1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

Understanding ECM / PCM

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Old 11-14-2018, 03:31 PM
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Back to the ECM as I remove mine I can see the condensation water from the AC drips directly on to the ECM. What kind of design is that???
Or in my case a bad heater core dumped coolant on the ECM also .
 
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Old 11-17-2018, 07:17 AM
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That can't be good...
 
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Old 11-17-2018, 06:10 PM
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ANCIENT ECM

I wonder if the ECM is bad on the 89 E150 I just bought. Has high idle problems along with charging problem. I put a new alternator on it after the original one failed the bench test. New one failed the on vehicle testing, yet it passed the bench test, indicating a wiring or other on vehicle electrical component failure. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there a way to test these units as a whole or is it something I should just replace, as it is 30+ years old. I hate to start throwing parts at a vehicle I have no knowledge of it's history. At least I got it for a good price.
 
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Old 12-04-2018, 10:09 AM
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Replaced the ECM. No change at all. idle still high. No charge. I still dont know if there is a battery charge light or just the ammeter on the dash. it seems odd that no one has experienced any thing similar, or is able to suggest anything.
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 09:04 PM
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I just replaced my ECM went thru two w az both were "no start" so I got one w world ecm in atlanta and its much better. I still have idle up/down w rich condition, looking to replace MAF as I recall from another it caused the up down idle.
 
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:05 AM
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For those who are still wondering and are still unsure, the PCM or ECM whichever one you want to call it is directly underneath the blower motor in the front passenger's side of the van. it is held by 1 bracket secured to the blower motor housing together with a ground wire. the front end of it which goes toward the fire wall is where the electrical connections are which is held by a 10mm bolt which can be removed from under the hood. you have to remove the battery for better access to the 10mm bolt.
 
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:20 PM
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Many Thanks for all the replies, For those of you following this thread :

After replacing the IAC, ECT, MAF, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel regulator, distributor with new plugs and wires , new exhaust ( cat back ) and testing the TPS, I still have a rough idle when cold ( truck runs much better when at temp )

I will clear and re pull the codes in a couple of days, but for now I am stumped ...
 
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Old 02-25-2019, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by N1265
After replacing the IAC, ECT, MAF, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel regulator, distributor with new plugs and wires , new exhaust ( cat back ) and testing the TPS, I still have a rough idle when cold ( truck runs much better when at temp )
How much money and time do you have invested so far?
 
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:07 PM
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If you have one bank running lean I'd think a leak in the intake manifold. You may have a vacuum line leaking or weak/clogged injectors. Would be odd for one bank to be weak/clogged though. Have you put a vacuum gauge on it to see what it reads? You may need to goto Harbor Freight and get a cheap mechanics stethoscope for that noise at shut-off.
 
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Old 03-02-2019, 06:33 AM
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Here are the codes it is throwing , after clearing the memory by disconnecting the battery :

KOEO : 11, 18, 33

KOER : 44, 33

I do have the ERG valve removed and the port blocked off with a steel plate, there is also a device that I bought off of e-bay that plugs into the connection for the EGR to keep the engine light off ( but I have no clue how it works ) the vacume line is plugged with a small bolt.

I will try to get to harbor freight for a vaccume gage sometime this coming week .
 
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