I have 2 brand new Interstate batteries along with all new aftermarket custom cables and a Denso starter. When I had the hood open doing an oil change yesterday, I noticed there was some wetness around the caps and it hasn't rained in almost 2 weeks.

My dad says could be a bad voltage regulator in the alternator and overcharging them. My gauge usually has been reading a little above the middle. Just curious if anybody has any ideas.

 

You could get a cigarette light plug in volt meter and see what the alternator is actually pusing to the batteries. Or, you could get the engine good and warm and test the voltage at the B+ terminal when idling and someone in the cab giving it a bit of fuel.

Also, are you running an OEM amp alternator or a higher amp?

If I were you, I would check the water level on the batteries regardless of what is going on and keep an eye on the level until you get it sorted out.

 

I'm with Sous, check your battery levels and if you think the acid has made its way down the side of the batteries, pull the batteries and neutralize the battery trays with baking soda/water mixture. Vinegar might work too but I'm not 100% on that one. Check the voltage on your batteries at they sit then start the truck and check them with it running. The passenger's side battery is really the only place you need to test, they are linked together and that one is nearest the alternator as the cables run.

 

Do you own a DVOM, Voltmeter? Check unstarted both, and then fire it and let it idle for four minutes and recheck both. If your in the 13,8 to 14.4 range while running at the posts, just start hosing the areas and throw a couple of cans of coke at the areas.

It's all good.

Denny

 

Can an Aeroforce gauge read any of that? I don't actually even own a multimeter. I typically go to my dad's house when I do electrical stuff and use his stuff. I don't daily drive the truck. It's mainly a weekend/picking stuff from wherever truck so I'm not super worried about it. But I figured it isn't normal if it's leaking. Only a total of 2 cells between both batteries looked a little low, but not much.

As far as I know, it's the stock (or a cheap part store special) alternator. I haven't changed it out since I've owned it.

 

I had my alternator over charging my batteries years ago now and when it started my battery warning light came on. Yes the Aeroforce gauge can read battery voltage.

 

B-RAD

Grab a 40 dollar meter. It'll be your right hand for years to come.

I have a 200 dollar Fluke I bought 5 years ago. It has waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay payed for itself. (they went down in price, but you get what you pay for)

And I'll Echo what Mark said, grab a 3-4 dollar port voltmeter on ebay and you have a birds-eye every time you jump in the cab. I have them ported in every vehicle.

Takes five minutes to do anything on this truck and seconds on a house problem with a DVOM.

Denny

 

I bought this AFTER buying 2 new batteries thinking my bad starter was a battery problem

Between the wife and kids I maintain 6 vehicles. This thing would have paid for itself IF i would have had it BEFORE guessing and throwing parts at a problem.

 

Since most folks here are pretty darn smart I hesitate to add this but I'm going to anyway.

Lead acid batteries generate hydrogen which is highly flammable. I knew a guy that actually used a bic lighter to check the level at night (his battery was dead) . Yep, it blew up and shot acid everywhere. He was ok after the bandages came off. If I would have been there I could have stopped him ..... or at least held his "I'm stupid" sign.

 

Without a voltmeter: hold down your trip odometer reset button, turn the key on, keep holding the button a few more seconds and it'll go into a test mode. Then repeatedly press the reset button about 20-25 times and you'll eventually come to a battery voltage display in the odometer. You can start the engine at any time during the process.

A voltmeter would be one of those basic tools that I suggest to anyone that might do some tinkering, but there's absolutely no reason you need to go buy a high dollar unit. I have those, as well as a few free ones from Harbor Freight, they all get the basic jobs done just fine.

 

Save some time and pull alternator and have it tested at an auto electric shop. They can test it properly and give you sound advice. Retail chains are unreliable!

 

Since its a weekender, run over to Tuglys home away from home center, Harbor Freight. Buy a 10.00 solar panel that'll plug into the cig/power port. By doing so, you can then get a free multimeter

 

I have to disagree with Whitey here. I think removing the alternator, taking it to a parts store or electric shop, having it tested, then installing a new one or reinstalling the old one is the most lengthy process.

A simple multi-meter will accomplish the task you are looking for. I have two of these. One stays in the tool box at home, the other stays in the back of the truck under the seat.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Timmy has a good idea too, but the point is that a multimeter is really where your focus should be, especially since you own a 20 year old truck.

 

I need to ask. Have you actually felt the batteries after running for a while? If so, are they warm/hot? If in fact you are over charging by very much you could be cooking the water/electrolyte out of them.

 

A battery guy years ago told me to underfill batteries and check them more often. Just cover the plate 'and then some'. You don't have to fill a battery until it gets to the 'eye' in the cell. This seems to help on vehicles that tend to cause batteries to spew.

Your batteries may be on the 'full' side.