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Parts Truck into trailer question

 
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:10 PM
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Parts Truck into trailer question

I have a 1987 f250 2wd parts truck that I'm considering a converting into a truck bed trailer. (once I salvage all I can off it of course) I've seen quite a few of these on the road with the rear axle in place, Or they install a trailer axle with electric brakes. Leaving the rear axle installed seems like a lot of extra weigh to tow around, which leads me to my questions.

1. Could I install the 2wd front axle under the bed?

2. Is there a way to utilize the front disc brakes?
 
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Old 12-26-2018, 03:02 PM
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Thinking I figured out this won't work because the front axle is for steering. Also, shocks won't mount in the same place. Probably the leafs also. Oh well
 
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:53 AM
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You could use a front axle and weld the steering system so it won't pivot, but I've never seen anyone damage the rear axle on a trailer like these. Typically they get loaded the same way they would if the rest of the truck was attached and running.
 
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Old 01-01-2019, 08:26 PM
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Suggestion, Remove rear axles cut off cap, reinstall cap, top rear end with oil. Now you won't have the drag of the third member gears spinning. to further reduce weight you can remove the piion and gears and bolt or weld a flat plate in place. Then repack rear wheel bearings with a good grease.
 
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:48 AM
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I've done in the past using full-floating axles in other applications. As TJ stated above said.... If you have a true full-floating axle, remove the axle shafts and cut off the drive flange. Pack the wheel bearings with grease, and reassemble like normal using the axle flange as a cap now. Pull and toss the differential and ring gear in the scrap pile, and replace the diff cover with nothing inside.

With all the extra work and cost involved, that it would take to install a trailer axle, it's not worth it for this application really. You wont be saving that much weight, and the point of a truck-trailer is because it is basically free.

On a side note... here's my own hillbilly enclosed trailer out of F150 sporting a 9" axle. When not attached to a truck, and empty, I can move it around, pushing it by hand no problem. Their not that heavy.





 
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:13 PM
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Being a Dana, there are options. If it was a 1/2 ton with 8.8 I wouldn't change it.
 
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Old 01-18-2019, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirtbag View Post
I've done in the past using full-floating axles in other applications. As TJ stated above said.... If you have a true full-floating axle, remove the axle shafts and cut off the drive flange. Pack the wheel bearings with grease, and reassemble like normal using the axle flange as a cap now. Pull and toss the differential and ring gear in the scrap pile, and replace the diff cover with nothing inside.

With all the extra work and cost involved, that it would take to install a trailer axle, it's not worth it for this application really. You wont be saving that much weight, and the point of a truck-trailer is because it is basically free.

On a side note... here's my own hillbilly enclosed trailer out of F150 sporting a 9" axle. When not attached to a truck, and empty, I can move it around, pushing it by hand no problem. Their not that heavy.

We must of had the same set of plans. For the tongue I also used square stock but I welded in a reciever on the trailer tongue so I can extend it or shorten it or take it out all together when I store it in the yard.
I too left the stock axle. The whole idea is to build it on the cheap. I think I had 24 bucks into it for the electrical junction block and trailer plug pigtail. I also wired the fuel pump to a seperate switch and pump off gas from the onboard stock fuel tank to fill my lawnmower or yard kart.
(I know it's not a Ford, go easy on me)

 
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Old 02-09-2019, 07:16 PM
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You might want to see what trailer requirements might be, in your state. I made one from a 64 frame and a 75 short bed. In NY if the trailer weighs 1000 pounds or more, it has to have brakes. Mine weighed 900lbs. 9" rear, removed the pinion gear and made a cover plate for the opening.
 
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Old 02-10-2019, 07:16 PM
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I built a trailer out of a '68 F100 that was just too far gone to rebuild. It has a 9" rear axle. I haven't done anything to it yet, but have thought about removing the gears. One a' these days........
I don't have the truck anymore. I did just (today) buy an '05 Expedition (yes, I know about the 5.4 engines) to pull it with.

 
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Old 02-11-2019, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by flyboy2610 View Post
It has a 9" rear axle. I haven't done anything to it yet, but have thought about removing the gears. One a' these days........
Because a 9" axle is a semi-floating axle, I think you would want to keep at least the ring gear in there, as it splashes the gear oil around in the differential for lubrication, as there is carrier bearings in there, that support the inner end of the axle shafts. You could eliminate the pinion though, if you really wanted, and that would eliminate the drag from three bearing sets atleast. You can only gut a differential if it is a true full floating axle, as there is no weight bearing on the actual axle shaft.
 
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Old 02-11-2019, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirtbag View Post
Because a 9" axle is a semi-floating axle, I think you would want to keep at least the ring gear in there, as it splashes the gear oil around in the differential for lubrication, as there is carrier bearings in there, that support the inner end of the axle shafts. You could eliminate the pinion though, if you really wanted, and that would eliminate the drag from three bearing sets atleast. You can only gut a differential if it is a true full floating axle, as there is no weight bearing on the actual axle shaft.
Yeah, that's true. Poor choice of words on my part. I should have said pinion.
 

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