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650 H.P. & 1360 ft. lbs. of torque in a 2008?

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650 H.P. & 1360 ft. lbs. of torque in a 2008?

  #1  
Old 12-16-2018, 11:21 AM
Country Bumpkin
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650 H.P. & 1360 ft. lbs. of torque in a 2008?

Hi Folks,
I'm still searching for that perfect (pre-owned) Ford F350 Diesel Truck, and am learning LOTS.
I recently came across a Craigslist Ad nearby for a 2008 (guessing a 6.4) that claimed some pretty amazing numbers.
In the ad it said:
"The truck is sitting right now at 649.9 HP/1363.6 Ft/lbs Torque. Dyno sheets to prove data."
The whole ad is:
https://appleton.craigslist.org/cto/...749282286.html

What the heck type of mods/upgrades did he do to that puppy to get that performance?
I, personally, wouldn't need that much of a BEAST, but am interested in learning what are some of the things people do with their Powerstrokes (mainly 6.0 - that's what I'll be getting) that increase their performance a bit, and possibly help fuel economy, etc?
Cold Air Intakes?
Exhaust upgrades?
I know the scoop with old school (gas) V8's, but am new to diesel.
I had an old '71 with a high performance 390, but this is a new ballgame.

Thanks,
Bob
 
  #2  
Old 12-16-2018, 11:45 AM
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Stay away from it
 
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Old 12-16-2018, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperDutyScaler View Post
Stay away from it
Thanks for the advice.
But, I wasn't even considering that one at all.
I was merely trying to get a basic idea as to what sort of things guys do to diesels to "pump them up" a bit.
The era of trucks I'm looking at are the 6.0's - ('04-'08).
Sometimes guys swap out the air breather for something less restrictive, and pick up a few extra ponies, and ad a tiny bit to mileage - that sorta thing.



 
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Old 12-16-2018, 12:30 PM
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It doesn't take a whole lot of mods to get a 6.4 to that power level. Just a simple delete, cold air intake, exhaust, and a hot tune will dyno 550-600 HP. Some turbo upgrades and a better lift pump will get you close to the 650 HP mark, bigger injectors and a higher flowing injection pump will get you 800+. However they aren't known to be reliable at that level unless the engine has been built for it.
 
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Old 12-16-2018, 12:58 PM
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The OP is asking specifically about 6.0 .
The 6.0 will hardly stay together in stock form, add a tuner without a lot of preparation, and it's a ticking bomb.
The stock air box on a 6.0 will flow more than you'll ever need and keep it together, so a CAI will only really increase noise.
Studs, MLS head gaskets, flat deck and well prepped heads will be where you need to start before adding any power to a 6.0 .
I was happy with mine after the full monty of Bulletproofing, and an Atlas tune in the FICM. I could tow 10k all day long, and it wouldn't struggle or belch period.
You want power, get a 13 and up 6.7 .
 
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Old 12-16-2018, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by carbonation View Post
The OP is asking specifically about 6.0 .
The 6.0 will hardly stay together in stock form, add a tuner without a lot of preparation, and it's a ticking bomb.
The stock air box on a 6.0 will flow more than you'll ever need and keep it together, so a CAI will only really increase noise.
Studs, MLS head gaskets, flat deck and well prepped heads will be where you need to start before adding any power to a 6.0 .
I was happy with mine after the full monty of Bulletproofing, and an Atlas tune in the FICM. I could tow 10k all day long, and it wouldn't struggle or belch period.
You want power, get a 13 and up 6.7 .
Thanks. This is about what I was thinking - don't want to put the cart before the horse.
Definitely would want to do the basics before anything else.
I wish I could afford a '13 or newer 6.7, but can't.
Besides, this puppy will probably be driven approx. 4K-5K miles/year. Just hauling hay about once or twice a month.
That's another reason I don't want to sink a lot of $ into something.
The 6.0's are much more in my price range, and the 1st thing I check on is if they are Bullet Proofed.
I may not even need to do any performance upgrades. But, would DEFINITELY make sure the Full Monty of B.P. was done first.
Thanks,
Bob
 
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Old 12-16-2018, 02:53 PM
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For that amount of miles and that kind of towing just get the V10. It would serve you well.
 
