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Question on Lift of '75 F100

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Old 01-09-2019, 11:36 PM
Ptjsk
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Question on Lift of '75 F100

Hello,

I'm a newbie to this forum. Although I do belong to other classic car forums, this is the first Ford Truck Forum I've joined.

I recently purchase a 1975 Ford F100 4WD. The truck is a short wide box equipped with a 360, 4 speed, and a Model 21 Transfer Case. I realize this isn't the most desirable transfer case, but none the less it still operates well. Still retains original paint with an original 130k miles. Overall the truck's in pretty darn good condition.

I definitely need to lift the front end with efforts to at least even out the front to the rear. It looks to be a need of 3"-4". Can any of you guy's recommend springs that will give me the desired height? Also, I'm sure I'll have to get new shocks, but is there any thing else I need to do to the front end components?

Also, the power steering assist valve (Garrison Valve), appears to move a bit too much before it actually engages moving the wheels. I removed the valve and am currently having it rebuilt. I'm hoping that takes up the play that was in the valve.

I plan on new wheels and tires for the truck. I already have a set of 15" x 8.5" rims and I'm looking at either 33", or 35" tires. Will 35's fit under the front fenders with a 3"-4" lift, or should I play it safe and stay with 33's?

Thanks for your responses.

Pat

 
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Old 01-10-2019, 03:50 PM
Ptjsk
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Nobody has done this?

Pat
 
  #3  
Old 01-10-2019, 07:10 PM
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Hello Pat and welcome to FTE.... FYI some people work and or sleep, so be patient. lol

I am not a 1/2 ton experienced guy, but there is a lot of knowledgeable folks on here so hang in there for your answers. As far as who you might get a lift kit from... Skyjacker, Superlift, Rancho, Tuff Country. https://www.rockymountainsusp.com/li...0/1966-79.html

3", 4" inches of lift on the front of a F100, off the top of my head you will need a drop pit man arm, longer rubber front brake lines, adjustable drag link, and yes longer shocks.
 
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Old 01-10-2019, 10:41 PM
Ptjsk
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250 View Post
Hello Pat and welcome to FTE.... FYI some people work and or sleep, so be patient. lol

I am not a 1/2 ton experienced guy, but there is a lot of knowledgeable folks on here so hang in there for your answers. As far as who you might get a lift kit from... Skyjacker, Superlift, Rancho, Tuff Country. https://www.rockymountainsusp.com/li...0/1966-79.html

3", 4" inches of lift on the front of a F100, off the top of my head you will need a drop pit man arm, longer rubber front brake lines, adjustable drag link, and yes longer shocks.
Thanks Rich,

Darn....I knew I would have to change the shocks, but was hoping I wouldn't have to change all the other items. But, if it must be done, then that's what I'll have to do.

Thanks again,

Pat
 
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:29 AM
mark-guiver
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You can also look for lift parts at Wild Horses, Duff's, and Bronco Graveyard. The 78-79 full size Bronco parts will fit your truck. Their site's also have some good info about what else is needed with a lift to keep your truck driveable.
Mark.
 
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Old 01-11-2019, 02:04 PM
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Thanks for the responses guys! I do appreciate them.

Pat
 
  #7  
Old 01-11-2019, 02:18 PM
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for 4" need for drop radius arm brackets, just trac bar, drop pitman arm, and brake lines. You will want c bushings to put your caster back correct. Drive shaft should be fine. For your sanity your going to watch to ditch that valve and go with a normal steering setup, if your going with big tires/offroad alot you may want to add aftermarket hydro assist to that. Last truck i did i bought one of the 4" kits from JBG that came with everything needed except a welder for the trac bar bracket.
 
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:40 PM
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I don't know if the 73-79 1/2 ton 4x4's are pretty much the same setup as a 78/79 Bronco which are based on the F100/F150, but I put 35's on my 78 Bronco with no lift. Just need wheels with the right offset. I'm not sure stock wheels would quite work without limiting your turning radius.

They're kinda stuffed in there compared to a rig with a 4-6" lift, but they clear everything and don't hit anything when I go off road. That pic makes me depressed, I need to go shine my wheels sometime.




