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2018 Uplifter Switches-HOW DO YOU MAKE THEM ALL HOT?

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2018 Uplifter Switches-HOW DO YOU MAKE THEM ALL HOT?

  #16  
Old 01-02-2019, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 18six7bruh View Post
What happens if my battery still died after removing it...??
Hmmmmmm..............letís see..........I *THINK* then you would have a dead battery, and be in need of a jump!!!!!!!!

Couldnít help myself. Just had to do it!! LOL. Just kidding.
 
  #17  
Old 01-02-2019, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 18six7bruh View Post
What happens if my battery still died after removing it...??

If in fact you have a dead battery you might have created a back feed that is keeping circuits alive that shouldn't be.
 
  #18  
Old 01-02-2019, 12:12 PM
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Well thats not good.
 
  #19  
Old 01-02-2019, 12:13 PM
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Thanks for the early humor. lol
 
  #20  
Old 01-02-2019, 12:27 PM
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It’s your truck op, but I am trying to understand why you want all 6 upfitter power on all the time? For example, 5or 6 will do 40amps and run all your pods as flashers at all times. Further, any more than this load with the truck not running will drain your batteries very fast? Why not wire all 4 pods through one upfitter, with a controller box to flash them all?

this way at times, you can have the truck off but flashers running.

your plow controls, pump (5 or 6) can be off of other upfitter?

i am assuming this is for snow plowing?

the other option is full accessory power, your can shut of truck and hit start, without depressing the brake, and it will allow full accessory, but you still protect the batteries. If voltage gets too low, it will shut everything down before you can’t re start. This is especially good if your not running the truck, ie an employee.....
 
  #21  
Old 01-02-2019, 12:29 PM
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by 18six7bruh View Post
What happens if my battery still died after removing it...??
Probably other BCM "Hot on Run or Start" loads being kept alive via a back-feed; can't tell from the upfitter bulletin schematic. A possible solution is to remove Fuse #22 (5A) from the passenger compartment fuse panel. This is the fuse that normally feeds the circuits for Upfitter Switches 1-4, the PTO relay, and the Run/Start relay. The back feed is likely going through this fuse.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer
 
  #22  
Old 01-02-2019, 01:48 PM
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Inside the hood right?
 
  #23  
Old 01-02-2019, 02:17 PM
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by 18six7bruh View Post
Inside the hood right?
No; inside the passenger compartment fuse box.





HTH,
Jim/ crewzer
 
  #24  
Old 01-03-2019, 08:22 PM
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I am attempting to run 4 pods. one set on #1 and one set on #2 since those will be amber. #6 was going to be to power the flasher and # 5 was going to be to change the modes. To me running my lights from 1-6 is the best way to priorities my lights. Having the ability to run all my switches hot to me is an advantage, as long as you dont forget to turn them off. I may never need all 6 to be hot....but why not?

Trust me, I already thought about running all 4 pods on 1 upfitter but I dont like to make things easy.

No snowplowing here in California lol.


would you be able to go into detail about this. "the other option is full accessory power, your can shut of truck and hit start, without depressing the brake, and it will allow full accessory, but you still protect the batteries. If voltage gets too low, it will shut everything down before you canít re start. "


Originally Posted by mhoefer View Post
Itís your truck op, but I am trying to understand why you want all 6 upfitter power on all the time? For example, 5or 6 will do 40amps and run all your pods as flashers at all times. Further, any more than this load with the truck not running will drain your batteries very fast? Why not wire all 4 pods through one upfitter, with a controller box to flash them all?

this way at times, you can have the truck off but flashers running.

your plow controls, pump (5 or 6) can be off of other upfitter?

i am assuming this is for snow plowing?

the other option is full accessory power, your can shut of truck and hit start, without depressing the brake, and it will allow full accessory, but you still protect the batteries. If voltage gets too low, it will shut everything down before you canít re start. This is especially good if your not running the truck, ie an employee.....
 
  #25  
Old 01-03-2019, 08:22 PM
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Fuse is pulled. Time to test.
 
  #26  
Old 01-04-2019, 02:20 PM
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Question

Any luck?

Regards,
Jim / crewzer
 
  #27  
Old 01-04-2019, 02:56 PM
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Well my battery wasn't dead today. So to me seems like it is fixed. For now lol.
 
  #28  
Old 01-04-2019, 03:02 PM
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Good news, I hope!

Thanks for the update,
Jim / crewzer
 
  #29  
Old 01-04-2019, 04:15 PM
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I need to hook up my multi meter and see if its drawing anything from the battery.
 
  #30  
Old 01-04-2019, 04:43 PM
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If you have your switches on, but the truck is shut off, press the start button without foot on brake, it won’t start. Then it will give typos a notice in message centre stating full accessory power. It will still shut off power when the batteries are too low, but it should power all your upfitters so all your lights can be on but will have the benefit of battery protections. Once it detects low battery it will shut down the power until you start the truck and have your alternator charging.

do you have the diesel, dual alternators, or single alternator and secondary battery on a 6.2 gas. Reason I ask is the battery or batteries will easily turn over a cold gas motor but not so likely if run down with a diesel.

i know this from letter my kids watch a movie in the truck. Could start the 6.0 the next morning. Had to swap in the trailer batteries, start the truck, swap in the old batteries and head to Costco. Not fun. I knew my batteries were getting epweak, they were the 3rd set in 13 years, but one movie and she was toast.
 

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