dang is the 168K miles still sorta current for the truck?? that is nice results for dog on sure.

 

Where is the best place to get the shim kit? I didn't see it in this thread. Sorry if I missed it.

 

Awesome results, fiend..its down to me and Pete. Who's gunna pull the mancard first..lol

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/INTERNATION...s/191606953289

"INTERNATIONAL T444E / DT466e / 1530E injector tune up SHIM KIT w/ IP Tools" on Ebay

Seller name on Ebay truckrental

 

Good question. I don't have a prediction at the moment, but I can also say that I'm getting closer by the day.

 

Thanks Sous. Maybe this will help with my injector problems that we have talked about.

 

Thank you, Sand Fiend for posting this thread, as well as the other members here that have contributed it. I ordered the Ebay kit linked and successfully shimmed my injectors today. My 2000 F250 7.3/ZF 6 spd 4x4 has 331K on it's original injectors and I have had very little issues with them until last winter and again this winter with missing until engine warmed up. I previously tried Archoil and IT DID help, but at $41 a bottle I figured the shims would be more beneficial for a much longer period of time. The only work under the valve covers I have done is retorqued the injector hold downs and rockers, doing this REALLY quieted down the engine and that was done at 200K and installing the under valve cover wiring harnesses about 15K miles ago. I found 5 of the injectors needed .003" armature and solenoid shims and 3 needed .002" armature and solenoid shims. I was hesitant at first when torqueing the armature screws to 25in/lbs, but had no issues. If I can recommend one thing, get yourself (2) 1/4" drive 1/4" sockets and weld (1) to the extension for the T20/T10 torx bits and weld the other to the female torx bit that removes the original armature hold down screw, I found doing this made my install much easier. There were no factory installed shims under the armature plates. I also drilled the solenoid spacers as specified in the directions, deburred and filed flat then re-installed. I was never able to find any torque specs for the solenoid screws, I just "snugged" them up good and all seems well. Hope this is helpful.

 

I too ordered and received a kit. I dont know when I'll be able to tackle it though. I will be a single dad for 2 weeks this month so unless my 2 YO wants to help me those weeks are out.

Any work I do on my truck takes away from the house build.

 

Just shimmed the injectors and it knocked perdels down by 50% on #8 and #4. All of them except #4 needed .002, #4 needed .003 with of shims.

 

Were you having obvious problems indicating it needed shimming, and can you feel or hear the difference now? Mine stick when cold. It seems to run fine once they unstick, but I wonder if it'll run better once shimmed up.

 

It seems to start much smoother on the two cold mornings(17F, 26F) I've had since doing this thus far. I did this because I believe it needs new injectors soon and I'm not sure if I'm going to keep this Ex or dump it and get one with no rust and less miles. I can't completely isolate it because I also did the "cold weather" mod to the solenoid spacers. I'm still having an issue with a slight miss(which no one else seems to hear but me) and hot start issues which I think might be related to an icp issue because today I found that inside of my icp sensor(Just ordered a new one from dieselorings 2 minutes ago) was covered in oil. I will say that it doesn't smoke as much now in the morning and for not as long, but that is all completely subjective. If this doesn't work, then I think i'm moving on to replacing the injector orings.

If you choose to do this, make sure you use something(I used an old pillow case) to put under the injector so that you don't drop anything into the engine and hand tighten the armature screw as much as you can and then use the torque wrench. Once I started hand tightening as much as I could and then using the torque wrench, I didn't have any more problems with snapping the armature screw into the poppet(Correlation vs Causation I know), but that cost me an hour and 15 minutes when that happened. If you do snap the screw off into the poppet, its not to big of a deal to get the remainder of the screw out. You just have to get the poppet out. I got mine out by using a pick to spin it out. There are many videos out there about rebuilding an injector and you can start those videos at the point where the install the poppet and spring and put it back together from there. Also, after you torque down the armature screw, recheck the clearances. I had one that was at a LOOSE .005 and ended up taking the armature back off and taking the .001 out so that it was back at .004 which could have been the result of the armature screw being loose already when I initially checked the clearances. And just remember: Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

 

With 15-40 oil mine were sticking below 70 degrees, 5-40 helped bring down the temp threshold. It's got 430k miles and unknown history, guessing factory injectors. Once they unstick it runs amazingly well. It's got a few oil leaks so I've been debating shimming in place vs. pulling the motor and going through it on a stand; re-seal everything, injectors, cups, etc.

 

Sticking how? I didn't think our injectors could stick.

 

Whats the "cold weather" mod and to having bigger b@lls then me on doing that maintenance..glowplugs had me making change, if i swallowed a quarter

 

See post #29 from this thread. That's about how I felt. The idea of drilling anything that goes on the inside of the engine had me nervous, and I was so paranoid the whole time of leaving any kind of shavings on the spacer.