6.0 cylinder head cracking.
#1
6.0 cylinder head cracking.
I have a 2003 F250 with a 6.0 engine , it's completely stock with over 250,000 miles on it. I took it in to get an oil cooler replacement, it turned into them saying the heads were cracked and they're wanting the replacement Jasper engine ones from another vehicle, a newer truck. I was told that the 03 and 04 are known for cracking and replacing with a later model year will fix the problem if they've been resurfaced. Is there any truth what I've Been Told?
#3
#6
I just got to say everything I have read in this thread is incorrect and the method the shop is using is wrong. The only way to check for cracked heads is to magnaflux them. Also don't replace the heads with factory reman heads from Jasper. Get brand new promaxx heads for 895.00 each and move on. The shop sounds like they are trying to funnel fear into you for a better payday.
#7
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#8
Jasper heads have a 1 year unlimited warranty and no labor on heads is allowed and shipping is on the buyer. The promax heads are 3 month unlimited, however they are very problem free and have updated castings to prevent future cracks.
#10
If the shop told you that then they don't know the Jasper product. We stopped using jasper over 10 years ago because of the warranty denial rate. See attached Jasper warranty. Its 1 year and the labor is 100% on you and so is the shipping costs. Jasper knows this and it's also why Jasper has a very low warranty claim rate. There is also this which keeps their warranty rate low "submit a claim with the alleged defective parts shipped prepaid to JASPER for its review and sole determination". If you want some factory heads get them from ford. At least you get a 2/24k warranty.
#13
You end up liking the car, buying it, then they fix your car at cost and make a ton of money twice, on the new and old car.
In this case, they're just trying to upsell you on a headgasket job maximize their profit by using Jasper heads.
#15
Coolant pressure will max out on all of them when heating up, after it's fully warmed up if you release the pressure and it maxes out again that's an indication of a blown head gasket.
Fuel in the coolant is the indication of a cracked head.
Blend door problems are common which can cause no heat or no cold situations depending on which direction the door is stuck at.
Heater cores work in both directions, so coolant flowing backwards doesn't turn the heat off. There is also maybe a vacuum operated heater control valve under the hood which can shut off coolant to the heater core, I don't know if all years got them. A coolant problem that turns the heat off is either the coolant level is so low that it drops below the level of where the heater core is, or the valve is closed blocking flow.
Fuel in the coolant is the indication of a cracked head.
Blend door problems are common which can cause no heat or no cold situations depending on which direction the door is stuck at.
Heater cores work in both directions, so coolant flowing backwards doesn't turn the heat off. There is also maybe a vacuum operated heater control valve under the hood which can shut off coolant to the heater core, I don't know if all years got them. A coolant problem that turns the heat off is either the coolant level is so low that it drops below the level of where the heater core is, or the valve is closed blocking flow.