Sooooo.... Been working on the X for three days trying to replace exhaust manifold studs..

Day one: put on jack stands removed tires, inner fend liners, shocks and shock mounts and soak all the studs in PB. Also learned that front shocks were toast.

Day two: remove two studs on passenger side and three on driver side. That leaves two bolts/studs on each side. the others where already broken off. The second and third bottom from the front are still on each side. The ones that have almost no access because of the frame support for the motor. The nuts are rusted and there is no way to pound on a slightly smaller socket.

Day three: take the dremel with the wand attachment and am able to get the the third bottom nut on driver side off. Also was able to get the third bottom nut on passenger side about 2/3 cut using dremel right angle head before the gears in the head striped. Went to buy another and out of stock.... damn. I was able to pop the 2/3 cut nut off with an air chisel. That leaves me the second from front bottom on each side. The heads are rusted and I cannot get a socket to grab. For the life of me can't figure out how to get the dremel wand or anything else in there.

The crusty white pig is kicking my A$$. This is supposed to be the easy part. Haven't even started trying to remove the studs yet...... Anybody have any words of wisdom?

Also have the same thread in the Excursion forum.........

 

Dynamite?

I had to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the motor up. Pretty sure I used a small bottle jack on an oil pan bolt and just jack the motor up until it hit the firewall, taking care not to bend the tranny dipstick tube.

 

I didn't have to do them on my V10s but I did the right side on my 4.6, removed starter, completely removed motor mount, moved the A/C compressor forward and jacked the motor as high as I could. I only had 2 broken studs that I drilled out, and the rest I used a straight -and right angle air tool with a 3 in cutting wheels to cut one side of the nut off, they came off easy after that. I cleaned up the unbroken studs with a thread die and reused them along with Fel-Pro gasket because they are more forgiving than the Ford metal ones.

Denny

 

Try some high grit sand paper to see if you can get some of that rust off to get your sockets on? Also don't forget heat helps in removal

 

 

I use a small bottle jack and lift on one pan bolt if only lifting one side and a block of wood and jack on the pan as far forward as possible to lift both sides but be careful and stop when you meet resistance so you don't damage the pan.

Denny

 

Is there room for a nut breaker? I have some cheap ones from harbor freight and they have been a life saver a few times. They don't require much access either.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is an example.

 

 

You have all my respect for even attempting this.

All the pioneers on here that have done and documented it before me simply gave me the motivation to pay someone. I also don't have all the tools in my box I'd really need to do this right (specifically, a right angle drill and a welder).

I wasted a lot of cash in the process, but she purrs great now and I'm over the heartache from it.....kinda

 

Welding worked for me. I used flux core wire with the gas shield removed from the tip of the gun and wasn't afraid to turn up the heat, You need to penetrate the stud for the welds to hold. I was amazed there was no damage to the aluminum threads at all!

 

When I drilled mine out I drilled a pilot hole with a 1/8 bit after center punching it, the I used a left hand twist bit to open the hole up. The first stud came right out as soon as I started drilling with the left hand bit, the second one I had to drill out and then use a tap to remove the rest of the stud and clean up the treads, be sure to mark the depth on your bit with tape so you don't go to deep and take your time and keep it straight. I ended up cutting the left hand bit off to a stubby bit because my control arm bracket was in the way, don't be afraid to improvise.

Denny

 

This X 100. Or $900 which is what it cost me along with the rest of the exhaust mods the shop did.

 

 

damn.... broke a bit. The bit that broke is off is in a new 1/8 hole below the off center hole that I got from using the template. Was trying to split the stud so to speak so I could pick the pieces out.

I have welded on it twice with no luck. The stud left in the hole is crowded to the head. Tried running the drill bit in the larger hole and chipped the bit.

Also the back bottom stud on this same head can't be drilled. I have drilled on it for an hour. Going through 6 1/8" bits and maybe an 1/4" deep. This stud was busted off in head before I started. I wonder if someone put a hardened bolt in there.

I'll work on it tomorrow but I don't see how it can be fixed without removing the head

 

Well..... got the busted bit out. Will have to helicoil that hole but I'm ok with that.

Used a diamond bit that looks like a little hole saw.

Now on in to the hardened stud with a carbide bit.