So, with my wifes Sequoia down, we've been getting by with my truck and my oldest daughters car. Well, my wife was on her way back from work and said the CE light came on and it started running real rough and could barely get out of it's own way.

Daughter is picking her up, coming to get me, going to rental car(for my work)then I'll have her take me back to the truck and I'll see if I can limp it home. Or possibly see if the UVCH came loose and push it back together.

I'm hoping that's what it is, then I can get the UVCH ordered and get it fixed this week.

Anything else to check? I don't have a scanner.

 

Sounds like a good place to start. If it's UVCH, you can limp it home. You'll think it will shake the mirrors off, and I personally don't like driving them like that, but I've seen several that have been limped dozens of miles in that condition with seemingly no ill effects later on.

 

I drove mine for 10ish miles (more than I wanted) with no issues. Mine turned out to be the IDM wire harness rubbing on the drivers side valve cover. It wore through a wire and and would short out. A simple check would be to lift the harness off and see if there is a difference. Hopefully that's what it is because its a simple fix.

 

Got Lawrence limped home, 10.7 miles of mostly dirt roads. Had 2 inclines I was worried about, 1 the Lord helped on because everything ran normal, got over the hill and the SES light came back on with a shudder...

Pretty sure it's the drivers side UVCH because that is where my Pyro is at and it was only 100 degrees. Was gonna check temps with the iPhone FLIR adapter, but it's needing a charge.

Will have to start pulling parts tomorrow night after I get back from a site visit tomorrow.

Thank the Lord for mild weather, no snow to deal with!!

Now, where to buy the UVCH?

In my panic I forgot to mention I've done the .50 mod. Guess it lasted a few years!
More to come.

 

I'd get out the ohm meter and check things. A bad injector solenoid or chaffed wiring from the IDM around the 42 pin connector can also cause a bank to shut down. A bad injector soleniod typically ohms about .5 or so lower than all the others, but still may read within spec.

Also check for burnt or loose pins in the valve cover gasket pass through connector. If the problem is intermittent, you don't want to do all the work on what you think it is, just to have it act up again after you button it all back up.

 

 

 

 

 

Have you wrapped the harness to the 42 pin connector to protect it from rubbing the driver side valve cover. Maybe it's not under the cover?

 

 

Mine would run normal off and on. I initially thought it was the UVCH and checked it several (4) times and each time it would run fine for a day or so and then go back into rough running state.

 

Good to know.

Was yours running with 1 bank cold? I'm pretty sure it's the DS bank since my pyro only read 100*.

 

Yep, that's how I knew where to start looking, the drivers side stayed around 130*.