I've seen a few old threads on here about this issue, but they're all either different or unsolved. This is my father's 2004 F150, 172k on it, and I'm trying to get it fixed for him. He got it with about 160k on it a few months ago and since then it's had a high oil consumption, about a quart every 1-2 weeks, and smoke like crazy out the tail pipe. What concerns me is the inconsistency of the smoke pattern. Some days it's fine and other days it has a little puff and that's it, then there are times when there's a big cloud the size of the truck. From what I can see, it's light grey/white so I'm trying to figure out if it's oil, coolant, or just condensation. The coolant level hasn't changed since I've been driving it for the past two months. Plugs were changed about 6k ago with E3's and ran better than the fouled plugs that were in it for God knows how long. Tail pipe is charred with a light film of soot/ash/black powdery. Im just trying to figure out exactly what will make this engine happy instead of throwing parts and money at it.

 

Well I would do a compression test /dry and wet . You need to see if you crankcase vent system working . Most are in drivers side valve cover as a baffle .The fresh filtered air enters pass side valve cover and is vacuumed out of drivers side valve cover . Maybe some one has miss connected this system . Or maybe lines plugged creating press in crankcase . No telling what kind of oil is being used ,5w-20 or 30 is normal . People overfill and use heavy oils that this engine will not tolerate .You must change oil often in this engine ,cams are controlled by hydraulic system using dirty engine oil .5k mi or 4 months .It is not unusual to burn 1-2 quarts per 5k .never let it get low.
I guess you need to see of its leaking or burning the majority of oil ..Could be rings /valve seals/ head gasket .
Many guys do not follow up to give us their final fix ,they just move on .
With fouled plugs you know its burning some oil .,but why is going to take some digging and testing . Try to pin down which plugs are fouling ,which side of engine or both sides
Some good mechanics on here can give you more help.We have very-very experienced guys on here that have worked on 100's of these engines They may lead you thru some tests and fixes .Depends on what you are willing to do. That engine should not be worn out at this mi ,Mine has 197k on it and I.m looking at getting to 300k .Some guys have gotten 400-500k without trouble --lucky B-----ds .

 

If you get this problem resolved we can give you some advice on better treatment for this truck . And it will not be junk e3 plugs

 

Agreed. Stick with motorcraft. Also, any mechanic can check your coolant for carbon, indicating a head gasket leak. Like the oil, coolant needs to be changed regularly on any motor with aluminum heads on an iron block. If not, electrolysis will turn coolant acidic, which then will eat at the head gasket.

 

Alright I'll start with a compression test. Any ideas of where I should be psi-wise? I'll give my wet /dry results when I get them.
Ever since we've had it we've only used 5w-20. To my knowledge, when the oil is at the bottom hole on the dipstick adding one quart will bring it to the top hole. Is that correct? Based on that logic, it usually will go from the top hole to the bottom hole in a week or so. I filled it yesterday and I'll report the mileage next time it gets low.
The plugs are the ones where they're longer and narrower than normal plugs, with a 9/16" drive. They have the band that goes over the whole plug, versus the standard gapable ones. When we pulled them out, there was junk in the whole band. I'll see if I can find a pic.
I definitely appreciate the help, and I'll follow through with any fixes.

 

Taken after the crap was scraped out of the plug.

 

use nothing but sp546 mc and new boots . Plugs must be done hosp clean . Best to use carb cleaner on area of cly that seizes plug tip , it dissolves carbon . Carbon will break plugs going in and out . This is not related to oil consumption .
Compression test is relative ,one cly versus another .Wet test sees if its a ring problem . Oil can be leaking out but you have excessive smoke and fouling . Need to see where its at,both sides etc .
Agreed that's way too much oil drop .If things are not right its possible to suck the oil out of the crankcase thru venting system .Who knows if somebody fooled with that . .We need to see if its one side like a valve seal or a piston ring .
More than likely that's why the previous owner dumped it .Me I would put some marvel mystery oil in it can't hurt . I like the stuff . My bet is a head job and gasket .
Some smarty pants will give you some better answers here --.just joking .I have a lot of respect for the motor heads on here .
Did someone modify system add a catch can etc .

 

Oil fill- just don't over fill it . Keep it between the indicators on the stick . Most of us carry a couple of quarts in the engine compartment . Too full is worse than low.

 

Just one little thing about the dip stick; its not one of Ford's 'better ideas'. The bottom hole indicates the lowest acceptable oil level and the top hole indicates the highest acceptable oil level. No mark is provided for the correct oil level which is actually exactly between the two marks. Since you don't know how to do an oil refill, along with most of the mechanics in the world, I'll be glad to clue you all in.
First you drain the old oil and replace the oil filter. Then you put the exact amount of new oil in that is stated in the owner's manual. In the case of my 4.2L it is 6 qt. Then you start the engine and check for leaks. After the engine runs for a few minutes turn the engine off and do something else for about five minutes, then check the oil level. Now this is all contingent on the truck being on a level surface. The oil level will be exactly between the upper and lower indicators. If the truck is not on a level surface the reading will be skewed one way or the other. You will of course remember this and every time you change the oil at that same spot it will come out to that same reading. In case you have to change the oil in a different location that is not level and for which you don't have any idea where the level will end up on the stick, just forget the stick. You know how much you put in and you know its right.
Now if you let anybody else change the oil and you don't watch their every move, you better check it before you leave that place and also do your own leak check.

 

A replacement long block engine will solve the issue. The rings are done and so is the catalyst system. All the symptoms are from long term neglect and dirt intake from the air intake.

 

Agreed
Most people can't take on a head job and piston rings ,too much work on this older engine .So he would check crankshaft end play early on and if its excessive its over ..If he is lucky maybe one head job and timing job will do it, if its valve seal failure or even a head gasket . If he can do a lot of the work yes ,if not reman is the way to go .If he can get a good guy to change engine reasonably .
Yes, cats are probably shot ,and if he lives in an inspection area that's a big problem. He should realize all of this before spending too much money .Plus what is the overall condition of this truck?

 

The truck is in great condition. The interior looks brand new and the exterior is nice If it comes down to just needing a head gasket or so that's fine, I'll set a weekend aside. If it involves removing the block and /or replacing it, probably going to reevaluate how much the truck is worth to us.

 

Head gasket isn't a weekend project, there was a recent thread about it. Without being able to pull the engine or lift the cab it's a real hard task. With that much oil being burned it's not a head gasket.

 

If, at the very least, it needs a head gasket it would be easier and about the same cost to pick up a reman'd motor off of Rock Auto and drop it in.

And FWIW, I agree with ford390gashog. You have a much bigger issue than just a head gasket.

 

There's nothing easy to do here . A good timing job is 1400 in parts . Head work ??? A reman can be had for 3200 without install and the extra's fluid /manifold stuff / moving over tb /intake /hoses /gaskets . And if crank end play excessive there's no way to beat it . A complete reman install runs 7k to 8.5 k. CATS are another story.
Sorry if we bring bad news .That is a lot of oil loss.