I asked him to run a jumper wire from the battery + to the coil and then try it, and he said that didn't work. The only other place he could be losing power would be to the module, but apparently he did not try that. Both of those tests would eliminate or point to the ignition switch or the wiring. If he jumped both the coil + and the module + and it would not run, that would definitely point to something else like the pickup in the dist. I have seen the module do this also, but he said he replaced it.

 

 

I got a new pickup coil for the dist, but when i pulled out my dizzy there was no pickup coil in it?? Is there somehow an external pickup coil? There are not even hookups fir the new coil anywhere

 

No wires coming from the dist. Or anything

 

Well no wonder why it does not run.
Kidding aside there has to be wires coming out of the dist. if not then they got yanked out look around for them.
Also can you post pictures of the dist. and inside it with the cap off to see if it has the pickup coil with no wires.
Dave ----

 

The pickup coil is under the flange for the advance weights and stuff. The shaft has to come out ie knocking out roll pins etc.
i tried to do it and destroyed the distributor and just bought a new one. Fifty bucks.

 

Wow the how not to diagnostic the Duraspark thread.

Instead of taking shots in the dark do some diagnosing.

First thing you will is a volt ohm meter. Ether digital or analog

Check for Voltage at the red and white wire harness plug at the ICM
The White should have batt voltage when the ignition is in the start position. If not repair circuit or adjust/replace the ignition switch
At the Run position the red should have batt voltage If not repair circuit or adjust/replace the ignition switch



If that checks out
Check for voltage at the batt side of the coil. (red wire)
In the start position it should be batt voltage If not repair circuit or adjust/replace the ignition switch
In the run position it should be 6-8V If not repair circuit or adjust/replace the ignition switch/starter relay

If all that is good then it is component failure Since the pick up is suspect we will start thereMeasure the resistance between the Orange and Purple wires (two parallel prong) on the distributor harness. If the reading is not between 400-800 Ohms replace the pickup coil. Generally a good rule of thumb is anything under 600 ohms it should be replaced.
Next is to test the Ground the Black wire (horizontal prong in the distributor harness) is the ground this is also a ground for the ICM. Check for resistance between this prong and the neg battery terminal it should show continuity. If it shows more than 0.3 ohms repair the ground.
Next is to measure the resistance between the pick up wires orange and purple and the ground (blick wire) do each one separately to the black wire (ground) any measurement under 70,000 (70K) ohms replace the pick up.
If all that checks out time to check the coil. I know it is new, but new does not mean good.

Remove the Harness. wires from the coil.
Test the primary side of the coil (the wire terminals) it should read between 1.13-1.23 ohms if not replace the coil.
Next text the secondary side
Between the negative terminal (the one the Green wire went to) and coil tower. resistance should be between 7000-13,000 (7k-13K) ohms.
If all this checks out get back to us there are a couple more tests that can be done......

 

Uh no the reluctor just has to come off. This can just be levered off with a couple flat blade screwdrivers. It is located by a roll pin. Not sure what you were doing but you have to pull this before you can disassemble the dist.

 

Fair enough, right is right. I thought the shaft had to come out.

I wasn't successful anyway

 

That's not a power wire for the module, that is the 12v signal to the module that the engine is cranking, and it retards the timing in the module so it turns over easier.

 

There is no cranking spark retard in the blue strain relief Duraspark Box. The white strain relief DS box is the one with cranking spark retard, Motorcraft PT number DY250.
The crank input for the DS box adjusts the dwell for the coil so it can take full advantage of the 12V supplied during crank to maximize spark output..

 

How was i able to get spark with the wires not connected to the dist? Because i dont see any wires

 

That is one of the peculiarities of the DS system when it is unpowered the coil has ground as soon as it is powered this ground is interrupted and the coil can fire...once.

 

So we all pretty much agree that its prolly the pickup coil?