Rust situation under my Ď96 F150 Eddie Bauer - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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Rust situation under my Ď96 F150 Eddie Bauer

  #1  
Old 11-12-2018, 07:48 PM
ryanissamson
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Rust situation under my Ď96 F150 Eddie Bauer

Hello, all. Iíve been posting the progress as I fix up my grandfatherís truck that I recently took ownership of. In my last post, I mentioned that I ordered rear leaf spring mounts to replace and while driving, the front right suspension popped and the truck sagged. It was suggested that I record a video to show the rust under the truck, so Iíve done that.

First, apologies for the video orientation, I thought it started in landscape and didnít know it wasnít until I started to upload. I recorded in between my kidsí dinner and bedtime, so I was a bit rushed. If the video isnít terribly helpful, I will re-record tomorrow in daylight.

Second, itís a bit long, because I was wheeling under and around. Feel free to skip through.

Essentially, Iím looking for honest feedback on how the truck compares against other northern F150s if itís age. There is the sentimental value, but if the truck is beyond salvaging in terms of scraping rust/replacing parts within reason, then I want to accept that early on. There does appear to be bad rust in some places, but then not so much in others. Iím just not sure what is ďacceptableĒ.

Thanks!

 
  #2  
Old 11-12-2018, 08:17 PM
GoinBoarding
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The truck looks serviceable to me. The frame looks OK. I saw some body rot, likely floor boards. To make it like-new might be more effort than it's worth but I think it's got life left in it after you address some issues. Especially if you stop driving it in the salt bath that is the midwest/northeast during winter once it's repaired.

The driver side front spring tower has been replaced; notice it is bolted on and not very rusty. The passenger side tower has completely failed and the coil spring has punch through the top. Don't drive it anymore until you fix this. The spring retainer clip is still in place on it, but the spring "moved", thus it looks off as you first noted in a previous thread. If it were mine, I would be looking at replacing the failed spring tower, likely both coils ($70 for a set of Moog's), take a close look at & consider replacing the radius arms (especially the stud that is hidden under the radius arm bushings), and replace all the rear leaf mounts (strongly consider: front & rear mounts, shackles, leafs, and new U-bolts). The rear-rear leaf mounts have a cupped design that hold moisture/salt and rot readily. They break and the leafs can then punch holes in the bottom of the bed. Once the suspension can safely support the truck, a set of shocks, and an alignment should make it a decent driving truck. Scrutinize the steel brake lines; it's not fun having the service brakes fail. They've probably been replaced at least once already, but it's important to know as brakes are arguably the most important system of the vehicle.

I should add, if you're paying for someone else to work on the truck, it will likely cost you a ton of money to keep this thing on the road. I would never advise someone to try to hold onto an old truck like this unless they're doing the work themselves (great time to learn if not yet experienced!) or reasonably wealthy with a trusted mechanic.
 
  #3  
Old 11-12-2018, 08:32 PM
LSCRX
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You could always snag a southern parts truck, like this one

Full disclosure, I bought my truck from a government auction.
 
  #4  
Old 11-12-2018, 09:03 PM
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Hell, that truck looks just fine. Your frame looks pretty good, even your radius arm brackets look mint. You need a spring perch on the passenger side and at least one leaf spring hanger in the back, but that's no big deal. If it were me I'd replace all 4 springer hangers and both shackles. Looks like your core support may be a little rotted, again no big deal (my truck is on core support #3). The cab mount support on the driver's side appeared a little rusty, I only got a glimpse of it though. Looks like your front fenders are rusted at the bottom, again no big deal to replace them.

All in all, I'd say that truck is definitely worth fixing up (assuming you're doing the work yourself) especially if it has sentimental value.
 
  #5  
Old 11-12-2018, 09:45 PM
ryanissamson
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Originally Posted by GoinBoarding View Post
The truck looks serviceable to me. The frame looks OK. I saw some body rot, likely floor boards. To make it like-new might be more effort than it's worth but I think it's got life left in it after you address some issues. Especially if you stop driving it in the salt bath that is the midwest/northeast during winter once it's repaired.

The driver side front spring tower has been replaced; notice it is bolted on and not very rusty. The passenger side tower has completely failed and the coil spring has punch through the top. Don't drive it anymore until you fix this. The spring retainer clip is still in place on it, but the spring "moved", thus it looks off as you first noted in a previous thread. If it were mine, I would be looking at replacing the failed spring tower, likely both coils ($70 for a set of Moog's), take a close look at & consider replacing the radius arms (especially the stud that is hidden under the radius arm bushings), and replace all the rear leaf mounts (strongly consider: front & rear mounts, shackles, leafs, and new U-bolts). The rear-rear leaf mounts have a cupped design that hold moisture/salt and rot readily. They break and the leafs can then punch holes in the bottom of the bed. Once the suspension can safely support the truck, a set of shocks, and an alignment should make it a decent driving truck. Scrutinize the steel brake lines; it's not fun having the service brakes fail. They've probably been replaced at least once already, but it's important to know as brakes are arguably the most important system of the vehicle.

