Holding a 4 foot level to the tire I get about 3/8" to 1/2" sticking out past the highest point in the fender surround, but this does not occur till I am about 2-3 inches down from the tread. All of the tread is within the fender.

 

Can't help with wheel/tyre issues but I ran dynabeads on 22' rims on my old Roush supercharged F150 & was very impressed with the results. I'm going to go with the Centramatic rings on this truck though as I consider it to be my forever truck & it's much easier to use the rings over trying to gather up the ceramic ***** when it's time to change tyres or get a puncture fixed.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16064812

Same for the Super Duty

 

https://santafe.craigslist.org/wto/d/ford-f250-harley-davidson/6718608956.html
could opt for factory option

 

That is a really good deal

 

tires getn a hot dose tomorrow...

 

I know they are not 18s but I run 285/75-16 ATs on Ultra Type 164 16x8" wheels with a -6mm offset. No issues with sling onto the mirrors and no rubbing...

 

I went from a swimming head to an exploding head on this project, Every time I think I have this by the tail, another specification or piece of information sets me back.

Here's the question of the day: The manager at the tire place tells me aftermarket wheels are not hubcentric, so they install plastic hub rings to make it so. My understanding was hubcentric on our diesels was more to put the load on the hub, rather than worrying about centering and balancing alone. Do our 8 lugs take the whole load, or should I focus more on the OEM hubcentric wheels?

 

I went through this and the answer is somewhat evasive depending on who you ask. Common sense though tells me that hub centric would support the load on the hub, lessening the chance of studs breaking or the wheel being off center causing a vibration. Also, lug centric wheels need to use the tapered "acorn" stlye nuts to center the holes on the studs. The nuts that come with our trucks are the flat, 2 piece ones that do nothing for centering, it is all done by the tight fit to the hub. They told me about the plastic hub rings which I was not too excited about, you can however order aluminum ones but they are about $100 for a set of four. Are they as good as a true hub centric wheel? I don't know, but it seems they would do the job, much like that tiny brass ring they give you with a circular saw blade. A lot of people run them so they probably work fine, but I wondered about people with wheel balance problems, if that is the cause and they just don't know it. I've always run an OEM wheel and never had balance or vibration issues. The 2004 Harley/SVT/Lariat wheels are pricey for sure but I am really happy I got them. Last time I looked on ebay there weren't as many for sale as when I bought mine. I know this doesn't really answer your question but my conclusion after much research was to stay with hub centric.

edit: here's a link to the AL hub rings, they explain the difference between plastic and AL: https://www.uswheeladapters.com/hub-rings/

 

Checked ebay just now and there are no sets of 4 available in any style. There is a place that sells new ones for $369 each free shipping for 4. I guess I was lucky to find my set for $1,050 shipped, with center caps. Might have to watch CL and ebay for a while, I'd like to pick up one more for a spare since they seem to be getting more scarce. If I hadn't been lucky enough to get my set I probably would've got aftermarkets but with AL centric rings.

https://www.finishlinewheels.com/FOR...04/A-03551U85/

 

If it's really just a matter of centering for balance, I have found wheels with the 125mm hub bore - which is the OEM size. I also found hubs with 126mm hub bore, which is the worst thing one can get: 1mm is enough to let things get out of center, but not enough to fit a hub ring. A hub ring with a 0.5mm wall in plastic or aluminum won't hold up over time.

 

Thousands run lug-centric and tow heavy with no issues. I'm one of those and can tell no difference from OEM wheels to after market with balance. The After market 18X9's do tow better, steer easier, and look better so I'm not worried about the hub centric. My thought is it's cheaper for OEM to make one "precise" (albeit not a true interference fit on the hub) hole than 8. With proper torque, the wheels stay on the truck fine.

 

That's about what I figured, but I have learned better than to assume anything with Stinky. Since I do tow heavy in the mountains, I pay more attention to detail.

 

Rich,

When I went to 18's I purchased some 2" hub centric spacers from an Amazon vendor. I did have to do some machining on them as the hub centric diameter that fit the wheel wasn't long enough to engage the wheel....in effect making them lug centric. And, if I had not machined the lip deeper (in essence making a 1 3/4" spacer) the wheel run-out would have been terrible....be sure you fit a hub-centric wheel or spacer.

IMO the clamping force of the lugs is what is carrying the weight.