So I was driving too fast (about 45-50 MPH) over a stretch of road with fresh chip seal (following and leading other drivers doing the same), when traffic in the opposing direction had the audacity to do likewise. For those who have experienced this before, you can figure what happened - about half a dozen chips, and one crack from a really big flying rock. Looking around the near-empty cab for somebody to blame for the spider-webbed windshield - I found the culprit when I peered into the reflection on the Torque Pro screen. I ran with it for months, but I decided to get it squared away for an upcoming road trip (want to see stuff).

Not having a lot of time to run vehicles all over the place, nor a weekday to sit in a waiting room - I went online with Safelite and ordered up a repair in the parking lot at work. That was a great experience - the communication and service was outstanding, and it couldn't be more convenient. Log on, surf, click, fill stuff out, wait, then swipe the card after the work was done right there in my parking spot.

Service... the whole point of this thread. The technician called me out when he spotted an issue. He told me the old windshield came out a little too easy, so he investigated. He found rust on the frame across the top, and he had a step ladder there so I could see for myself. While up there and listening to him discuss the significance of the rust, my head went all squirrel. "I should have had some 16-gauge cable ready, I could feed that bad boy into the header and the gap between the A-Pillar and the frame - it would be so easy with the windshield out." What I got was "rust 16-gauge seal wire primer A-pillar prevent header leaks" - but I speak fluent squirrel, so I'll translate that for ya:

The rust can build under the seal of the windshield, which can compromise the seal against moisture. This is one of the leading causes of leaky windshields, even when freshly replaced. If it's not spotted and addressed at the time of replacement, then they are in essence "caulking" glass on top of rust.. What the technician did (after he told me the plan) was Dremmel all the rust down to bare metal, then he hit it with fast-drying primer. Once that was done, he could then coat the whole frame with the foundation they use before adhering the glass. He called me out once more for final inspection before installing the glass, and I notice filled seams in the lower corners. Those seams in the lower corners lead me to suspect this might be a common fail point, and why we have so GEM threads. Add that to the rust revelation, and I might now understand the problem better.

Moral of the story: If you want your windshield frame inspected - driving fast on chip seal oughtta do it.

 

Safelite is very convenient, I've used them three times in the past five years twice on the Excursion and once on my DD ( and I need to call them again).

 

Good information! My windshield is the original and has man small chips from the 20 years in place. I've been waiting for a crack to initiate the change but now have another reason to consider swapping.

 

You make it sound like a windshield replacement just for preventative maintenance would not be a bad idea.

 

 

We have been a customer of Safelite twice in the past few years. Great company to do business with in our opinion.

 

As I read this, SRBF150 has "many" chips, and this could be the tipping point to address them.

 

I used safelite 3 times on my wifes car.... on the same windshield. Mobile guys 2x and then finally took it to an office so they could get it right.

 

I have read where a couple of guys who found serious corrosion in the windshield frame when getting a windshield replaced or resealed. I'm thinking that it might be cost effective to just have it resealed as a preventative move against the corrosion.

 

 

Rich brings up a good point. I've had several windshields replaced here in Birmingham over the past 12 years, and each time, the windshield tech finds a small amount of surface rust in small patches under the windshield adhesive, even though I live in an almost rust-free region. In other words, where I've experienced paint chips down to the metal, it takes about 4 years for surface rust to start showing up, and that's with the truck ALWAYS outside. The point of me sharing that background is this... I still get the surface rust patches every time a glass is changed, and each time, the tech scrubs those places down to bare metal with a wire wheel on a drill, and then treats that area with two coats of fast-drying primer before installing the new bead of adhesive and installing the new glass -- just like Rich experienced. I've had this service from both Safelite and other indy shops.

Make sure the glass seating area is carefully inspected to avoid perpetuated rust regions in the hidden crevices under your glass.

 

This is a question for everyone...I understand safelite auto glass is from china.
Please respond...where do they get their glass?
Colorado350, with your buddy, you may be the most qualified to have insight.

 

 

I use to read on here not to use safelite because of the installed not being, something? Don't remember now. But I to need a windshield because of chips over the years. Would like OEM quality glass, do they stack up? Thanks for your help.

 

Well... it rained here for two days straight through the weekend. I'm about to find out when I hop in the truck for work.