Found him... @89LX306 is his name. Search him and look at the pics. Maybe even PM him if you want to know about the Carli or PMF stuff.

 

 

anti wobble track bar???
WTH is that. if your track bar was worn and causing death wobble a new track bar would fix it. a new track bar isn't going to correct your caster loss from a 3.5 inch lift. caster correction proper toe setting and making sure worn components are replaced is the only way to do that.

does their new track bar come with heavy duty steering dampers? betting it does so they can hide a symptom. better to do it right than try and pretend their isn't an issue

your new kit should have the proper drop brackets to keep your caster set properly not just spacers

 

I have 2.5" spacers on mine, and have only experienced death wobble before I lifted (had a blown shock that I am pretty sure was the culprit). I have not experienced any death wobble since I lifted it. I am currently not running a trackbar relocation bracket. Didn't need it with the amount of lift I have. My axle might be off 1/8 of an inch, but it hasn't caused any problems without the bracket or adjustable track bar. I agree, a good kit should have all that you need, including brackets. From what I've experienced, if you don't go too high with the front, and everything else in the front suspension is fine, then you shouldn't get any wobble.

 

If you shop around, you should be able to get the ready lift kit for well under $600. I ran this kit for a couple of reason. The rear blocks allow you to keep your bump stops unlike many others. I wanted to run 37's and keep the lift under 4" so I could still fit in my local car wash. It's so close now, if I hit the brakes to hard pulling up to the gate, it will rub the the clearance sign (which is plastic and on chains). No clearance problems in the wash bay. I also wanted to keep the stock springs. Many lift springs will ride better. But they get that better ride using a smaller diameter wire in the coil. And yes, finally I was on a budget, and my biggest concern was regearing the truck for the bigger tires(6.2 gas), and quality e rated tires, not a fancy lift. I'm extremely happy with how my truck drives and handles. The readylift kit uses the drop radius arm brackets to compensate for castor loss. I never experienced death wobble in any fashion. I did add 2.5 degree castor bushings to negate some of the tracking with the bigger wider tires on uneven surfaces. I can honestly say my truck drives as good or maybe even better than the day it did I drove it off the lot. Some better aftermarket shocks will be my next suspension upgrade after air bags for towing. Also, be sure to get the correct kit for your truck. Many online retailers sell the same kit for 1 piece and 2 piece rear drive shafts. This isn't correct! The taper is different on the rear blocks. Match the part number up off readylifts website. You shouldn't need an aftermarket trac bar unless your current one is shot.

Unless your budget is wide open, if you are wanting a lift that includes everything with springs, I would look at zone. They are a sister company to BDS. I think they are your best bang for the buck lift with coils versus rough country and some of the others when you factor in quality.

Lastly, there is a big difference on running 37's on a light Jeep versus a heavy superduty. My truck drives 10x better than my wrangler on 33's, and I would say my wrangler drives better than a large percentage of lifted jeeps out there.

 

 

 

I used the supplied 3 inch blocks in the readylift kit. It uses 3.5 inch spacers in the front. This leaves me with a 3/4 inch rake in the rear. As far as squat, yeah, the truck squats to easily in my opinion. But that has nothing to do with the blocks. That's the factory leaf springs, and it squared to easy before the lift. That's why air bags are on my to do list. I regeared to 4.88's because I tow a travel trailer that's 8500 dry, and I'm always over 10k when loaded. And I'm gas powered. If you have 3.55's, you must have a diesel. Unless you are towing extremely heavy, you should be just fine with your stock gears. I run the Nitto ridge grapplers. They are e rated. I have absolutely 0 stability issues. I guess any ill effects of going up 3.5/3 inches is negated by the wider wheels and tires and slightly bigger offset of the wheels. And with offset, you will have to run a 9inch wide wheel or smaller with a 0mm offset or more to run 37's with this lift. Mine are +1mm. Factory offset is, I believe, +44mm. Simply put, you can't run this small lift and 37's and have the skateboard look that is so popular these days.

 

I run bilstien 5100 shocks on mine. They totally changed the ride over the shocks that were on it before I lifted (Gabriels i think). Bilstein sells them in different sizes for how much lift you have. I wouldn't mind changing my gears, but with 35s, I don't notice much of difference in the take off and acceleration. Although the truck did already have 33s on it when I got it.

 

 

 

That wheel offset should work just fine. Tire should sit flush with fender. Mines sticks out about an inch. And yes, you are correct, the kit came with 5inch blocks and I removed the factory 2 inch. Sorry, it's been almost 2 years.

 

 

I’m gonna give you my opinion on this. Not trying to take anything away from the spacer type lifts. Ron’s is one of my favorite trucks of all the FTE members here. But I would look closely at a complete system built by one company and packaged and sold as a complete unit. They are designed to work together and you’re almost guaranteed to get a better ride and a better handling truck than in stock form. A complete lift kit should have a dropped pitman arm, new adjustable track bar, new radius arms that rotate your axle properly and eliminate the need for the low hanging radius arm brackets, new longer coils that will ride smoother yet still allow for heavy towing and also bump stock extensions. A lift kit like this is going to allow your truck to flex better and is going to have less problems in the long run. If your kit doesn’t come with new rear leafs then it should contain a taller replacement block with the correct pinion angle already built in and possibly add-a-leafs to raise the rear. For just a little more money you can get a lot more quality and less headache. Check out Zone off-roads 4” lift kit. Sounds like that is what you would need to run 35s with the option to go 37s. Do it right the 1st time

 

I couldn't agree more, and I previously recommended the zone kit. You touched on one of my big concerns, and that's coil length and rate. Some of these kits sacrifice the coil rate. No doubt the spacer lift is a budget lift. I spent quite a bit, but was on a budget, and the lift was what I sacrificed on. I still recommend the ready lift kit if you can't swing the coin for a GOOD full blown kit. It does everything it is suppose to do without any ill effects, on the street at least.