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Hello my 2003 F250 SuperCab 6.0 diesel runs great with 157,000 easy high way miles on it. It was driven in snow country so the bed is all rusted out on the inside.Outside fenders looks great though. The cab is starting to rust underneath also but looking at the truck you can only see one cab corner has rusted through. I just got the truck inspected with even the emissions and it passed ,looks great from 10 feet away. Interior is like new. Just can't beat the rust underneath. I really don't feel comfortable selling to some kid because it looks good,chrome package and all or taking it to a junk yard to get rid of because I am the original owner and the truck has always been good to me. Never once broke down or have the check engine light come on....I still drive the truck ,but only about every other we or so. I have another new truck that I drive regularly ,so paying insurance on both really doesn't make sense. New ford diesel truck prices are insane,so I will never be able to do that again.
Just not sure what to do at this point.
If you’re set on getting rid of it, some dealerships may pay you for it if you don’t want to sell it privately. As long as you disclose the known issues, I wouldn’t worry about selling it in a private sale. There’s lots of talented people out there that may actually want a project truck.
If it were me, it's already rusted out. Drive it in the winter and let the new truck hide away from the salt. Drive it until it can't pass inspection anymore. I certainly wouldn't be driving anything remotely new with how much garbage they spray on your roads in the winter.
My new truck is a lease so I don't mind driving in the winter. I really wish back in the day that I put the Ford away in the winter and just drove the lease truck. I am giving back the lease truck in another year and will get another new lease truck to drive in the winter. My new truck is also gas. My Ford diesel would always start easy in the cold winter. If I went to work for 8 to 12 hours,no where to park to plug in the engine warmer. I always didn't like to start it not plugged in. It Would bang like its going to blow up, zero degrees outside but no choice at the time. .I did that one day when it was almost new Ford truck and swore I would never do that again. So I just avoid the winter now. Let the lease truck take the beating....
I’ve got a 2006 F350 that became pretty much a dedicated plow truck in 2010 when I got another F350. The 2006 only has about 63,000 miles on it.
I had a tailgate salter on the 2006 for about three years, and they use salt in the roads here. The truck is starting to get rust like what you describe your truck as getting. I actuslly had a mechanic inspect it this past summer because my main concern is that something important will fall apart due to the rust. I figure at best the truck is worth about $3,000 (a 5.4l gasser), so it won’t be worth fixing once it does fall apart.
you can not stop RUST... only slow it down.. ask the U.S. Navy.. !
outside looks has NOTHING to do with the workings of your truck..
its like a girlfriend. may look great.. but she can NOT cook, clean.. or take care of YOU... whats the point..
I have LOST several great vehicles from the dreaded RUST..
Put it up for sale, & don't worry about who buys it. Anyone buying a 15 year old truck with 157,000 miles will know to look for rust & other issues, & will pay accordingly.
Every brand of vehicle had their issues. I’ve just come to accept that my fords are going to rust much faster than my vehicles of other brands. I had an e150 with 150k miles on it that had rust holes in the floor big enough for a cat to fall through. My Nissan van has 240k miles on it and has no rust at all. Same for my Mazda b2000 that had 200k on it when I sold it. I would trade it in before the rust gets so bad that it has no value at all.
All new trucks need to have the "Krown" or "Corrosion Free" treatment right off the lot, period.
I wish Ford would offer a Salt/Rustbelt/Northeast winterization option. Such as rear inner wheel wells, Deletion of the foam in the inner rear wells and Krown.
Id pay extra for it. If you don't treat these trucks when new or very close to new you will be looking at rot in 5 years period, in the rustbelt.
The design of most pickups promotes rust...you don't think the manufacturers are gonna do anything about it...that's like shooting one's own foot off. Hell, they've been packing the rear fender wells with the sponge-like shizt and installing pre-rotted bed rails for years now.
The Krown is wonderful. Highly recommended. Best $150/annual dollars I've ever spent. They really sauced mine up this year. Poor dealers equipment was not performing right. It either put it on too thin or too thick according to the technician. I told him to sauce the hell out of it...he did!
Purchase the FoMoCo plastic rear wheel liners too, they don't suck!. Those should be standard issue! Those were a mere $130. They deflect a lot of the road crud.
Narrowfarm, unfortunately, its likely junk and unsafe or getting very close to it. You will put more into it than its worth to fix the rot. Crush it or part it and buy a new used Arizona or southern clean safe truck and annually Krown the hell out of it. It will wear out before it rots as you lucky desert southwest guys get to experience.
edit OMG! there should be 3 pics of my Krowned undercarriage here but I can't figure out this lovely new picture uploading gymnastics some geek decided was a better procedure than the old simple one...these are just JPGs. They look like they are loading. They go to 100% then I hit upload and nothing and they disappear! GAH! I tried drag n drop and uploading from device...no luck.
