Cod 14 Intermittent PIP signal, Runs fine, No symptoms - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Go Back  Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Reload this Page >

Cod 14 Intermittent PIP signal, Runs fine, No symptoms

Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Cod 14 Intermittent PIP signal, Runs fine, No symptoms

  #16  
Old 01-12-2019, 01:55 AM
Spork_Fingers
Spork_Fingers is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Spork_Fingers is starting off with a positive reputation.
Setting the timing with the new distributor was weird. With the SPOUT disconnected it would stay at 10* BTDC. When I plugged it back in, it would be at around 14* at idle. When I opened the throttle plates, it would immediately advance to 20* and bounce around at very light throttle, then go back to around 14* at half and full throttle. This doesn't seem right at all.

After reading other threads and talking to a family member that had the same issue, I am beginning to suspect the ECM. I took it out and took the cover plate off. Two capacitors appeared to be bad. They leaked acid all over the board and left a large stain. Going to try to find one from the junkyard or a reman tomorrow.

I'm starting to think a lit match in the gas tank is my best option.
 
  #17  
Old 01-12-2019, 02:56 AM
Ddaybc's Avatar
Ddaybc
Ddaybc is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Grand Forks, B.C.
Posts: 649
Ddaybc is starting off with a positive reputation.
When the spout is in the computer adjusts the timing "on the fly" so to speak. That's why it appears to float around while the engine is changing RPM and load. The purpose of removing the spout to set the timing is it removes any input from the computer on timing so the initial base timing can be set. When the timing floats slightly at idle it can be an indication of worn timing gears and chain. A little movement is normal at idle due to the slack or tolerances built into the timing chain and gears.
 
  #18  
Old 01-12-2019, 03:17 AM
Spork_Fingers
Spork_Fingers is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Spork_Fingers is starting off with a positive reputation.
Shouldn't the ignition advance as RPM increases? Mine is advances at light throttle and retards back to the base timing after the rpm's increase a little bit and the hesitation happens exactly when the ignition advances. It advances ten degrees or so as soon as there is any throttle input, even if the throttle plates are barely cracked, then goes back to base timing even if the throttle is wide open. This is with the spout plugged in. It doesn't seem right at all.
 
  #19  
Old 01-12-2019, 03:07 PM
Ddaybc's Avatar
Ddaybc
Ddaybc is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Grand Forks, B.C.
Posts: 649
Ddaybc is starting off with a positive reputation.
The timing should advance when throttle is applied and retard again when rpm stabilizes, especially with no load on the engine. I don't think it should retard back to base timing although I could be wrong. Do you know what condition your timing gears and chain are in? A simple test is to remove the distributor cap and turn the crankshaft back and forth by hand (breaker bar or socket and wrench) until the rotor moves. There should be a bit of slack but not much. I think I read 5 or 10 degrees on the crankshaft is OK but I'm certainly no expert. Hopefully someone with more experience can comment/confirm.
 
  #20  
Old 01-12-2019, 04:04 PM
Spork_Fingers
Spork_Fingers is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Spork_Fingers is starting off with a positive reputation.
The timing gears are pretty tight. There is a little play, not more than 5 degrees though. It's a pretty low mileage engine too. It has 115k on it.
 
  #21  
Old 01-12-2019, 08:03 PM
vjsimone's Avatar
vjsimone
vjsimone is offline
Old-Timer
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somewhere n North America
Posts: 2,644
vjsimone is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.vjsimone is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Originally Posted by Spork_Fingers View Post
I am beginning to suspect the ECM. I took it out and took the cover plate off. Two capacitors appeared to be bad. They leaked acid all over the board and left a large stain. Going to try to find one from the junkyard or a reman tomorrow.

I'm starting to think a lit match in the gas tank is my best option.
Photo all the numbers and codes off your PCM before you turn it in as a core...
 
  #22  
Old 01-12-2019, 09:03 PM
Spork_Fingers
Spork_Fingers is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Spork_Fingers is starting off with a positive reputation.
I have a new ECM on order. It was surprisingly less expensive than the distributor.

I have also discovered some wiring hack job while cleaning all the grounds again. The blower motor always spins at very slow speed even with the switch off. There was also a wire teed into the red and green wire in the main wiring harness. I cut this wire and the blower stopped working, but the code 14 went away. I followed that wire to the connector to the blower. Also pictures is another rats nest of wires going to the radio which was installed with exclusively electrical tape and zip ties.

Maybe I don't need the match in the gas tank to set this thing on fire.

Where does the res wire with a green stripe go? My Chilton manual says it is the positive wire to the ignition coil?




 


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us About Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.