My 1950 F1 project
#16
This is my "belt" thread. Trust me when I say the belts provided/listed by the current suppliers are too long for my stock 226. I cross-referenced Dayco, Gates, and some other chinese company belt listing with the original belt measurements (V-groove shape, v-groove depth, outside diameter, and inside diameter), and the ones from the suppliers weren't correct.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ad-6-belt.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ad-6-belt.html
#17
A gentleman bought it about 10 years ago to restore and never did anything with it. It was just sitting in the barn. I think I have found all the parts I need except rear lower shock mounts. Those appear to be very rare but I have searches going. The previous owner also threw a 12 volt battery in it without any voltage regulators so I am worried all the gauges are ruined. I don't have any rust holes to fix but I do have some odd holes someone cut in the grill (maybe for blinkers) and in the tailgate.
#18
6 volt?, Tractor Supply can help you there with batteries and cables.
Six Volt is dependent on good grounds, heavy wire (especially the primary leads) and the components in good repair. A tired or in ill repair 6v starter can function a while on 12V. Truthfully though, if the components are in specification it should do very well on 6 volt.
12V conversions were done to mask underlying problems like tired worn components, poor grounds and faulty connections. Too the availability of good 6V batteries also lead to 12 V conversions. With Tractor Supply, batteries are more readily available in most locales.
A word on the primary leads or the heavy cables......Most auto parts places only carry cables for Hondas. These cables are too light for even a 1950's-60s 12V system. You need good heavy cables to run 6V.
Fords were Positive Ground. So remember the polarity. A copy of the Factory Shop manual is a must.
If that transmission is the standard 4 speed it could be the spur gear type requiring double clutching as it was not synchronized.
Six Volt is dependent on good grounds, heavy wire (especially the primary leads) and the components in good repair. A tired or in ill repair 6v starter can function a while on 12V. Truthfully though, if the components are in specification it should do very well on 6 volt.
12V conversions were done to mask underlying problems like tired worn components, poor grounds and faulty connections. Too the availability of good 6V batteries also lead to 12 V conversions. With Tractor Supply, batteries are more readily available in most locales.
A word on the primary leads or the heavy cables......Most auto parts places only carry cables for Hondas. These cables are too light for even a 1950's-60s 12V system. You need good heavy cables to run 6V.
Fords were Positive Ground. So remember the polarity. A copy of the Factory Shop manual is a must.
If that transmission is the standard 4 speed it could be the spur gear type requiring double clutching as it was not synchronized.
#19
I have the 4 speed 'crash box' in my 1950 226 truck. It is an interesting experience to drive! What is normally 1st gear will be a creeper gear, good for about 3 mph. You normally start off in what is normally the "2nd gear" position unless you're pulling your garage off it's foundation, lol
Those tailgate holes could be drilled out for tail lights. Mine has aftermarket reflectors in those spots with no holes drilled (except for the screw holes to hold them on), but I can see where someone might have thought about adding lights there. Seeing as there are no tail lights or brackets on the truck now, maybe that's where they were?
Those tailgate holes could be drilled out for tail lights. Mine has aftermarket reflectors in those spots with no holes drilled (except for the screw holes to hold them on), but I can see where someone might have thought about adding lights there. Seeing as there are no tail lights or brackets on the truck now, maybe that's where they were?
#20
#21
#22
I'd guess those tailgate holes are for chain end-links. When cargo was loaded in the bed, someone might have tied it down with chains?
The front grille holes are for the optional bumper guard.
What are those two odd dimples in the top front of the bed panel?
I really like that truck of yours.
Tom
The front grille holes are for the optional bumper guard.
What are those two odd dimples in the top front of the bed panel?
I really like that truck of yours.
Tom
#23
#24
Hey Gsharum,
Welcome Aboard! It's really nice to see another '50 get saved!
Very nice truck... your door handles don't even droop. That oblong hole right in the middle of the
front grill down low … I believe that could be used to hand crank the engine like in the good old days
(I think).
What are you going to do with all your time since you don't have to fix all the rust holes in your cab
& sheet metal? You need to poke around a bit more I'm sure you can find some rust to fix.... you dont'
want to miss out on all the fun stuff.
'Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Welcome Aboard! It's really nice to see another '50 get saved!
Very nice truck... your door handles don't even droop. That oblong hole right in the middle of the
front grill down low … I believe that could be used to hand crank the engine like in the good old days
(I think).
What are you going to do with all your time since you don't have to fix all the rust holes in your cab
& sheet metal? You need to poke around a bit more I'm sure you can find some rust to fix.... you dont'
want to miss out on all the fun stuff.
'Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#26
#28
Start your own thread and include pictures of your truck and more of it's history.