What temperature Thermostats
#16
Part of your problem is your water flow may be backwards. Hot water comes from the head (typically that is where the shutoff valve is located, not at the pump), goes through the heater core, then returns to the engine at the water pump. The pump pulls the water through the heater system from the head. The "cold" water is then sent back into the engine with the water from the lower rad.
#17
Depending which heater you have, reverse flow thru the heater wouldn't affect it's perfomance. Flow is normally from the lower connection to the heater core, to push any air out . The box style heaters have a horizontal core so there is no low side.
There is always more pressure at the head connection than at the water pump, so flow will always be from head to pump.
I'd guess you'll have no problem taking the valve off the pump to work on it, if it's stuck closed.
There is always more pressure at the head connection than at the water pump, so flow will always be from head to pump.
I'd guess you'll have no problem taking the valve off the pump to work on it, if it's stuck closed.
#18
The first thing to check, imo, is to see if your valve at the water pump is open. My guess is that it's closed or at least not open enough, and the little bit of hot water you're getting is from percolation effect, just enough to give you some heat, but not enough to get real warm since the water isn't actually circulating. That's my take on your description of the hoses being hot near the engine, but cold at the heater. Having the shut off valve at the wrong end will also let this same effect happen in the summer, when you really don't want any hot water going to the heater. If it were me, I'd pull the valve from the water pump and replace it with a standard nipple, and put new, or at least a known good working valve at the head, then test the core and hoses for flow.
The thermostat is there to regulate the minimum engine temperature. If your 140F temp is accurate, I would put in hotter thermostats.
#19
Just a quickie, my stats are 160f .Tested and working properly. I agree with all. I will drain the system again and try to remove the valve at water pump to to test it. Maybe I could quickly pull the hose from that junction and see if anything pours from the water pump before draining the whole system.
#20
You are on the right track. If the valve is open then you have an air pocket. With the engine at operating temp, you can bleed the air at the heater/hose connection. I use one of those hose removal tools(hook) and insert it under the hose just enough to let any air out. Can be a bit messy, but works.
#21
#22
When I installed the heater in my COE it had an air pocket....this was the only way I could get it to work as the heater is way higher than the engine.
#23
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Suffolkman
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