July 2019 edit: After doing months of dipping my toe in the water and parts scrounging, I finally dove into the deep side of the pool.

Well after starting this thread, it's evolved into a full blown project

Original post: Doing research on adding an intercooler to my 1995 7.3 Van, I'm trying to use mostly factory parts (the only things I've purchased so far is a used 1998-99 ford spider and used aftermarket intercooler).

Will the oem Ford spider work with my '95's mechanical lift pump?

Clearing out the lifter valley of the oem Ford stuff, mechanical lift pump, fuel bowl (and it's integral regulator), from what I can tell gets really involved and expensive.

I need to retain my dual tanks and selector valve, which doesn't seem to accommodate the aftermarket regulator system fuel/air return. It can all be fixed with $$$ I guess, like $1500-$1800 to re-do the entire fuel system (Swamps, AirDogII, others), rig up a tank-to-tank transfer pump.

I've read about removing the entrained air bubbles, quieting down the idle, make the fuel pressure adjustable, all of the benefits from aftermaket systems, but a guy could really get carried away.

But I'm not after 450hp, just a modest intercooler upgrade, and cleaning up some of the valley leaks.

My 95 has a mechanical lift pump, which might be in the way of the using oem 1998 spider (I think Ford changed to the Bosch electric pump when they intercooled the 7.3) .

If the stock 1995 mechanical lift pump can not be used with the 1998-1999 oem spider, I'm hoping to buy a block off plate, and use a Bosch electric fuel pump from a 1999 and later 7.3 truck.

Do I really have to delete the fuel bowl?

Am I correct in saying that moving the filters and pump down to the frame rail requires an aftermarket return regulator set up?

What if I leave most of my 1995 fuel system stock, only replacing the 'in the way' mechanical lift pump with an electric one?

If I am stuck with replacing the mechanical pump with Bosch electric pump, do I need to regulate the fuel down in pressure and add a return leg?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

I think the van is the same enough as the pickup to tell you this. If you for sure have an early 99 spider (has the 2 3/8 ports to the intake, not 3 inch) you don't need to upgrade the fuel system. Stock pump is not in the way. You can put the spider in, build/mount pipes and IC and go.

 

No reason to spend $2000 on an efuel kit.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...purchased.html

 

Yes, I'm certain the spider is a '98-early '99, known as an 'e99' on the forums. I patiently looked long and hard for one (that wasn't $325 'buy it now' price on ebay). As near as I can tell, most everything in the '95 7.3 van valley is the same as '95 7.3 truck.

The Craigslist Spyder guy threw in a pair of silicon stepped boots to go with it, that fit my factory plenums and the spyder.

That's what I really needed to know, and really good news fordman! Thanks!

 

 

Didnt the e99 from factory use reducer boots?!?!? I'm pretty sure they did tho I have never owned one.

 

 

 

Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures w/measurements and helping me out:

My craigslist spider has 2-3/8" plenum outlets, 3" turbo flange, making it an e99, correct?

The guy gave me a pair of ford plenums from the same engine as the spider, which turn out to have the same inlet tube diameter as the ones on the van. He told me all of it, the spider, stepped boots, clamps, and plenums are all off the same 1998 he's parting out. It all fits together on the bench. So long as the spider's outlet "Y" will straddle the stock '95 lift pump, I think we're good.

The reason all of this is important is because I'm trying to do this upgrade in stages and sort of on the cheap. I'm going after the leaks, first. Oil, fuel, exhaust up pipes, the EBP line this morning. As I delve into repairing leaks (from a few of the 27 different high and low pressure oil and fuel connections) I'm learning how the Ford stuff is supposed to work at the same time.

At the same time I'm gathering up parts for the IC upgrade. I'll need to relocate several items in the van's engine bay. Oil fill tube and dipsticks might need to move, the dual underhood batteries need to move to the frame rails (I bought some 2001 Ford Van frame mount battery boxes), all to make room for the custom IC tubes I'll make. Eating the elephant one bite at a time. You think I should change my 4x4 Diesel camper van's name from 'The Beast', to 'Jumbo the Elephant'?

I could be wrong, but with ULSD and biodiesel compatible viton o-rings now available to retrofit the Ford fuel bowl with for instance, 'throwing out the baby with the bathwater' and removing the Ford/IH fuel system just doesn't seem necessary. Mine works, it just dribbles and stinks like Diesel. Leaks are fixable.

 

As long as you are not upgrading injectors, turbo, etc. it isn't necessary to change the fuel system. If you plan on upgrading injectors in the future, dont throw money away at the stock system. If you would have to replace something like the fuel bowl I would for switch to electric fuel now as that is expensive unless you find a good used one.

if your spider measures 2 3/8 you are good.

 

Aww heck Mike, it's all good. Just making sure I wasn't wrong as much as anything lol.

 

I resealed the fuel bowl, new fuel pump, rebuilt the turbo, added a WWII and 360 deg bearing, deleted the EBPV and its leaky actuator.
After working on it for several months of weekends, I'm almost done with the van intercooler installation.

Making room for the boost tubes was a real PITA, I had to make a new oil filler tube, move one of the underhood batteries over, then of course build my own boost tubes and mounts for the intercooler to tuck neatly behind the Ford grill.

I added a large transmission cooler while I was at it (that I won in a raffle). I just have a few more little things to clean up, and I should be firing it up this weekend.

 

Intercooler outlet and inlet are in the right locations, but the nipples are 2-3/4", and I'm working with 3" tube salvaged from a 99 and up truck, along with 3" mandrel bent exhaust 90's from Summit Racing

I made these 3" to 2-3/4" tube adapters from 4140 steel tube

I moved the oil dipsticks to make room

everything is in the way! But the e99 spider clears the fuel bowl, and I can get the filter out.

viewed from the front of the van, driver's side, the hot side boost pipe juuuuust clears the AC compressor

Sample 3" tube for explanation purposes, I had to reinvent the oil fill tube to go around the tube. I could have modified the valve cover, but didn't want to disturb the gasket if I didn't have to, so this is my solution

The factory breather on top of the driver's side valve cover. I brazed on a steel -12 AN fitting

$20 Swapmeet find Moroso breather tank that was perfect for this project, I fabricated a bracket so I could mount it on the driver's side frame rail

finished cold side boost tube

 

I'm glad I went through the trouble to pressure test my welds, at 40psi test pressure, I found several pinholes that needed addressing before

The tubes came out pretty good. I later sandblasted the tubes inside and , in prep for paint

coating the inside with this 2000deg ceramic exhaust lining spray-n-bake stuff from Eastwood. I shot the outside with header paint. The end of that plastic tube I'm holding, has a tiny brass nozzle, w/3 holes, perfect for spraying the inside of a tube

I made the new section of oil fill tube from 1-1/4" copper pipe and fittings, soldered together, then came up with this technique for putting a bead on the ends using a modified electrical lug crimping tool. Thanks YouTube!

Crimped and freshly soldered 1/0 battery cable. Big butt connectors are hard to come by, but Napa Auto Supply had them. I had to move the passenger side battery over a couple inches, which meant lengthening the battery harness that crosses behind the radiator support.

The passenger side battery tray, extended a couple inches. More fabrication work, measure, cut, grind, weld, drill, paint to match.

 

I incorporated neoprene rubber grommets (intended for a PVC system) to vibration isolate the intercooler. I don't want to shake the intercooler apart over time

Mount details

I won this heat exchanger, originall yintended for an MRI machine, at a raffle. I may or may not add fans, later.

Modified hood latch assembly