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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

'86 F250 4x4 Doors sagging-not hinges!

 
  #16  
Old 01-12-2019, 07:07 PM
BigBlue2
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Originally Posted by eriklane View Post
Nice. I will tackle this...it'll be fun. Frame is fine...so let's assume the metal at the bushing is gone, do you think replacing that will solve the sag issue? (I do intend to do what you did though, but I can't really remove the cab to do it.

What gauge metal do I use?
Looks like Dave used a donor cab to get the floor pans and kicks and spot welded them in. Perhaps he back stich welded them and then bed liner ed them. He also rebuilt the cab supports. Nice work.
 
  #17  
Old 01-12-2019, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlue2 View Post
Looks like Dave used a donor cab to get the floor pans and kicks and spot welded them in. Perhaps he back stich welded them and then bed liner ed them. He also rebuilt the cab supports. Nice work.
I did not need to rebuild the cab supports or brackets if that's what you want to call them. I did replace the floor pans, rockers, cab corners, weather strip lip panels and part of the rear door jamb.
For welding I used an air punch to punch holes about every inch and used them to "spot weld" the panels in place. On the panels that were on the truck I drilled out the spot welds and that left holes I used to spot weld them back in place.
I then seam sealed the edges top & bottom then 2 coats bed liner top & bottom.
Dave ----
 
  #18  
Old 02-01-2019, 08:36 AM
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I looked under the driver side and what I call a cab support (flared metal welded to the frame, that has the cab bushing in the center) has some cracks at the frame but is whole, however I can see that the metal sandwiched in the bushing has rotted away from the support if I am seeing it properly. In other words the bushing is now lower a bit than it's normal position. So I THINK I have to remove the bushing, and weld new metal into the support and then reinstall the bushing (I'll get new ones).
I'm going to slice out the floor and buy a new one from RayBuck...and my rocker is shot as are my cab corners. Not doing a resto but just wanting to get it back to 'normal' as much as possible...and it's just fun as a hobby to fiddle.

Question is will my Harbor Freight wire welder work to weld cab corners and rockers etc...I have a miller buzz box arc welder also but not sure the lower/lowest setting is low enough.
 
  #19  
Old 02-01-2019, 09:07 AM
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ABSOLUTELY your HG wire feed flux core will work, if you can not blow through thin sheet metal. You may have to turn down, if you have a control, and you might have to tack and move and keep tacking to keep from blowing holes. But I use a flux core and did use HF one til my borrowing friend burnt out my transformer and I bought a Hobart. But, I still use the flux core on it too. If I had gas, I think I could weld cleaner and blow holes less, but it is what it is and I can deal with what I have.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 10:45 AM
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Great. i will test some panels and am aware from watching endless car shows that even they avoid heat by welding at different points all along the metal, avoiding arc-welding type of long welds to keep the heat down...It'll be fun.
 
  #21  
Old 02-01-2019, 05:02 PM
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Be easy on yourself, it’s easy to blow holes, do you have any scrap copper water pipe around you can hammer into a backer do you? They make a copper flat thing with a handle that can possibly help you. Forgot it’s name, I have one but drawing blank right now. A cheap 4” side grinder can make a tacked in panel look reasonable! You’ll have it down pat by time you’re done. You’ll do fine.
 
  #22  
Old 02-01-2019, 06:52 PM
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For your panels get them from http://tabcoparts.com/ they fit great and when I placed my first order they called my to tell me some of the panels would over lap a lot and told me what panels to get and they would send me a flat sheet to use where needed. I did not needed it.
I used a Lincoln MIG 135P with gas and the thinnest wire I can use with the welder. I have used flux core and it got the job done but had to clean up a lot of splatter gas you don't have this.
I have an air punch & flanger and punched holes around the edge about 1" apart and did plug welds in the holes to weld them together.

Under side of the left side looking front to back. The cab mount that the rubber puck mount fit to is to the right sitting on the orange part of the horse I used to hold the cab up when doing floors, rockers, rear door posts, cab corners and weather strip lips.

I then did 2 coats of seam sealer on all the seams top & bottom and 2 coats of roll on bed liner top & bottom.
Dave ----
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  #23  
Old 02-02-2019, 08:24 PM
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FuzzFace-am I correct that this is the part that rests on what I call the cab bushings? In other words the floor doesn't support the cab, this part does?

https://tabcoparts.com/60170.html
 
  #24  
Old 02-02-2019, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by eriklane View Post
FuzzFace-am I correct that this is the part that rests on what I call the cab bushings? In other words the floor doesn't support the cab, this part does?

https://tabcoparts.com/60170.html
The link does not work for me. It looks like you were trying to post up part 60170L or 60170R then yes that is the cab mount on the body side and sometimes they rust out.
The floor also needs to be in good shape or that above mount will just push right up. The floor also ties into the rockers and they run front to rear to support the outer edge of the cab.
So everything: rockers / cab corners / door posts F/R / floor / cab mounts all have to be in good shape to support the cab as it was from the factory and have the doors open & close as they should and to have the fenders line up the way they should.

