Greetings all. I have a quick, hopefully, simple question. At what point is a turbo no longer rebuildable and needs to be replaced? When I purchased my current rig it came with the turbo that was locked up tightly. I soaked it in PB Blaster and was able to eventually gently work it free. Finally, I rebuilt it with a reputable kit that included the 360 degree thrust bearing.. Everything "seemed" good to go.

However, after I reinstalled it and noticed two things:

1. I had an oil leak down the back side of the motor that I never could quite find.
2. It smoked pretty consistently and the smoke was blue-ish.I just assumed it was something internal, but now I'm wondering is the turbo the culprit.

NOTE: I DID install all new gaskets as they relate to the turbo. Thus, the reason why I ask the question above.

I appreciate your thoughts and comments.

Thanks!

 

Im not a turbo rebuild expert but sounds like you have a turbo seal issue if always blue smoke

Back side leaks could be turbo, pedestal, EBPV, rail plug, HPOP line, VC or a fuel leak looking like oil. Need to clean area good and find it.

 

 

There is a limit for their endplay. My pal just dealt with this on an MB Diesel of his. Spec was quite tight around 0.008", his was about 0.014" from memory...car always ate oil even with the turbocharger rebuilt. I had a spare laying around, gave it to him. It was rebuilt again, endplay was around 0.003" now. Car does not consume oil.

IMO, not worth the hassle (read: cost) to have a TP38 rebuilt with oversized bearings. I am sure T4 swap guys on here would be happy to get one out of their garage for next to nothing.



Agreed on exhaust all possible options before pulling turbocharger again. You can pick up a delete pedestal and flange for about $160 on ebay, I did.

Can also spy in downpipe to see if full of oil.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but do you mean the cartridge or shaft upon which the compressor wheel spins?

 

 

10-4!! Gotcha!!

 

I agree with this.

when you pull them its easy to figure out where its leaking from though.

And when its leaking from the backside of the motor there are 2 reasons,
Warped pedestal, didn't use new o-rings on oil galley, or bad center section.

These are super easy to rebuild though.
There can be other things that are toast also.

I'd get a replacement pedestal and turbo if you want to keep it stock. And you can get the delete pedestal and be done with that oil issue right off the get go.

 

Get it from here it's cheaper.
https://www.spturboost.com/collectio...sing-1994-1997

 

 

I didn't even see it was a complete CHRA in the link you posted Mike. Better price yet OP.

 

Yeah, I know there are several out there. I for one literally have given a few good cores away. I see people selling them for good money and just are in awe somebody will actually pay money for a stocker. Just look around for a good candidate for a rebuild. These guys are steering you correct imo

 

Except this won't fit an OBS unless you do the Freakify mod.

 

 

Dorman stuff is usually pretty poor quality. I would be very apprehensive to use that.

IMO, I would rather drive with a smoking/oil using Garrett CHRA while waiting for someone to offer yours up for a reasonable cost.

Hell, I at times see complete TP38s on craigslist here for $250.