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Old 12-17-2018, 06:21 AM
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.
its easy to force extra 'AIR" and "FUEL" into and engine .. gas or diesel ...
its an entirely different thing keeping the engine together. with the extra added power.
 
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Old 12-17-2018, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by super 6.8 View Post
For that amount of miles and that kind of towing just get the V10. It would serve you well.
Thanks for the tip. There are numerous reasons why I decided on a diesel. Won't go into them all. But, I have heard the V10 is good, as well.
 
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Old 12-17-2018, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck's First Ford View Post
.
its easy to force extra 'AIR" and "FUEL" into and engine .. gas or diesel ...
its an entirely different thing keeping the engine together. with the extra added power.
Thanks. I agree 100%.
 
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:59 AM
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Guessing you'd also have to beef up some of the rest of the drive train if you wanted to get on it hard. Probably need traction bars or some such to keep the rear grounded during launch.
 
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Country Bumpkin View Post
Thanks. This is about what I was thinking - don't want to put the cart before the horse.
Definitely would want to do the basics before anything else.
I wish I could afford a '13 or newer 6.7, but can't.
Besides, this puppy will probably be driven approx. 4K-5K miles/year. Just hauling hay about once or twice a month.
That's another reason I don't want to sink a lot of $ into something.
The 6.0's are much more in my price range, and the 1st thing I check on is if they are Bullet Proofed.
I may not even need to do any performance upgrades. But, would DEFINITELY make sure the Full Monty of B.P. was done first.
Thanks,
Bob
Choose carefully. If all you are really doing is hauling hay and 4k miles a year, almost any well cared for truck can do that. And there may be no reason for you to BP at all under those conditions. I did because my family was in the truck, we were traveling with the RV tagging along. I got 99 problems, that wasn't going to be one. You might just find that a stock 6.0 would serve you well, until it needs attention.
Kind of makes me wish you had gotten mine. It was a nice 2003, one of the early builds where they were really trying to have it be good, and had not been molested. Still had the original factory flash before they started reducing power from all the issues, and always ran well. Just much better after the work was done.
For any 6.0, BP or not, you need a monitor to watch the delta between coolant and oil temps. Short story, oil cools turbo, sheds heat into cooling system, where it deals with it. When things go boink, oil temps will rise significantly above the coolant temps, and things go to heck quickly. By now, almost any 6.0 will have been into at least once, maybe more. If you find that perfect one owner, maintenance records available, clean vehicle, whether stock or BP, it's still a crap shoot depending on who did the work, when, and what has transpired along the way. Bulletproofing just extends the time between miseries. I finally had enough at 13 years and 150k on mine.
A relationship with a 6.0 is like living with a bi-polar chick that likes alcohol and crack. Sometimes the crazy is ok, but for the most part it's just tiring.
I bought my 6.7 from Enterprise for a perfectly reasonable 30,000 dollars. One year old 2016, 25k miles. You may want to check them out. Yes, probably 20,000 more than a 6.0, after paying someone to work it over but worth every penny.
Added bonus, I've got much more HP and torque stock than the 6.0 would ever give reliably.
 