 
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Old 01-12-2019, 12:11 AM
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You may run afoul of a little bit of old age settling the springs, so it's hard to say that a particular height is going to give you the perfect stance you hope for. Depends on where both front and rear springs sit at this point.
The typical lift kit from back in the day would lift the front only 2" more than the rear, to keep it more level. Even that's not etched in stone though, but you can see that you might run into discrepancies based on old springs.

Normally I would recommend jacking up the front until you like just the way it looks, then compare the difference for your lift. But if the front springs have sagged out enough, even this won't be accurate. It's probably best to find that thread where members were comparing their wheel well opening height between known-stock and known-lifted heights. I still think some place more consistent, such as between the top of the axle and the bottom of the frame rail would be best, but anything that gets you close is good.
Maybe someone here has a link to the discussion they can post up.

Otherwise, yes to what they all said too. You basically should not go over 2" above stock and not take into account all the other stuff that makes up a suspension and steering setup.
Caster, draglink and trackbar overall angle and parallelism, adjsutable trackbars and draglinks to allow finer-tuning, all need to be taken into account to keep your truck handling well on the street.
C-bushings and/or radius arm drop brackets are effective at what they do (increase positive caster lost with the lift, or lacking from the factory), but both of them have one downside, which is moving your pinion/driveshaft angle in the wrong direction.
So you need to be mindful you don't bind up your front shaft u-joint. The good news though is that this is not a real common problem on full size trucks with minimal lifts. You normally would not run into a pinion angle issue with 2 to 4 inches of lift, especially with the high-pinion front Dana 44.

Good luck!

Paul
 
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:23 AM
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Here is my 79 SWB with 33's and a front leveling kit. Rear is all stock with factory blocks. After the 460 went in it still sits level.
 
  #11  
Old 01-12-2019, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp View Post
You may run afoul of a little bit of old age settling the springs, so it's hard to say that a particular height is going to give you the perfect stance you hope for. Depends on where both front and rear springs sit at this point.
The typical lift kit from back in the day would lift the front only 2" more than the rear, to keep it more level. Even that's not etched in stone though, but you can see that you might run into discrepancies based on old springs.

Normally I would recommend jacking up the front until you like just the way it looks, then compare the difference for your lift. But if the front springs have sagged out enough, even this won't be accurate. It's probably best to find that thread where members were comparing their wheel well opening height between known-stock and known-lifted heights. I still think some place more consistent, such as between the top of the axle and the bottom of the frame rail would be best, but anything that gets you close is good.
Maybe someone here has a link to the discussion they can post up.

Otherwise, yes to what they all said too. You basically should not go over 2" above stock and not take into account all the other stuff that makes up a suspension and steering setup.
Caster, draglink and trackbar overall angle and parallelism, adjsutable trackbars and draglinks to allow finer-tuning, all need to be taken into account to keep your truck handling well on the street.
C-bushings and/or radius arm drop brackets are effective at what they do (increase positive caster lost with the lift, or lacking from the factory), but both of them have one downside, which is moving your pinion/driveshaft angle in the wrong direction.
So you need to be mindful you don't bind up your front shaft u-joint. The good news though is that this is not a real common problem on full size trucks with minimal lifts. You normally would not run into a pinion angle issue with 2 to 4 inches of lift, especially with the high-pinion front Dana 44.

Good luck!

Paul
Thanks a lot for the information Paul!

Originally Posted by kettle-one View Post

Here is my 79 SWB with 33's and a front leveling kit. Rear is all stock with factory blocks. After the 460 went in it still sits level.
This would work perfectly. What type of spring did you use for the leveling kit? Was it a 2" lift? As Paul referred to, you didn't have to change all of the other stuff going with this leveling kit correct?

Great looking truck! Very clean!

Thanks again,

Pat
 
  #12  
Old 01-12-2019, 03:19 PM
kettle-one
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It was the leveling kit from Bronco Graveyard, so yes to 2". I did buy longer front shocks (I have factory dual front shocks), only because I needed new shocks as the truck was a complete frame off overhaul. Brake lines, pitman arm and track rod are all in the stock locations.

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1-2...uctinfo/23700/

 
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by kettle-one View Post
It was the leveling kit from Bronco Graveyard, so yes to 2". I did buy longer front shocks (I have factory dual front shocks), only because I needed new shocks as the truck was a complete frame off overhaul. Brake lines, pitman arm and track rod are all in the stock locations.

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1-2...uctinfo/23700/
Great! This is the way I'll go.

Thanks again,

Pat
 


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