Rear end issues
#1
Rear end issues
Sorry if I'm duplicating, I posted this in the general super duty forum because I know these rears are applicable to a wide range of model years...
I developed a bad hum, speed sensitive, coming from my rear...I'm preparing for the worst...
What's the conventional wisdom with these? Rebuild? Replace? Whats this kind of job usually cost? I've watched some video's so I know quickly it's beyond what I've got the time and experience to do at home.... its a 3.73 rear with LS though I'm pretty sure that the LS has been all slip since I've owned it.
I developed a bad hum, speed sensitive, coming from my rear...I'm preparing for the worst...
What's the conventional wisdom with these? Rebuild? Replace? Whats this kind of job usually cost? I've watched some video's so I know quickly it's beyond what I've got the time and experience to do at home.... its a 3.73 rear with LS though I'm pretty sure that the LS has been all slip since I've owned it.
#2
Well, finding a replacement axle and doing a swap is probably the easiest/cheapest, especially since you have a 2wd. Any gear ratio will work if you tow you may want deeper gearing, I regeared and went went with a Truetrac in 4.10’s. Pull the cover, and look for shavings etc then report back. I would pick up a Lubelocker gasket so you don’t Have to deal with the RTV mess. They are reusable and work exceptionally well .
#3
Well, finding a replacement axle and doing a swap is probably the easiest/cheapest, especially since you have a 2wd. Any gear ratio will work if you tow you may want deeper gearing, I regeared and went went with a Truetrac in 4.10’s. Pull the cover, and look for shavings etc then report back. I would pick up a Lubelocker gasket so you don’t Have to deal with the RTV mess. They are reusable and work exceptionally well .
It’s got a lube locker in it already and just changed the fluid maybe 1k miles ago ... weren’t any abnormal shavings then ...
dont think im interested in going to 4.10’s, I don’t plan to go to excessively taller tires and only tow recreationally which it pulls my 10k TT very well...so I’d rather keep the 3.73’s for fuel economy driving unloaded.
Hows your feeling about the truetrac? What did doing the rebuild with one in it set you back?
#5
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#9
Thats why if you remove the pinion yolk you never ever, ever, ever, want to torque the nut back to spec, ive changed plenty of pinion yolk seals and what works best is to use a 1/2" impact gun, set your air compresor to 150PSI and go at it untill you see your socket move no more, I know theres different brands of impact guns and may vary in torque, but should get you close to where the nut was originally removed.
#10
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
NomadicSystems
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
4
10-10-2006 08:29 PM
82F100PU
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
08-11-2003 02:39 AM