Anyone care to enlighten the electronically challenged!
FIXED after an hour or so to research. The pictures need to be resized. Once that's done uploading is no problem. Had to use smallest size.
Get this pic resizer installed in your windows based computer.
droldsmorland brings up a good point about the wheel wells. I've noticed other brands have much better protection in the wheel wells than Ford does. My 2007 is absolutely horrible about containing any kind of mud or snow. I am pretty diligent about keeping the undercarriage and wheel wells clean and painted but it takes a lot of effort that I wish I didn't have to do.
To load pictures don't use the Go Advanced tab, then Manage Pictures tab. This is the old upload procedure.
Instead simply click on the square icon next to the smiley face in the toolbar above the text box which you are typing in. Then follow the simple instructions.
Yes, its easier but would be nice if and when a procedure is changed someone makes us aware of it versus letting us guess. All of the Internet Brands sites are the same and did the same thing.
The Microsoft free image resizer works well with MS. Compressing the pics will improve the uploading experience as well.
Rust sucks if they did not put as much salt and brime down rust would not be a big problem . Ford and Dodge seems to rust out faster than other brands I have owned just about every make truck over the years .
I try and hose the trucks down after every storm , I also use one of those garden hose wands that has the 3ft extension with adjustable sprays to clean under the trucks ... does a pretty good job .
If you have rust try some POR15 products is pretty good stuff .
I just read an article about magnesium chloride working its way into the bead of the tire and ruining alloy wheels.Who ever thought you would have to replace your wheels due to deicing the roads.
I take the truck to a car wash and use rinse under and over to get the Magnesium Chloride rinsed off. Colorado DOT web page gives advice on Winter vehicle protection. CDOT recommends a rinsing immediately or ASAP after the vehicle has been exposed to Magnesium Chloride and I'm sure the same would be for road Salt. Maybe it helped you get home or destination, but don't let it eat your lunch too.
Metal Corrosive Test results between Magnesium Chloride (MgCl2) and Sodium Chloride (NaCl) (Salt) found Magnesium Chloride to be more corrosive in wet/damp climates and less corrosive in dryer climates.
In Colorado, they use Magnesium Chloride.
Support Document:
The project consisted of two phases. In the Phase I study, the relative corrosiveness of the two salts were examined by SAE J2334 test and ASTM B117 test. In the Phase II study, SAE J2334 test and NACE TM-01-69 test (as modified by the Pacific North States) were applied. Representative metals examined in the project included stainless steel 410 and 304L, aluminum 2024 and 5086, coated automobile body sheets, copper wires, and mild steels.
Experimental results of SAE J2334 test indicated that MgCl2 was more corrosive than NaCl to the bare metals tested. However, the experimental results of ASTM B117 test showed opposite conclusions. Because of the conflicting conclusions, further tests were conducted using NACE TM-0169 (as modified by the Pacific Northwest Snowfighters). Again, opposite conclusions were obtained from SAE J2334 and NACE TM-01-69 tests. In order to investigate the causes responsible for the inconsistency, the experimental conditions of both SAE J2334 and NACE TM-01-69 tests were modified and various modified modes of the two tests were conducted.
It was found that the inconsistency in the test results was not a result of different chemical concentrations of chloride solution, different immersion times, testing periods, or testing temperatures. The inconsistency was attributed to the different moisture conditions and different properties of the two salts under high humidity environment. There are three basic moisture conditions in the three testing methods used in the project: dry, wet (saturated moisture), and dip (immersion). Since the MgCl2 solution has higher viscosity and stronger hydraphilicity than the NaCl solution, it is much easier for the MgCl2 solution to stick and crystallize on the surface of the metals under the dry condition, and then become solution on the metal surface under the wet condition. This dry-wet effect is responsible for the different corrosion behaviors of MgCl2 under different testing conditions.
Therefore, depending on service conditions experienced by automobile components, MgCl2 is more corrosive than NaCl under humid environments, and NaCl is more corrosive under immersion and arid environments. This conclusion was obtained based on the experiments with the deicing salts used in the state of Colorado.
Implementation Study findings resulted in specification changes for deicing chemicals used by CDOT. The new specification on corrosiveness requires magnesium chloride used by CDOT to be no more corrosive than sodium chloride on aluminum and stainless steel as tested by the NACE TM-01-69 method.
12-01-2018, 08:04 AM
