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Newbie to the 6.0 and have some questions

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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Newbie to the 6.0 and have some questions

  #1  
Old 01-10-2019, 09:48 AM
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Newbie to the 6.0 and have some questions

My father in law died unexpectedly just over a month ago and because of this I now own his 2003 F-250 Lariat Crew cab with 6.5 bed and 6.0PSD He just purchased the truck himself late last summer. Not sure the exact date but that's irrelevant really. The truck has 182K miles and is in immaculate shape. Who ever owned it previously obviously took exceptional care of it. I have no need for this truck and if given the opportunity would never buy a diesel because of the increased maint. & repair costs and the simple fact I don't need one. But this is a nice damn truck! Because of the excellent condition and the sentimental attachment my wife has to it already, we may end up keeping it.
With all that said I know there are some horror stories about these 6.0s. From what I have read most problems typically developed early in their life span. Not knowing the history with this truck I have no idea what has or has not been changed/upgraded etc. My main question here is what do I look for signs things have been changed. Can you visible look at one and see if the EGR or oil coolers have been upgraded?
I do know my Father-in-law just had all 8 injectors replaced. There is a receipt for this in the truck. They also replaced the batteries and several other items(don't have the receipt in hand so I'm not exactly sure what was done). I do know there was nothing on the receipt about head studs or EGR coolers or any of the typical "bulletproofing" components.
If we keep this truck I want to be able to rely on it and trust it's going to get us from A to B without a $4,000 repair bill. Currently I have nothing it's going to tow and honestly it will sit most of the time. I have read these engines like to be used. I can drive it once a week or so if necessary. That's not a problem. If I find out that none of the "bulletproofing" items have been replaced is it worth it to have them done now or since I will be using it so little just keep up with maint. and watch out for signs of failure in the future. I don't want to sink 5-6 grand in a 16 year old truck but then again it was acquired at no cost so I am a lot more apt to spend this if I know it will help insure it will run another 10-15 years.
Sorry for rambling but looking forward to your comments/advise.
 
  #2  
Old 01-11-2019, 01:20 PM
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Moved to 6.0L PSD forum at the request of the OP.
 
  #3  
Old 01-11-2019, 02:15 PM
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gpeade

The Tech Folder here is a good place to learn about your truck. This is a good thread to read first: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...used-6-0l.html

Were the 8 new injectors Motorcraft units or an aftermarket brand?

There are several values that are important to monitor on the truck that really necessitate having a good OBD2 "gauge", such as ScanGauge II (probably minimum capability) to Forscan with bluetooth OBDII sender. There are several others as well.

This forum is a great place just to read as there is an enormous amount of good information here as well as a tremendous number a very savvy 6.0 PSD folks who are happy to help.
 
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Old 01-11-2019, 02:47 PM
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Yes there is a ton of information and knowledgeable people here. That's why I'm here. I first learned about this forum years ago with my 150 that's in my signature. I have already learned a lot from just reading different threads over the past several weeks.
As far as the injectors being OE or aftermarket...I am going to assume there were OE. Reason I say that is I have the receipt and the part number listed for them is 9E527 which is part of an OE number. That is also the case with every other part on this receipt.
 
  #5  
Old 01-11-2019, 03:21 PM
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9E527 is the motorcraft number for an 03 injector. Ford's remanned injectors are good quality.

The first thing you need to do IMO is to get an engine monitoring device. The cheapest way to go is to get a smartphone app and an OBDII adapter. The two best choices are Torque Pro and ForScan. The OBDII adapter you need depends on the smartphone. You need WiFi for i)s and Bluetooth for Android. Total cost will be less than $50. I have an i-phone and use ForScan. I have had an Android and have used TorquePro on it. Both are good. I haven't used it, but folks here say ForScan Lite works fine w/ an i-phone. ForScan is VERY good for reading codes. Some people use a ScanGaugeII. I have one and it is ok. It just isn't as nice or inexpensive as the smartphone options.

After getting the monitoring device, drive the truck and get it up to temperature. Once it is fully heated up to the point where coolant and oil temps are stable, Take note of these two temperatures and how much higher the oil temp is than the coolant temp. If the oil is more than 15 degrees above the coolant temp, then you need to get a new oil cooler. Don't install an aftermarket oil cooler, just stick w/ the OEM (if/when the time comes).

Second, you need to determine what coolant you have in it. The Ford Gold coolant has issues. It can gel or it can precipitate out. Either way, it can cause problems. If it is still the Ford Gold, you will need some extensive flushing and then switch to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant. The flush procedure will depend somewhat on the oil cooler health that was mentioned above.

Next, research getting a fuel pressure sensor and gauge. You have some expensive injectors. Keep then healthy with proper fuel pressure. You won't ever know if you have proper fuel pressure until you add on the sensor and gauge.

Quality oil, proper fluid and filter change intervals, OEM filters - you should be good-to-go.

You mighty want to post a picture of the engine. Be sure to get a couple of angles so we can see most of what is under the hood. We might be able to pick up on anything unusual that way.

You can't tell for sure about an EGR delete by just looking at the engine, but IMO it isn't all that critical. If you oil cooler is healthy, then the EGR cooler is probably fine. The 03's had a fairly stout EGR cooler.

