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86 Bronco Restoration

  #1  
Old 11-05-2018, 03:49 PM
mpqualdie
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86 Bronco Restoration

I have an 86 Bronco I am restoring. I had someone helping that removed the glass and window units out of the doors and tailgate. He disappeared on me and now I am trying to put the tailgate back together and think I'm missing some things with the key switch assy. I have the harness, and I know there is a clip that holds the lock unit to the new tailgate. but seems to be missing something there I can't figure out. I have a chiltons and haynes, but those drawings are very fuzzy and vague. does anyone have a picture of the tailgate keyswitch assy so I can see what I'm missing?

 
  #2  
Old 11-05-2018, 06:26 PM
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Very, very nice looking Bronco you have.

Have you gone through Steve83's tailgate tech pages?
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12689-2

Lots of good info in there.
 
  #3  
Old 11-05-2018, 07:05 PM
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Very nice '86 project you have there!
I also would suggest reading through all of Steve83's tailgate tech pages.
 
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Old 11-06-2018, 02:22 PM
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Thank you!! just what I needed.. Great help!!
 
  #5  
Old 11-08-2018, 10:10 AM
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not working...still

Found everything and got everything together in the tailgate finally thanks to the tailgate tech page ya'll sent me. I decided to put the switch, t/g harness and glass from the donor Bronco ( also an 86) in this one because it doesn't have the rear defrost wires in the t/g harness or grid on the glass. The grid on the original glass is damaged, so I know it won't work. Besides that it looks like it was added because the button for the rear defroster is mounted to the bottom of the dash, like it was aftermarket. That said, the window won't work. I haven't installed the glass yet so I can push the two key switches inside of the t/g. The down one works, but the up one won't. I put the original t/g harness back in it and it does the same thing. If I reverse the voltage, it goes up fine. The whole inner window assembly is new from JBG. The dash switch won't do anything at all for it with the ignition on or off (I know it has to be on). I had changed the rear harness on this Bronco with the one from donor some time back due to it being severely damaged by, I'm assuming, the trailer light harness that wasn't installed professionally. I can't seem to find any issue with the wiring on it, and both fuses seem to be good. Doe anyone know if it is possible that the rear harness (firewall to the back) may be different due to one having defrost and the other not? I'm an electronics guy, so I understand all of the drawings and such, just thought maybe someone could save me a little time troubleshooting all of this if it's a common issue...
 
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Old 11-08-2018, 08:02 PM
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I've had mine act up and found that the latch interlock switch on the driver's side tailgate latch to be troublesome. I sprayed mine with some WD-40 and cycled the switch a few times and it seems to be working fine now.
I've also made a relay pack that takes all of the load off of the switches. I designed it so that it is a plug in mod except for the power to the relays. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18228212
 
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Old 11-09-2018, 08:05 AM
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Ground

I'm probably going to install a small logic controller and some relays to swap this. I'm afraid I may have opened a can of worms with this... I did quite a bit of testing last night and found that I'm getting the 12v to both of the wires going to the motor, one on up and the other on down. The issue is that the ground goes through the dash switch and holds both of the motor leads low until the dash or key switch turns on. Then it will turn that ground off and supply the 12v to one or the other wires for up or down. I'm missing the ground going through the up circuit. I removed the dash switch took it apart and cleaned it real good put it back together then tested it, so it's like new now. So somewhere between there and the back of the Bronco I'm losing the up switch ground. In the meantime, I've found a mess with the wiring around the fuse box, so who knows...
 
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Old 11-09-2018, 10:48 PM
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With the switches in the neutral position, each of the wires to the motor should be negative. And as you have already found, this negative voltage circuit originates with the dash switch. Good luck with working through the wiring.
 
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:17 PM
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I got it Friday night. One of the coupling plugs under the back bumper was bad, I guess, so I cut the plug off and put wire terminals on and it worked.
 


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