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HPOP Non-Serviceable plug replaced, now only 300psi

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HPOP Non-Serviceable plug replaced, now only 300psi

  #1  
Old 11-07-2018, 11:21 AM
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Thumbs down HPOP Non-Serviceable plug replaced, now only 300psi

In an effort to seal the mystery oil leak in my (2003 F-550, 7.3) galley, I ordered new o-ring sets for the turbo pedestal, high pressure oil pump and fuel bowl.

Also opened up and cleaned out the IPR, new O-rings, and new long thread non serviceable plug.

Unfortunately, after reinstalling, I'm only getting 300 PSI of high pressure oil when cranking.


I'm doing this work at a friend's Farm Shop, and he suggested purging the air from the lines by pull starting it with his tractor. After about 10 seconds at 1000rpm, it fired right up and after about 2 minutes was idling pretty nice. I went for a rip up and down the grid road for about half an hour, and then let it idle for about an hour as we had supper. I neglected to observe the high pressure oil ICP while it was running, I assumed we had just purged the air from the lines and everything was back to normal.

Unfortunately, when the engine is stopped, it will not start again... Still only 300 PSI


If we pull start it with the tractor, it fires up within half a second at 1000 RPM...

I'm baffled as to why it runs with gobs of power when it is running, but won't fire on it's own...

It doesn't seem like a bad IPR to me... And it was running fantastic before I went after the oil leak...

As I understand it, a bad IPR will give only low pressure oil levels, approximately 80 psi?

Does any of this ring any bells for anyone?
 
  #2  
Old 11-07-2018, 11:57 AM
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Unplug the icp then try and fire her up
 
  #3  
Old 11-07-2018, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76 View Post
Unplug the icp then try and fire her up
I did, No Dice.
 
  #4  
Old 11-07-2018, 12:34 PM
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What is your battery voltage when cranking? Low batteries may prevent it from starting while cranking but without the starter drawing the voltage down will allow it to start when pulled.
 
  #5  
Old 11-07-2018, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevota_72 View Post
What is your battery voltage when cranking?
Good Tip, But the batteries were both replaced 3 weeks prior and kept on a battery maintainer as I did the work... I didn't measure the voltage while cranking, but you can hear in the videos above that it's spinning over quick. I'm sure they're fine, but I'll add that to the list of things to double check next time I go out there. Thanks

Edit: Also, that second video was shot that same night, It was running for ~1.5 hours, and moments later wouldn't start.
 
  #6  
Old 11-07-2018, 01:14 PM
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I’m just going to throw some stuff out there...did you knock the tin nut off the IPR? Oil in ICP? Oil level good? Starter good?
 
  #7  
Old 11-07-2018, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Colorado350 View Post
...did you knock the tin nut off the IPR? Oil in ICP? Oil level good? Starter good?
  • New Tin Nut, Thread Locked on, I was in there yesterday, hoping that I'd mixed up the EBPV and IPR connections (I hadn't), And I didn't notice it was loose. But I will add it to the list of things to double check next time I drive out there.
  • New ICP, replaced this summer as a precaution because it still had the old style one on there. Also I'm getting valid ICP measurements in the Torque app (video above). I'll measure voltage, and also swap the ICP with the original I kept as a spare and report back.
  • Fresh 15-40 to the top of the hashmarks.
  • Starter has never been a problem, spins fast (see videos above)... OBDII data shows 200RPM which seems like a low number, but sounds fast/normal.

Thanks all for the tips guys, keep them coming, It's an hour drive to go out there with poor internet access, so I want to be armed with all the good ideas before I go.
 
  #8  
Old 11-07-2018, 02:00 PM
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The HPOP shaft's nut torqued down correctly?
 
  #9  
Old 11-07-2018, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by IDI-Charlie View Post
The HPOP shaft's nut torqued down correctly?
Funny you mention, That was yesterday's roadtrip, I did torque the nut bolt to 95ft/lbs originally, but yesterday I took it 1/32 of a turn past that... about 105ft/lb in case my cheap torque wrench was junk. ( I think my wrench is actually fine, because at 95ft/lbs the engine starts to turn over and needs the crank held - this lines up with what others have said.)

But sadly that was not it...

I did pull out the check valves from the fittings when I did the HPOP o-rings, the online consensus seemed to agree they were not needed. Further, yesterday I called DieselOrings (who's kits I used), and they didn't seem to think that it was contributing to the problem either. But what are the chances that the check valves were making the difference between starting pressure and not? Perhaps my HPOP was/is worn and just riding the edge of acceptable starting pressure and pulling the check valves put it over the edge. It seemed fine before, easily getting up to 3000PSI+ on hard acceleration.
 
  #10  
Old 11-07-2018, 02:38 PM
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Did you lose the check ball inside the hpop? Sounds like the problem.
 
  #11  
Old 11-07-2018, 02:43 PM
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I suppose the only way to test low oil pump pressure due to missing check valves is with fittings like Diesel Tech Ron uses at 3:14 in this video? Where would you find such? All I'm getting online is the Air Pressure style for finding leaks.

 
  #12  
Old 11-07-2018, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by duck fan View Post
Did you lose the check ball inside the hpop?
I don't think I dropped the ball , I knew that was a potential problem before I started, and was very careful to get it put back in it's little home with the edge filter going over it. I had the body of the pump in the vice shaft pointing down as I reinstalled the ball, edge filter and plug.

I can send the borescope in the the IPR hole to confirm, But thought before I get everything oily again I'd ask and see if the symptoms (300psi when cranking) indicated something specific.
 

Last edited by Everlanders; 11-07-2018 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Added Pun
  #13  
Old 11-07-2018, 10:09 PM
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I removed the cv's when i had my pump out for resealing..

Anyway of tryn anutha ipr?
 
  #14  
Old 11-07-2018, 11:45 PM
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I need to check my numbers but I think you have to have 500 RPM Minimum for the PCM to make fire.... I need to find my stats.
 
  #15  
Old 11-08-2018, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by coax9952 View Post
I think you have to have 500 RPM Minimum for the PCM to make fire...
Did you mean HPOP PSI or RPM?

500 PSI is absolutely correct, When pulling it with the tractor, that's the magic number where it fires right up... if you meant 500 RPM then the app may not have been measuring correctly or updating fast enough. I say this because the starter sounds fine, it's spinning as fast as it ever has. (please have a listen in post #1)
 

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