Here are pictures of the cab mounts on the cab they have long bolts down thru the holes the factory bolts would go thru.


The cab mounts then sit on the rubber cab mount bushings and the bushings sit on the frame that has brackets the rubber bushing sits on.
There is then the other half of the rubber bushing on the bottom of the frame mount with a washer/nut assy. that the body bolt screws into to hold the body to the frame.
Dave ----
 
  #25  
Old 02-06-2019, 10:39 AM
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So I have rotted floorboards and it goes back as usual along the rocker, and my rocker isn't even attached to the rear of the cab, my cab supports are likely both rotted but my seat area metal is good as is most of the center of the cab.

Plans? Please advise-I see it this way:
Cut all bad steel out of the floor and along side rocker next to seat area
Cut out entire rocker?
Install the cab support
Install rocker
Install new floor panel
Install metal between rocker and seat


Install cab corners if I'm having fun
 
  #26  
Old 02-06-2019, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by eriklane View Post
So I have rotted floorboards and it goes back as usual along the rocker, and my rocker isn't even attached to the rear of the cab, my cab supports are likely both rotted but my seat area metal is good as is most of the center of the cab.

Plans? Please advise-I see it this way:
Cut all bad steel out of the floor and along side rocker next to seat area
Cut out entire rocker?
Install the cab support
Install rocker
Install new floor panel
Install metal between rocker and seat

Install cab corners if I'm having fun
I would not guess (likely) on what you need get under there and look then look over Tabco.com site and see what they have for replacement panels.

DO NOT CUT any thing out till you et the replacements. For the floors if they come in different sizes get the bigger of the 2.
You lay the new panels over the old ones the best you can and trace with a marker around the outside of the patch panels.
When you remove the panels after marking you will see how much you can cut out of the old rusty parts.

Now you do not need to use the full patch panel. Take the floor if the whole is not bad you can trim the patch smaller, remark the floor and check again if it will cover what you need it to.
I know that is what I did with the rear door post, only used what I needed to fix the hole.
You may also need to make "filler parts" that the patch panels do not cover. I had to do this for the right rear cab brace where it ties into the rocker as it was rusted away.

Look over the pictures I have on my site of what I did as it sounds like what you need to do other than the cab mount braces is what I did.
1980 Ford F100
Dave ----
 
  #27  
Old 02-12-2019, 07:41 AM
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Great tips and the pics help. Looks like you did the cab support first, then the piece along the rocker, then the floor.

My dang rocker is totally disconnected at the back.

Looking forward to this and hoping I can do it, I think I can. Thank you
 
  #28  
Old 02-12-2019, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by eriklane View Post
Great tips and the pics help. Looks like you did the cab support first, then the piece along the rocker, then the floor.

My dang rocker is totally disconnected at the back.

Looking forward to this and hoping I can do it, I think I can. Thank you
I did not need to do anything to the cab supports other than separate them from what was left of the floors.
Here is a picture of the right side cab support from inside with the floor removed.

I see the new rocker in the picture but does not looked like is was welded yet so guessing clamped in place.

IIRC I put every thing in place with clamps before any welding to make sure every thing would fit together.
Then the rocker & rear door post / jamb was welded. This made the door opening strong and not move around.
I then welded the floor. Because I did this all by my self I had to find heavy things like old brake drums to push the floor down to the cab support so I could weld thru the holes left by the drilled spot welds.
I started with that support to floor and that held 90% of the floor in place for the rest of the welding.
I welded the cab corners last but they were fitted when I was fitting everything else to make sure they would fit.

If your rocker is not connected at the rear is the rear post also gone that the rocker welds to? You may need the rocker & rear post like mine did.
How is the front rocker to post? Mine was good but they do make this part too.
Once the rocker is in place you can then support the cab off the rocker to work the cab support and floor.
Before welding the floor to rocker make sure the cab is at the right height because once it is welded that is it.

Because my support was still in place and supporting the cab I just needed to get the floor to fit and weld it.
Dave ----
 
  #29  
Old 02-13-2019, 03:58 PM
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My rear rocker pic attached. Front rocker is solid so...I am ordering a floor pan and support and the piece that lays along the rocker that attaches to the portion the seat sits on as that's gone. Ray buck has an 'outer channel', do I need that? Where does that go?
 
  #30  
Old 02-13-2019, 07:06 PM
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What I see there is you need a rocker, rear door post & cab corner.
In my picture I have all that and the floor pan & think the black part was weather strip lip.

I cut the rear door post part shorter as that was all I needed.
I got all my parts thru Tabco.com and was really happy the way they fit.
Dave ----
 

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