IMO the weakest link on the 03 (other than the injectors) is the HPOP. I wouldn't worry about it, but if it did fail, I would go aftermarket. Several good choices, but they will be fairly expensive.
 
  #6  
Old 01-11-2019, 03:31 PM
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Determining if the truck has EGR deleted is not foolproof...the '03s can run EGR deleted without popping Check Engine Light (CEL). Just verifying the equipment is there is no guarantee that the EGR cooler wasn't modified to prevent EGR gasses from entering EGR Cooler.

As Bismic suggested, good place to start is posting pics of your engine from various angles.

Here are some pics from the 2003 6.0 PSD Coffee Table Book that show EGR Cooler, EGR valve:








 
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Old 01-11-2019, 03:58 PM
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Found this video on identifying head stud on 6.0 PSD

 
  #8  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:27 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. Truck has not had the head studs swap. I was under the hood today looking around and I noticed the degas bottle doesn't have but about 1/2 of fluid in the bottom of it. And the top and surrounding area has white-ish film splattered on it. Does that indicate I'm over pressurizing the system and forcing coolant out the cap? I also noticed what I believe may be a newer rubber connector on the line running to what I believe is the EGR. Would that new connector mean anything relevant? you can just see the end of it under the turbo mounting flange. I included pictures of both.
Is there any way to tell what coolant is in it or should I just have it thoroughly flushed and replaced with ELC?
 
  #9  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:32 PM
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sorry but I don't know why the photos won't upload. I have tried 4 times. They upload on my screen but then disappear when I post. ????
 
  #10  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by gpeade View Post
Thanks for the info guys. Truck has not had the head studs swap. I was under the hood today looking around and I noticed the degas bottle doesn't have but about 1/2 of fluid in the bottom of it. And the top and surrounding area has white-ish film splattered on it. Does that indicate I'm over pressurizing the system and forcing coolant out the cap? I also noticed what I believe may be a newer rubber connector on the line running to what I believe is the EGR. Would that new connector mean anything relevant? you can just see the end of it under the turbo mounting flange. I included pictures of both.
Is there any way to tell what coolant is in it or should I just have it thoroughly flushed and replaced with ELC?
Sometimes coolant overflow from cap can simply be a bad cap (i.e. vents pressure at lower pressure). A new Motorcraft cap is inexpensive and cheap insurance.

Also, the degas bottle isn't meant to be full. There was a TSB at some point that changed the fill line from the original "Maximum" line to the "Minimum" line. IIRC, Ford would add a new sticker to degas bottle.

Looking inside the degas bottle, do you see any oil contamination?
 
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Old 01-11-2019, 05:42 PM
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You have to use this if you're not to load pics, unlike some other forums.

As far as the white on top of the degas bottle, it depends if it was spilled coolant or "puked" coolant. You should be running this vehicle around with the monitoring suggested to get a handle on where it is. If it is "puking" it's going to get expensive real fast, so you need to get some experience with it to know how to proceed.



 
  #12  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:52 PM
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Link to Coolant Loss Checklist in the Tech Folder within this forum:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nts-degas.html
 
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by gpeade View Post
Thanks for the info guys. Truck has not had the head studs swap. I was under the hood today looking around and I noticed the degas bottle doesn't have but about 1/2 of fluid in the bottom of it. And the top and surrounding area has white-ish film splattered on it. Does that indicate I'm over pressurizing the system and forcing coolant out the cap? I also noticed what I believe may be a newer rubber connector on the line running to what I believe is the EGR. Would that new connector mean anything relevant? you can just see the end of it under the turbo mounting flange. I included pictures of both.
Is there any way to tell what coolant is in it or should I just have it thoroughly flushed and replaced with ELC?

Are you talking about the EGR cooler when you say a "rubber line to the EGR"? If so, what color is it?

White residue around the degas is most likely from the coolant minerals that are left behind when the water and glycol evaporate. As mentioned above, it can be there for a variety of reasons.

Best way to tell what coolant you have is to drain some into a clear container and post a pic, You can't always tell by color, but it can give you a clue. Most of the diesel ELC coolants are red in color, but the one I use looks a lot like the Ford Gold. Not many people use it though, so if yours is a gold color, I would say it is most likely time to change it out. If it is green in color, I would probably also change it out.

Again though - I wouldn't be doing anything until getting the engine parameter values (EOT and ECT primarily) I mentioned above (PIDs).
 
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:07 PM
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Sell it. You don't need it. The worst thing for the 6.0, or any older diesel really, is to sit and not be used....hard. Forget sentimental when it comes to a possible $15-18k truck you do not need.
 
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:15 PM
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If it is a nice truck, I doubt he would get the value out of it (especially if suspension, steering A/C, and tires are all in great shape, and also if it is a 4x4). He almost certainly isn't going to get $15k plus for it no matter how nice it is! People are talking about only getting offered $5k or so for these trucks.

You make a very good point, it needs to be driven .... and even "ordinary wear" maintenance will be more expensive than a gasser.

If it does end up needing head gaskets, AND he doesn't need a diesel, then selling it makes good sense for sure! I also believe that selling it makes good sense if you aren't going to monitor/learn a few critical things about your 6.0L (temperatures, fuel pressure, degas pressure, boost, etc). Unresolved, some issues can get expensive.
 

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