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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

My 1st restoration

 
  #31  
Old 02-24-2019, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
How does the pure argon work when welding? They recommend a argon/Co2 mix when welding steel. Pure argon for aluminum.


I will be using a mix of argon /co I just put argon for short sorry to miss lead
 
  #32  
Old 02-24-2019, 08:56 PM
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My tailgate "FORD" letters are stickers from the factory...…..back in 1986.
 
  #33  
Old 02-25-2019, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
How does the pure argon work when welding? They recommend a argon/Co2 mix when welding steel. Pure argon for aluminum.
I am thinking it is a mix, think mine is, but we call it Argon as it is easy.

Looking good on the bed floor.
I can tell you it does not happen over night.
Trim a little at a time till it fits nice.
Once I had where the sides would bolt down, I got my carriage bolts / nuts / washers from McMaster Carr, I then worked the front cross member & step brackets.
All my cross members are from the style side bed as I had none I could use from the flare side. Only had the front & rear and they were rusted and could not be used.
Front cross member with repair on the left side.

Rear cross member

I think I removed the step brackets from what was left of the flare side front cross member. Then using sheet metal bolts and short pipe cut for spacers I bolted the brackets to the front style side cross member.



In the rear I think I drilled out some of the spot welds and used my plasma cutter to remove the style side rear pan. I also drilled out the stop welds on what was left of the flare side rear sill so I ended out with just the flare side flat panel with the bumper bracket cut outs and grafted that panel onto the style side bed.
As you can see the style side rear floor is longer and had to be trimmed to make the flare side panel fit right.


From the under side here you can see the flare side panel, the rear cross member of the style side with the bed bolt thru it and that other bracket I think was a brace for the lower rear bed side from the flare side. I kind of welded it all together to make it nice and strong.


Hope that helps some.
Dave ----
 
  #34  
Old 02-25-2019, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
I have a Lincoln SP-135 plus MIG with gas. I bought it to do sheet metal work on other project cars. The house I was in before now only had 110 volts in the garage.

It runs off 110 volts and using Argon mix for gas. I have used Co2 (it was free) for gas and it work better than Flux core (no gas) wire for welding but the Argon mix is the way to go.
For sheet metal work use the thinnest wire you can get, I forget what I have in mine with out checking the welder.

I also have a Speed Glass auto dark helmet, works great. I wear glasses but need to take them off so I can see when welding, my eyes don't focus too good up close and the reading part of my glasses does not work good either for welding. Yes I got issues LOL.
I should also let you know I have been trained to do body work back in the 70's from pulling dents to full paint jobs, my dad was a body man.

If you are looking for patch / replacement panels check out http://tabcoparts.com/ I used them for my sheet metal panels and they fit great.

Dave ----
on the floor pans do you just cut them to fit and butt weld them or do you flange them?
 
  #35  
Old 02-25-2019, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Skip1970 View Post
on the floor pans do you just cut them to fit and butt weld them or do you flange them?
I did neither.
But welding takes way to much work to get the panels to fit right then weld. If I was doing a 100 pint restore then maybe.

Flanging could be almost as bad as you need to flange 1 of the panels and that could be an issue, how do you flange a curve like on the floor pan where it goes from floor to toe board?
The tool I have to make flanges can not do that curve but maybe a bead roller could? And I don't have one.
Also everything needs to be trimmed to fit with in that flanged area.

I did an over lap of the panels by about 1 inch or so.
My flanging tool is also a hole punch and I punched holes around the outside of the panels about 1 inch apart. I used them to plug weld the panels at the overlap. They are all the little "spot welds" you see in the pictures. The cab mount / floor brace had holes drilled thru from when I drilled out the spot welds. I also used them holes to "spot weld" the brace & floor together.

The white spray paint looking stuff is weld thru primer to help protect the metal. I then did 2 coats of seam seal, 1st was with a caulk un and the 2nd was brush on both top & bottom.

Then 2 coats top & bottom of roll on bed liner.

Dave ----
 
  #36  
Old 02-25-2019, 05:04 PM
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You only need to flange the body panels on the outside body. Flanging helps reduce the amount of body filler needed to get it smooth.
 
  #37  
Old 03-02-2019, 07:38 PM
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I got started on the floor areas that was rusted it's not as bad as some others that I have seen. Not much done put a start. This area was about 3" by 8"
 
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  #38  
Old 03-03-2019, 07:55 AM
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Looking good keep it up.
What do you have next to do?
Looks like you are doing butt welds. On a flat part like that it is fairly easy but doing the full panels like I did and being it will be a nice driver I did not want to go thru that much work.
Dave ----
 
  #39  
Old 03-03-2019, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
Looking good keep it up.
What do you have next to do?
Looks like you are doing butt welds. On a flat part like that it is fairly easy but doing the full panels like I did and being it will be a nice driver I did not want to go thru that much work.
Dave ----



My floors are not that bad just holes here and there still have some areas to cut out and replace. Still working on bed to.
 
  #40  
Old 03-24-2019, 07:00 PM
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Got the bed where I want it just need to finish it up
 
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  #41  
Old 03-24-2019, 08:18 PM
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Floor looks good just like a factory floor
On the rear did you cut the floor short and use the flare side full rear sill to finish it off?
I used just the outer part of the rear sill as the inner part was in ruff shape and could not be used.
Dave ----
 
  #42  
Old 03-24-2019, 09:06 PM
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Yes I cut the Style side sill of and used the flare sill
 
  #43  
Old 03-24-2019, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
Floor looks good just like a factory floor
On the rear did you cut the floor short and use the flare side full rear sill to finish it off?
I used just the outer part of the rear sill as the inner part was in ruff shape and could not be used.
Dave ----


Yes I cut the Style side sill of and used the flare sill
 
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  #44  
Old 03-31-2019, 06:53 PM
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Just about got the bed together
 
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  #45  
Old 04-01-2019, 05:20 PM
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Looks good.
On the front cross member(s) it looks like you used the front one from the flare side and that is what the running boards brackets are bolted to is that right?
Then the next one back next to the flare side CM looks to be the style side CM. The SS CM does not look to have the bed bolts in it so they must be in the FS CM and if so you will need to make block to fit in between that CM so the CM does not crush when the bolts are tighten down.

I could not use my front CM as the only thing that I could use was the running board brackets. Because of that I had to use the front CM from the SS so no need of wood blocks, and had to figure a way to get the brackets in place.
Dave ----
 

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