Engine losses all power, stays idling though.
#1
Engine losses all power, stays idling though.
My 2003 F-350 6.0 w/ 165,000 miles (chassis cab, small dump truck) has recently developed a weird problem that hopefully someone out there can help me with. Recently the engine has experienced an issue where it losses all power while driving, like the ignition was turned off. However, the engine does not die, it stays idling. If you take your foot off the accelerator and reapply the throttle the truck will slowly come back to life and drive normal. This problem happens at random times with no indication that it is going to happen. Sometimes it is a few days in-between when it happens, sometimes it is within a few hours. I do not have a CEL on and the codes I pulled out of the PCM are P0046, P0401 and P132B. It seems to me that all these codes point to a problem with the VGT. Would a problem with the VGT make the truck loose all power, but then start working fine again? Seems like an electrical problem to me, but I couldn't find any chaffed wires. Any ideas where to start? Thanks in advance.
#4
#5
thanks very much. I might also add that it's done it twice now. Once pulling a light boat...running but no throttle. Shut it off waited because it wouldn't start. waited, tried several times, eventually started and ran home like nothing was wrong. Another time pulling the same light boat, pulled into a fuel station and shut off. Same no start for awhile then started and drove fine. Haven't tried to run it since. Just now checking to see what troubleshooting I should be doing. I change the fuel filters after every other oil change, been about 7500 miles. Been nice and cold here, I thought maybe I'd change the filters see if any gelling. It has warmed up to 65 from 0 degrees ten days ago. Missouri weather. If there's gelling then with warmer temps does the gel dissolve or stay around?
#6
Okay well no start would be something else. Running out of power hot, no start hot until it you wait a little while (which really means it cools off a little), that sounds like high pressure oil system problems.
I would test or have the high pressure oil system tested for leaks.
As far as the fuel gelling, it's basically wax that condenses and falls out of solution. Yes it can mix back in completely but realistically this isn't going to happen unless you get that fuel up to 80 degrees or more, 100 would be better.
New filters is peace of mind in my opinion.
I would test or have the high pressure oil system tested for leaks.
As far as the fuel gelling, it's basically wax that condenses and falls out of solution. Yes it can mix back in completely but realistically this isn't going to happen unless you get that fuel up to 80 degrees or more, 100 would be better.
New filters is peace of mind in my opinion.
#7
I'll switch fuel filters, have em on hand. I have forscan lite on the iphone. Where do I check for fuel pressure, the one around 50+psi? I mean on forscan, I can't find that one. icp is around 580 to 1100 ish when moving throttle. Throttle position sensor reading shows no fault but tpi volts shows -.06. I don't know what that means. Moved the throttle position and no change. Lots to learn with this engine but I like it...so far. Don't enjoy how the front hubs don't always lock in on auto, they seem 100% when turning the hubs manually. Prev ford tech who now works and the indy shop said they have plastic parts in there and work sometimes. He also said vacuum is fine. Man that's not a very good answer but I don't doubt it's true. thoughts? reliable 4wd is kinda important...thanks for the patience and replies with the new guy.
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#8
Fuel pressure isn't monitored by the ECU so you won't find it in forscan. You'll need a separate setup to read that.
To get a sense of high pressure oil system health you need to look at IPR duty cycle plus ICP voltage. You can't just look at the ICP pressure because it isn't always true. I chased my tail for weeks before I learned that. For your purposes though IPR duty cycle is possibly enough. If IPR goes to 85% while cranking, you probably have an oil leak. Normal cranking should fire up at around 35% I believe. Hot idle should be low 20's like 22 or so. If these numbers come out higher anywhere that means your high pressure oil systems is needing to work harder to make up for the leak.
The auto hubs are vacuum operated and work like a ball point pen clicker, except it uses full force to lock it and half force to unlock it, the motion is the same though sucking in on a diaphragm against a spring. The parts the carry the load are metal but the clicking mechanism is plastic yes. The system is kind of finicky. First of all nothing about the auto system works well if the vacuum system to it doesn't work well. There are several lines involved, several seals and o-rings, and the vacuum solenoid itself. If any of that is suspect and you want the auto system to work, it's gotta be taken care of. From there make sure your hubs are cleaned up and in good shape. Here's a good procedure to take care of them. Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
If all of that sounds like a hassle, and it kind of is, you can always go to manual hubs. If you do that just cap off the vacuum system.
To get a sense of high pressure oil system health you need to look at IPR duty cycle plus ICP voltage. You can't just look at the ICP pressure because it isn't always true. I chased my tail for weeks before I learned that. For your purposes though IPR duty cycle is possibly enough. If IPR goes to 85% while cranking, you probably have an oil leak. Normal cranking should fire up at around 35% I believe. Hot idle should be low 20's like 22 or so. If these numbers come out higher anywhere that means your high pressure oil systems is needing to work harder to make up for the leak.
The auto hubs are vacuum operated and work like a ball point pen clicker, except it uses full force to lock it and half force to unlock it, the motion is the same though sucking in on a diaphragm against a spring. The parts the carry the load are metal but the clicking mechanism is plastic yes. The system is kind of finicky. First of all nothing about the auto system works well if the vacuum system to it doesn't work well. There are several lines involved, several seals and o-rings, and the vacuum solenoid itself. If any of that is suspect and you want the auto system to work, it's gotta be taken care of. From there make sure your hubs are cleaned up and in good shape. Here's a good procedure to take care of them. Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
If all of that sounds like a hassle, and it kind of is, you can always go to manual hubs. If you do that just cap off the vacuum system.
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