Aftermarket double din install
#1
Aftermarket double din install
I got a double din touchscreen radio for Christmas I'm going to install in my truck (03 F250). I've done a lot of looking at installs of these radios and the Metra 95-5817 dash kit seems to be the one for it, but it looks like recesses the radio back in the hole more that it should.
For the ones that have done a double din install, what dash kit did you use?
For the ones that have done a double din install, what dash kit did you use?
#2
That’s the kit I got for my 02. Same deal, double DIN Sony touchscreen.
To be honest, the kit sucks, but it’s usable. And you do want it to be recessed into the dash. If it’s too close to the surface, sun glare will impact the visibility of the screen. Some advice: use good permanent double sided tape rather than screws to hold the adapter plates to the sides. The plastic it’s made of is soft and ‘squishes’ under the screw heads. Also be really sure everything works BEFORE you lock it into the dash. It’s almost impossible to get back out.
To be honest, the kit sucks, but it’s usable. And you do want it to be recessed into the dash. If it’s too close to the surface, sun glare will impact the visibility of the screen. Some advice: use good permanent double sided tape rather than screws to hold the adapter plates to the sides. The plastic it’s made of is soft and ‘squishes’ under the screw heads. Also be really sure everything works BEFORE you lock it into the dash. It’s almost impossible to get back out.
#5
I installed a double DIN in my '99, I ordered it and the mounting kit from Crutchfield. I mounted my GPS antenna under the dash in the middle. I mounted the XM antenna on the driver's side under the plastic cowl, opposite the radio antenna. I have had no issues with the GPS or the XM reception.
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I used screws when I mounted the "kit" to my radio, the biggest pain was cutting the material from the dash for the unit to fit. Once the H/U is installed using the kit, you will have to remove the dash fascia to get the radio out if needed.
I would recommend that you remove the dash fascia and not try to cut/trim it in place, it will make a "big" mess.
Make sure that when you put the screws in that you do not use the forward-most holes, otherwise as Rob stated you will have a permanent installation. When I finished with my install I had issues with the airbag light, too much jostling of the passenger air bag lockout switch caused me to have to replace the switch unit.
I would recommend that you remove the dash fascia and not try to cut/trim it in place, it will make a "big" mess.
Make sure that when you put the screws in that you do not use the forward-most holes, otherwise as Rob stated you will have a permanent installation. When I finished with my install I had issues with the airbag light, too much jostling of the passenger air bag lockout switch caused me to have to replace the switch unit.
#11
I have the same kit. You can still remove the HU without pulling the fascia. Just slide a butter knife between the fascia and the mounting kit on each side and lever it out.
#12
I used the Metra kit that was provided by Crutchfield. Mine is a Kenwood touch. I used the screws, as I read, and as was mentioned by maticuno, that the head unit can still be removed using thin blades pushed into sides of head unit.
Cutting the dash was a messy job. As also mentioned, be sure to triple check all functions are in order BEFORE you slide head unit into dash.
My GPS antenna is mounted on center of dash just below windshield. No XM antenna was used. I did connect a back up camera (included in my radio purchased at the time) to the rear license plate frame. It works pretty good for wide rear view.....but not very good for hitch hook ups as camera is mounted too low....wish there was a way to put a camera in at tailgate handle (like newer trucks).
My head unit ended up about 1/2"-3/4" recessed. Not sure if being slightly recessed reduces glare....but there is glare even being recessed. Not sure how you can avoid glare with these larger screens.
NOTE: I recently added the Polk DB572 speakers (front and rear) and used the Stinger Roadkill rings on all 4 speakers. The rings dampen the sound. The results......GREAT sounding system....pure sounding system with crisp highs and solid bass. IMHO....The head unit can not be fully realized without new decent quality speakers. The Polks I used are not high end, but are of very good quality.
Cutting the dash was a messy job. As also mentioned, be sure to triple check all functions are in order BEFORE you slide head unit into dash.
My GPS antenna is mounted on center of dash just below windshield. No XM antenna was used. I did connect a back up camera (included in my radio purchased at the time) to the rear license plate frame. It works pretty good for wide rear view.....but not very good for hitch hook ups as camera is mounted too low....wish there was a way to put a camera in at tailgate handle (like newer trucks).
My head unit ended up about 1/2"-3/4" recessed. Not sure if being slightly recessed reduces glare....but there is glare even being recessed. Not sure how you can avoid glare with these larger screens.
NOTE: I recently added the Polk DB572 speakers (front and rear) and used the Stinger Roadkill rings on all 4 speakers. The rings dampen the sound. The results......GREAT sounding system....pure sounding system with crisp highs and solid bass. IMHO....The head unit can not be fully realized without new decent quality speakers. The Polks I used are not high end, but are of very good quality.
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I used the Metra kit that was provided by Crutchfield. Mine is a Kenwood touch. I used the screws, as I read, and as was mentioned by maticuno, that the head unit can still be removed using thin blades pushed into sides of head unit.
Cutting the dash was a messy job. As also mentioned, be sure to triple check all functions are in order BEFORE you slide head unit into dash.
My GPS antenna is mounted on center of dash just below windshield. No XM antenna was used. I did connect a back up camera (included in my radio purchased at the time) to the rear license plate frame. It works pretty good for wide rear view.....but not very good for hitch hook ups as camera is mounted too low....wish there was a way to put a camera in at tailgate handle (like newer trucks).
My head unit ended up about 1/2"-3/4" recessed. Not sure if being slightly recessed reduces glare....but there is glare even being recessed. Not sure how you can avoid glare with these larger screens.
NOTE: I recently added the Polk DB572 speakers (front and rear) and used the Stinger Roadkill rings on all 4 speakers. The rings dampen the sound. The results......GREAT sounding system....pure sounding system with crisp highs and solid bass. IMHO....The head unit can not be fully realized without new decent quality speakers. The Polks I used are not high end, but are of very good quality.
Cutting the dash was a messy job. As also mentioned, be sure to triple check all functions are in order BEFORE you slide head unit into dash.
My GPS antenna is mounted on center of dash just below windshield. No XM antenna was used. I did connect a back up camera (included in my radio purchased at the time) to the rear license plate frame. It works pretty good for wide rear view.....but not very good for hitch hook ups as camera is mounted too low....wish there was a way to put a camera in at tailgate handle (like newer trucks).
My head unit ended up about 1/2"-3/4" recessed. Not sure if being slightly recessed reduces glare....but there is glare even being recessed. Not sure how you can avoid glare with these larger screens.
NOTE: I recently added the Polk DB572 speakers (front and rear) and used the Stinger Roadkill rings on all 4 speakers. The rings dampen the sound. The results......GREAT sounding system....pure sounding system with crisp highs and solid bass. IMHO....The head unit can not be fully realized without new decent quality speakers. The Polks I used are not high end, but are of very good quality.