When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So after reading through this I have a few questions for the people here. Seems a lot are running 37s just leveled. Well I just bought a 2011 F250 CC and it was already leveled with a 2 lower block. A few people told me that would clear 37/13.5s easily and fine on the 22x10 -18 rims I had already bought for my previous f250. Well I got tires and now major rubbing. Changed out coil springs to RC 1.5 lift springs. Still Rubs!!! Whats the deal here? Is it because my front bumper is soo heavy? Or am I missing something? About to just buy a 6 lift but I really like the leveled 37 look. Was gonna add bilstiens and run it but I dont want rubbing.
So after reading through this I have a few questions for the people here. Seems a lot are running 37s just leveled. Well I just bought a 2011 F250 CC and it was already leveled with a 2 lower block. A few people told me that would clear 37/13.5s easily and fine on the 22x10 -18 rims I had already bought for my previous f250. Well I got tires and now major rubbing. Changed out coil springs to RC 1.5 lift springs. Still Rubs!!! Whats the deal here? Is it because my front bumper is soo heavy? Or am I missing something? About to just buy a 6 lift but I really like the leveled 37 look. Was gonna add bilstiens and run it but I dont want rubbing.
With a 3.5" lift, I had to run a 9" wide wheel with a +1 offset and a 12.50 tires. I still had to pull the liners back. There is no way a 2" lift is not going to rub with a 10" wheel with more offset. If you don't want to rub, get some narrower wheel with less offset. I guess 10's would work, if you had a +18 offset.
Your truck looks great, btw.
Originally Posted by Chuckfx4350
I have a question for Ron 94150.
Browsing through the the forum I came across a thread that you started posing the question ReadyLift 3.5” vs Zone 4” lift. It’s obvious you decided on the ReadyLift so what was your determining factor for your decision?
Several factors....
I was on a budget, and gearing was priority with my gas motor.
I tow. Usually just local, but once a year or so, we take a family camping trip. I know how my factory springs perform.
I'm not hand washing this things all the time, but I keep it clean. After measuring the clearance bar from the cab, I didn't think a 4" lift would work with 36.6" tall tires. Turns out, I was right. If I hit the brakes hard at the gate, I can make the cab hit the clearance bar! This is the same reason I haven't installed cab lights.
Last, I like the stuffed look. And while 1/2" isn't a lot of difference, I'd run a even smaller lift if I could. But I did want an aggressive offset, with an inch or so of tire sticking out, what I've always ran since I lifted my first Bronco.
I would make sure your F350 has the 4" tall rear blocks. I'm almost certain that all the F350s had the 4" blocks from 11-16, but I would double check. If for some reason you have 2" rear blocks, the 2.5" in the front will give the squatting dog look. Trust me, I know. I put just the front leveling kit on first thinking it would be good to go, then had to turn around and lift the back as well.
Did you need to change the shocks for this or can I keep stock for now?
I did new shocks, but I could have gotten away with shock extender brackets.
To the guy above running 37x13.50 on a 10" wheel, they will always rub. They will rub the radius arms even if you buy a 6" lift. That wheel and tire combo are going to rub something no matter what. I have 2.5" in the front on mine and 2" in the back, and my 37x12.50s only rub the radius arm at full lock. They are on 20x9 -12 offset. It would clear a little better if you went with more than 1.5" of lift in the front, but from what I learned, 1.5" is pretty much level with no mods to rear, anything over that, you will be lifting the rear as well.
I was on a budget, and gearing was priority with my gas motor.
I tow. Usually just local, but once a year or so, we take a family camping trip. I know how my factory springs perform.
I'm not hand washing this things all the time, but I keep it clean. After measuring the clearance bar from the cab, I didn't think a 4" lift would work with 36.6" tall tires. Turns out, I was right. If I hit the brakes hard at the gate, I can make the cab hit the clearance bar! This is the same reason I haven't installed cab lights.
Last, I like the stuffed look. And while 1/2" isn't a lot of difference, I'd run a even smaller lift if I could. But I did want an aggressive offset, with an inch or so of tire sticking out, what I've always ran since I lifted my first Bronco.
