I replaced the 5A fuse In the #1 fuze position in the fuze strip on the dash for mirrors and still not working. Is there another fuze for the mirrors in the fuze/relay block under the hood? They just suddenly quit on me. Truck is always garage kept with 60,000 on it.

 

The online diagrams show 5 amp fuse 2 under the hood in the central junction box. It's always hot
The wire from fuse to switch is orange/light green

 

Welcome to FTE

Check the mirror L / Off / R, Side control switch, to make sure it didn't accidently get set to the Middle/Off position. Youngsters like to flip switches now days!!!! lol

If no joy with the switch being in the Off position, ^+1 idea to check fuses.

If still no joy, use, borrow, or come by the inexpensive but powerful ELM scan tool & running diagnostic freeware FORScan (that's tweaked for Fords ), on the viewing device of your choice as discussed here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html.
This very powerful diagnostic combo can access the GEM body controller that is responsible for powering the mirrors, to query it for trouble code clues that can help focus a trouble shoot.
This diagnostic combo can access All of the vehicle computer/controllers that lower end scan tools or code readers can't, so can help focus a trouble shoot. Post up All trouble code clue Numbers.

If you end up having to open things up for wiring checks, you can enter your vehicle info here, to access no cost wiring pictorials & TSB's, BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

More beginning trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

OK, thanks. Do you know if this a common problem? Kids are now in their 50's so no problem there.

 

Well its a common problem for you & I, as I too have had power mirror & power window woes on my 99 Ranger. Roger on the kids, but then there are Grand Kids that like to twiddle with switches even more!!!! Anyway make sure the Left/Right direction switch isn't in the Center/Off position.

Then tell us if Both sides won't work, or if one side works, or partially works & which side it is.

If neither side works, try switching from off, to say the passenger/R side several times & see if it'll clean the switch contacts & wake the switch up. Sometimes the plasticizers can bake out of plastic parts over time & corrupt the switch contacts such that they build up a high enough electrical resistance that the 12 volts we have to work with, suffers enough under load voltage drop across those contaminated contacts, that the motors won't have enough voltage to run. Also pick a side & do the same activation/wipe maneuver to the Up/Down & In/Out switches & see if you can wake one up, as that'll tell you if power is making it that far for that mirror.
If that's the case, we have two choices, replace the switch, or open that puppy up & clean the contacts with a plastic safe electrical contact cleaner, like CRC MAF Sensor spray, or maybe their QD electrical cleaner. I'd not spray/drench a plastic switch with those cleaners, but maybe apply to a clean, lint free, cosmetic foam swab. So you have reason to get into your wife's cosmetic tool box, without raised eyebrows, or being fussed at. lol
If no foam swabs available. trim a narrow strip from a New dollar bill, fit it between the suspect contacts & slowly pull it back & forth to clean the contacts. Don't touch the dollar bill cleaning surface with dirty fingers, you want the switch contact surface to be squeaky clean.
One member over on the TCCA forum used a brand new $50 bill to do this to clean his power window contacts, because he didn't have a new $1 bill!!!
He also dampened his strips with the CRC MAF sensor spray, as a final cleaning & got his power windows working, as I had done. SO, yes our Ford power whatever switches contacts have a history of building contact resistance over time & causing operational woes.

Will any of the up/down, In/out positions work for either mirror?

If no joy from any of the above, wait to come by the ELM to have it & FORScan focus the trouble shoot by scanning for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers.

A bunch more thoughts for pondering, let us know what you try & how it goes.

OH, the TCCA member didn't destroy the $50 bill Serial Numbers, so he just taped it back together & the bank replaced it. No I didn't use money to clean mine, but have cut strips off the border of a new bill to do emergency contact cleaning. Its just rough enough to clean well without removing any gold, or silver contact plating.
Just remembered, when touch tone phones just came out, the tone buttons would sometimes cause a misdial because of contact problems. It was found that bacteria had begun to grow because of a contaminated plating batch. SO, the fix was to clean them with 190 grain alcohol to clean & kill the bacteria, it worked!!!! So maybe consider alcohol if you don't have one of the CRC products.

 

Well, here is a new strange development. Went out today to detail the Ranger, backed out of the garage and just for kicks tried the mirrors. To my surprise both will go out now, but not in and I can hear the motors humming away during the movement. Guess this means there is power to the switch I would say. Smells like a new door switch is in order and will try the cleaning also. Sure appreciate the help.

 

Ok good feedback. Will they also move up & down? If so all 4 mirror motors are ok, they just have a switching, or wiring problem. Seeing as how they aren't moved very often, it's usually a switch contact, or wire run problem, not a wear problem.

 

Went out and forgot to check the mirrors and just did so and they go up and down with no problem. Perhaps now to figure which color wires into switch control everything and go from there. Loose wires, etc.

 

Ok more good feedback & to hear the up/down switches are working, so it says all is well with that part of the mirror circuit switch contacts, wiring & motor.
Refer to post #3 link for wiring color codes & switch pin out connections to do a wiring run wiggle test, in case you have a wire run problem. Where the wiring harness bends as it passes between the door hinge & body is a good place to begin & let us know what you find. If no joy, try removing the mirror switch & cleaning the switch contacts with a plastic safe non residual cleaner, like the ones mentioned earlier & let us know how it goes.

 

OK thanks much.

 

The switches themselves go bad. Ford has used that same switch for MANY years! I've replaced countless numbers of them. Do yourself a HUGE favor and get an OEM switch, the Chinese ones won't last a year!

 

OK, thanks

 

Supercab, other than a Ford dealer (not close), is there a good on line source for these OEM switches?

 

YES!! Either Ebay or I HIGHLY recommend Autonation Ford White bear lake parts; They are the cheapest OEM Ford parts seller going, always take great care of me!!

 

Great and thanks. Been searching the web, but sites have no mention of if it is OEM, or not so this is the ticket.