 2k rpm. Just the usual 'choo-choo' steam.
-No tester for the injectors. I did unplug each one with the truck running for a crude test. Only 2 injectors dramatically changed the idle.
-The old injector connects had 1 or 2 broken pins, I think they were glowplugs. They were coated in oil, hence the gasket swap. I may have resurrected a dead injector in the process.
-Ordered another fuel filter. It doesn't look horrible, but it's the one I used after a rust/water issue I had awhile back. It had a few sips of rust, but I drain the bottom of the fuel bowl fairly often. Until I know my tank is cleaner than a whistle.
-Ohm tested all injectors and GPs. We're golden, Ponyboy

I'm leaning toward an injector issue. I have no mileage info on them, but it had I think 4ish newer-looking Alliant Power injectors.(I forgot the amount) But I am still waiting on my fuel filter, though. How accurate is the unplug injector while idle test? Or did I kill an injector or 4 by doing it?

 

unplugging injectors can maybe fine on that is bad.
I have two that don't do much to idle on pass side unless both unplugged.

IDM only shuts down a bank on a short, not an open that I am aware of.

The fuel filter prevent water getting into the injectors but if the filter failed then you could have more issues with the rust and water in the injectors

 

You are correct, if a short on the high side of a bank (the 110 - 120) volt feed wire from the IDM it will shut down the entire bank to protect itself.