Thanks for the insight. I’m still going back and forth between the 3.5” ReadyLift and the 4” Zone. The height isn’t my dilemma like you said it’s only 1/2”. I’m more concerned about the aftermarket spring on the kit being to stiff. Like you said I know how the stock springs perform and I’m happy with that but essentially the 2 kits are the same price. So I’m having a hard time deciding to essentially pay the same price for a lift that comes with spacers shock extended brackets and trac bar relocation bracket compared to a kit that comes with shocks springs and a track bar. Now if the ride will suffer then that makes my decision easier. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to test out a truck with a zone kit. Decisions, decisions!
So after reading through this I have a few questions for the people here. Seems a lot are running 37s just leveled. Well I just bought a 2011 F250 CC and it was already leveled with a 2 lower block. A few people told me that would clear 37/13.5s easily and fine on the 22x10 -18 rims I had already bought for my previous f250. Well I got tires and now major rubbing. Changed out coil springs to RC 1.5 lift springs. Still Rubs!!! Whats the deal here? Is it because my front bumper is soo heavy? Or am I missing something? About to just buy a 6 lift but I really like the leveled 37 look. Was gonna add bilstiens and run it but I dont want rubbing.
My first thought was, there is no way those kits are close to the same price. But after looking, it appears the zone kit has come down in price and the readylift has gone up. When I was shopping 2 years ago, that base zone kit without radius arms was right at 1k. It's now just over 800. I paid just over 500 for my readylift kit. The best price I can find now is 700. For that price difference, I would go with the zone kit if I were you, if nothing else, just for the shocks. Not to mention a trac bar vs drop bracket.
So here are a couple of pics of my F250. Definitely needs some elevation. Parked next to other F250s that are stock its always lower. I also took some measurements and from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender its 24.25 in the front and 24 in the rear. Seems lower than it shoul be to me but not sure.
My first thought was, there is no way those kits are close to the same price. But after looking, it appears the zone kit has come down in price and the readylift has gone up. When I was shopping 2 years ago, that base zone kit without radius arms was right at 1k. It's now just over 800. I paid just over 500 for my readylift kit. The best price I can find now is 700. For that price difference, I would go with the zone kit if I were you, if nothing else, just for the shocks. Not to mention a trac bar vs drop bracket.
I have decided to go with the Zone 4 kit and just see what its like with their shocks before upgrading to Fox 2.0s. Still not sure if its worth it for my needs to go with the drop brackets for the control arms or get the kit with their control arms. Any thoughts?
Go with the kit with the control arms. It will look and perform better than just the brackets. Your truck appears to be normal height to me. It doesn't look any lower than any of the ones I have seen.
Go with the kit with the control arms. It will look and perform better than just the brackets. Your truck appears to be normal height to me. It doesn't look any lower than any of the ones I have seen.
I totally agree, its a no-brainer. Is it just me or is this the longest anyone on here has ever debated what lift to go with?! Lol just pokin fun Chuck
Go with the kit with the control arms. It will look and perform better than just the brackets. Your truck appears to be normal height to me. It doesn't look any lower than any of the ones I have seen.
That is what i was thinking. It’s only a couple hundred more. For some reason i thought i was reading in a thread that someone measured their stock height at around 27” but i could have misread. I also thought that the back would have been higher than the front with the factory rake.
Originally Posted by Sir Kayakalot
I totally agree, it’s a no-brainer. Is it just me or is this the longest anyone on here has ever debated what lift to go with?! Lol just pokin fun Chuck
LOL no worries it probably is actually. I am a text book over thinker. Ever since i lifted my first jeep and went through 3 setups and many thousands of dollars before i got the ride and look i wanted i have done over kill research before i do any type of mods to my vehicles.
I think somebody entiende that same thing on the mustang forum i used to belong to. You ever have been on a mustang forum!?
I totally agree, its a no-brainer. Is it just me or is this the longest anyone on here has ever debated what lift to go with?! Lol just pokin fun Chuck
I also would like some very detailed pictures of these radius arms when you put them on. If they have a little more clearance than the factory ones, I will be looking into getting some for my lift height to remedy my slight rubbing problem.
I also would like some very detailed pictures of these radius arms when you put them on. If they have a little more clearance than the factory ones, I will be looking into getting some for my lift height to remedy my slight rubbing problem.
01-28-2019, 12:01 AM
