I'm just not into removing one thing to get to another in general, but headers that would require removal to get to the starter would undoubtedly ruin a starter at slow trail pace as well.

 

Does anyone know how a Pacesetter or Hedman header does in relation to starter clearance and ease of getting to spark plugs?

 

Just how low are we talking on the flotechs? Anybody got a side profile picture where you can see them hanging down?

 

Spark plug access isn't an issue with longtubes in general.

I have a side vies of the Flowtechs on my F150 somewhere, the big problem is that the collector ends up pointed right at the trans cross member and not very far away so getting the pipes attached is difficult at best.

Ok here are 2 pics, the first are the original Flowtechs from the '90s when they were a separate company. These fit beautifully in this AOD truck.



The next pic is with Flowtechs after Accel bought them out, this is what you get now. Look at how much further back and lower they are and the bend I had to use to get the pipe up over the crossmember.

 

Here is another side view, it would have almost be easier to go under the cross member. There is simply no need for these things to be that low.

 

I don't believe there is much difference in peak power between long tube and shorty headers. The difference seems to be the long tubes make a bit more torque at low RPM's. No matter which way you go, fit them in the vehicle first, before you send them out for ceramic coating. It is much easier to cut, weld and dimple them before they are coated.

 

That's what mine are like currently, although the trans makes a huge difference in space for routing. Mine started life around an m5od, and there was more than ample space to bring the drivers side under the trans before the crossmember. When I put a zf5 in, had to cut and lower the crossover a few inches. An e4od is probably worse than the zf5, so those are things to consider for sure. My y pipe is very easy to remove with this configuration, and I would think bringing the drivers side past the crossmember would make it much worse or require some breaks on the system to allow it to be dropped more easily.

 

Does anyone know if the Basanni equal length shorty would scavenge as well as a long tube, since the tubes are equal length?

 

them low ones look like a great set to run the pipes down the outside of the frame.

 

Negative...the longer the primary, the greater the scavenge. There is definitely a point where longer doesn't make much effect, and in fact could be counterproductive, but that doesn't really apply since space is the limiting factor in regard to pretty much any header.

Of course, there is a lot we could discuss that also impact power production...things like primary diameter, collector diameter and length. For instance, a header designed for a 408 race car with 2" primaries would not work well in a low rpm application. Something important to note: getting any scavenge out of those bassani headers would be a win....if they offered even 50% of what a comparable long tube design would offer considering shorties offer virtually none.

 

No and don't go there, those will be Mustang headers for starters which means they are not direct fit on a pickup and these things are a nightmare for plug wire routing and you can forget changing plugs without removing them.

 

All stock most of these truck engines never get to the rpm range(4500rpm +) where longtubes make more HP so you're buying them for their low rpm scaveging.

That is exactly what I did with the first set I bought.

 

andy011,
Please keep us posted on what you choose and how it works out. I'm going to have to make this same choice in the coming months, and I would appreciate any input.

 

I'll keep everyone posted. What I have narrowed it down to is either get a pacesetter 70-2223, get the EGR bung welded on, and then coated...or I will just keep a stock manifold. I have eliminated shorties all together. I found the following video useful. :
One of my big concerns is cost. I am estimating about an extra $1000 to go with long tube headers...Headers about $300, Bung weld about $100, Jet-hot coating about $300, then having someone make a custom Y-pipe...I'm guessing another $300 (I can't weld/fab any pipes myself.) I'm not sure the cost is going to be worth it over a stock manifold.

One more question I have, hopefully someone will have some guidance: Since I am using a Catalytic converter, then muffler...will the long tube header still provide any benefit, or will the restriction from the Cat eliminate any gains from the long tube header?

 

The long tubes will work great with a high flow cat....a straight through muffler would be better than a chambered muffler, and accompanied by a cat, the straight through muffler won't be that loud.