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Old 12-17-2018, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by carbonation View Post
Choose carefully. If all you are really doing is hauling hay and 4k miles a year, almost any well cared for truck can do that. And there may be no reason for you to BP at all under those conditions. I did because my family was in the truck, we were traveling with the RV tagging along. I got 99 problems, that wasn't going to be one. You might just find that a stock 6.0 would serve you well, until it needs attention.
Kind of makes me wish you had gotten mine. It was a nice 2003, one of the early builds where they were really trying to have it be good, and had not been molested. Still had the original factory flash before they started reducing power from all the issues, and always ran well. Just much better after the work was done.
For any 6.0, BP or not, you need a monitor to watch the delta between coolant and oil temps. Short story, oil cools turbo, sheds heat into cooling system, where it deals with it. When things go boink, oil temps will rise significantly above the coolant temps, and things go to heck quickly. By now, almost any 6.0 will have been into at least once, maybe more. If you find that perfect one owner, maintenance records available, clean vehicle, whether stock or BP, it's still a crap shoot depending on who did the work, when, and what has transpired along the way. Bulletproofing just extends the time between miseries. I finally had enough at 13 years and 150k on mine.
A relationship with a 6.0 is like living with a bi-polar chick that likes alcohol and crack. Sometimes the crazy is ok, but for the most part it's just tiring.
I bought my 6.7 from Enterprise for a perfectly reasonable 30,000 dollars. One year old 2016, 25k miles. You may want to check them out. Yes, probably 20,000 more than a 6.0, after paying someone to work it over but worth every penny.
Added bonus, I've got much more HP and torque stock than the 6.0 would ever give reliably.
Thanks very much.
I'd die to have a newer 6.7, but it ain't gonna happen.
There's a local 2004 (6.0) Dually XLT Extended Cab that I am in love with. (Gotta be a Dually).
Bullet Proofed, One Owner, meticulously maintained with 120K miles.
I test drove it Saturday morning - solid as a rock.
It has 6 brand new Hankook tires on it.
I'm waiting on some $ to come in - I may be nabbing it (but am still looking around, too).
 
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Old 12-17-2018, 05:40 PM
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If you know nothing about diesels, or have never had one before, then a Super Duty with the 6.0L is probably not the right truck for you. The 6.0L engine will require lots of your attention and money to keep it running good. Especially if it was treated poorly by the previous owner. If you are going by whether or not it has been "bulletproofed", then that is all fine and dandy until you drive home and realize that it had really only been halfway "bulletproofed" and you are still driving a ticking time bomb. Look up what it means to truly make the 6.0L engine bulletproof, and make sure that the trucks you are looking at have had everything done. Like said above, some of the 6.0s, if treated correctly never were "bulletproofed", and never will need it. That being said, it is fairly unlikely that you will find one of those cream puffs used. If it were me, and you had to have a diesel, I would do everything in my power to get into a 6.7L. If that isn't possible, I would look for a clean 7.3L or maybe even look at other brands. A clean 7.3L with decent mileage can be found. It won't break the bank but won't be the deal of the century if it has low miles, but it will do what you are needing it to do easily and without all the worries and hassles of the 6.0L and 6.4L trucks.
 
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Old 12-17-2018, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselBeast01 View Post
If you know nothing about diesels, or have never had one before, then a Super Duty with the 6.0L is probably not the right truck for you. The 6.0L engine will require lots of your attention and money to keep it running good. Especially if it was treated poorly by the previous owner. If you are going by whether or not it has been "bulletproofed", then that is all fine and dandy until you drive home and realize that it had really only been halfway "bulletproofed" and you are still driving a ticking time bomb. Look up what it means to truly make the 6.0L engine bulletproof, and make sure that the trucks you are looking at have had everything done. Like said above, some of the 6.0s, if treated correctly never were "bulletproofed", and never will need it. That being said, it is fairly unlikely that you will find one of those cream puffs used. If it were me, and you had to have a diesel, I would do everything in my power to get into a 6.7L. If that isn't possible, I would look for a clean 7.3L or maybe even look at other brands. A clean 7.3L with decent mileage can be found. It won't break the bank but won't be the deal of the century if it has low miles, but it will do what you are needing it to do easily and without all the worries and hassles of the 6.0L and 6.4L trucks.
Thanks much. Prior to making a purchase like this, I will research the living crap out of it. I've been watching videos, reading, etc. I probably won't be able to swing a 6.7, but am looking into nice low mileage 7.3's. It's true, I'm not a diesel mechanic. But, through my regular mechanic in town - I've found "The Place" here that are the Diesel Mechanic Geniuses". They know Ford Powerstrokes backward and forward. I'm going to have them give the truck a complete exam. I'm very excited about learning more. You guys are a big help.

P.S. - A few years back, we were gonna buy a Bobcat for our small farm. I had driven a few, but didn't know much about them. It took me 6 months.......I talked to many of my farmer friends. I read articles online. Like now, I was in no hurry. I ended up getting a "steal" on a barely used diesel Bobcat that has now run perfect for 5 years. I've replaced 2 hydraulic hoses on it, installed a new block heater, and changed the oil & filters. The darn thing will most definitely out live me!

-Bob
 

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