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Ray,
Unlike are old trucks which came with single cylinder masters these trucks still have working brakes on the opposite end when something like this happens, unless the fronts are in the same condition and also let go.
There are a lot of choices out there for brakes, similar to oil choices.
I installed Hawk LTS pads on drilled and slotted rotors for the front and rear. The truck does very well on grades towing heavy and the brakes are still performing great 4 years after installation.
Choose wisely and take your time choosing as this is a very important system for your truck.
I'd be looking at both rear rotors and calipers. Your going to have the system open anyway and just a big why not. As mentioned above, if your rears are that toasted, your fronts are 60 pct ahead of them.
If it's a patch job, do the one that's toast. If you can swing it, do an inspection on the fronts because we don't have the history on the truck, (they may be newer).
I sure wouldn't go top shelf if it's a daily. Get the warranted parts locally.
I do things in pairs always, but depends on your situation at the time.
Denny
Ray,
Unlike are old trucks which came with single cylinder masters these trucks still have working brakes on the opposite end when something like this happens, unless the fronts are in the same condition and also let go.
Dave, the OP said he had no brakes after the rear blew. This suggested to me that his front brakes had failed sometime in the past and he was running with rear brakes only when they failed. Thanks for confirming. We know nothing about the vehicle history, as mentioned. And as suggested, a complete inspection and or overhaul of the entire brake system is in order.
Dave, the OP said he had no brakes after the rear blew. This suggested to me that his front brakes had failed sometime in the past and he was running with rear brakes only when they failed. Thanks for confirming. We know nothing about the vehicle history, as mentioned. And as suggested, a complete inspection and or overhaul of the entire brake system is in order.
Complete inspection will be tomorrow morning when the shop opens.
I'm going to pull the trigger on the Auto Zone rotors+ deal. And work on fixing the rears only.
The truck will be daily driven next year or as soon as I get it into good health. So no need for high performance or tow heavy setup
If you get them off of a local outfit you can take the old one in with you. IIRC my NAPA store wanted to know the diameter of the rotor, but that's NAPA, not Advance Auto or Auto Zone...
Replacing the rear, Rotors, Calipers, Hoses, and adding new Pads. Total Cost is $300 for Labor and Brake Fluid Refill/Flush (I brought my own parts).
"Recommendation" for the front; New Brake Pads only. Rotors and Calipers are not great but just ok. Something I can work on at home. Specially since E99 Front Rotors Differ from L99.
I had some O'Reilly rotors with Hawk LTS pads for the rear and they ended up glazing over. The front Hawk LTS with Powerslot Cryo rotors haven't had an issue. New rear set is Motorcraft Severe duty pads and Centric High carbon Rotors. Centric is the same brand as Power Slot and Stoptech. I prefer them as they have black center's and rotor hat's no rusting.
At least you and the family are safe.
That rotor looks like it came off an antique corn sheller.
I bought a set of the Z36 Power Stop rotors and pads from Summit last year that are drilled and slotted and they are doing well stopping my truck while towing heavy. I actually called them and ask about why they have drilled and slotted rotors on their system designed for towing and they said the quality of the rotor material allowed them to drill and slot without the fear of them cracking while gaining the benefits of the design.
That rotor looks like it came off an antique corn sheller.
I bought a set of the Z36 Power Stop rotors and pads from Summit last year that are drilled and slotted and they are doing well stopping my truck while towing heavy. I actually called them and ask about why they have drilled and slotted rotors on their system designed for towing and they said the quality of the rotor material allowed them to drill and slot without the fear of them cracking while gaining the benefits of the design.
Bill, I knew that rotor reminded me of something but couldn’t figure it out and you nailed it AND dated the both of us.
On the subject of pads and rotors how many here take the time to perform the burnishing process?
I did mine per the instructions with the kit and I’m not sure if it helped but there is zero vibration and they are doing well so I will do it from now on with new rotors.
On the subject of pads and rotors how many here take the time to perform the burnishing process?
Never done it and never had an issue. Some 'specialty' pads are said to really benefit from it, I've never used those. Maybe they all benefit from it, but I haven't seen the evidence.
11-25-2018, 02:34 PM