I should add, if you're paying for someone else to work on the truck, it will likely cost you a ton of money to keep this thing on the road. I would never advise someone to try to hold onto an old truck like this unless they're doing the work themselves (great time to learn if not yet experienced!) or reasonably wealthy with a trusted mechanic.
thanks so much. This seems like such great advice. I donít have to drive this truck much at all, weíre a one-car family.
Question, does it make sense to put it on jack stands and take all the wheels off to try to do all of the work at once (I mean over several weeks during the winter while Iím not driving it)? How do most hobbyists work beneath their trucks? Iím assuming jack stands, since lifts have got to be expensive.

Realizing I might be biting off more than I can chew, my intention is to scrape off the rust below to stop the cancer and replace the parts you mentioned. Those things seem far more important than working on interior or fixing dings/touching up exterior paint.
 
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:49 PM
ryanissamson
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Originally Posted by 95fiveoh View Post
Hell, that truck looks just fine. Your frame looks pretty good, even your radius arm brackets look mint. You need a spring perch on the passenger side and at least one leaf spring hanger in the back, but that's no big deal. If it were me I'd replace all 4 springer hangers and both shackles. Looks like your core support may be a little rotted, again no big deal (my truck is on core support #3). The cab mount support on the driver's side appeared a little rusty, I only got a glimpse of it though. Looks like your front fenders are rusted at the bottom, again no big deal to replace them.

All in all, I'd say that truck is definitely worth fixing up (assuming you're doing the work yourself) especially if it has sentimental value.
thanks for the suggestions! From the sound of it, I should probably start a list and work my way from top to bottom in terms of importance to structural integrity/rust spread. I am glad to hear from a few of yíall that this truck is worth keeping!
 
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:52 PM
ryanissamson
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Originally Posted by LSCRX View Post
You could always snag a southern parts truck, like this one

Full disclosure, I bought my truck from a government auction.
Wow, thatís a great idea. So the idea being that a southern truck wouldnít have the rust issues, so I could get it on the cheap and start swapping out parts cheaper than I could by them piece by piece, is that about right?
 
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by LSCRX View Post
You could always snag a southern parts truck, like this one

Full disclosure, I bought my truck from a government auction.
actually, I did a Craigslist search and found the same model year here: https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/...743430298.html

Granted, itís probably in just as bad of shape if not worse, but I suppose I could go take a look regardless.
 
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ryanissamson View Post


actually, I did a Craigslist search and found the same model year here: https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/...743430298.html

Granted, itís probably in just as bad of shape if not worse, but I suppose I could go take a look regardless.
That one looks like an awesome deal... which means it's probably rusted to hell underneath :-P

I live in South Carolina, so my junkyards are full of rust-free trucks. Interiors are all faded to hell and cracked though.
 
  #10  
Old 11-12-2018, 10:22 PM
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I agree with what has already been pointed out. It's much better than I was expecting to see based on your other thread. If you'll have this off the road for a while, and if you have the room, make life easier by just pulling the bed off, it is so much easier to change out the rear hangars that way.
 
  #11  
Old 11-12-2018, 10:29 PM
ryanissamson
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Originally Posted by khxor View Post
I agree with what has already been pointed out. It's much better than I was expecting to see based on your other thread. If you'll have this off the road for a while, and if you have the room, make life easier by just pulling the bed off, it is so much easier to change out the rear hangars that way.
this has been so great, Iím learning a ton. I can absolutely pull the bed off.

Iíve been asking, but if Iím taking the wheels and bed off, etc. are jack stands the way to go? Cinder blocks? Will that damage the frame?
 
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:44 PM
LSCRX
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Originally Posted by ryanissamson View Post


this has been so great, Iím learning a ton. I can absolutely pull the bed off.

Iíve been asking, but if Iím taking the wheels and bed off, etc. are jack stands the way to go? Cinder blocks? Will that damage the frame?
Jack stands! Cinder blocks are very dangerous, I would never get under a vehicle supported by them. You may want to spring for the 4+ ton jack stands, the 2 ton usually don't go very high.
 
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:02 PM
ryanissamson
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Originally Posted by LSCRX View Post
Jack stands! Cinder blocks are very dangerous, I would never get under a vehicle supported by them. You may want to spring for the 4+ ton jack stands, the 2 ton usually don't go very high.
wonderful, thatís what I figured. I have one pair of 4+ ton stands. Iíll pick up another.
 
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:07 PM
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For the rear I left my wheels on and put jackstands under the frame. I only did the rear hangers and shackles, so the leafs were still connected at the front. Screwed together some blocking to get the height I needed, I'm not getting under anything on cinder blocks.



 
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:15 PM
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And this is what you should look at the radius arms for, it should not neck down like this between the threads and large washer.


 

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