86' 6.9L RoadRunner Restoration : RoadWorthy??
#181
Howdy ombt!-)
your 5th wheel has brakes and the truck has a brake controller?
do you want brakes?
reverse lights?
looks like your parts list there is a rewire and its a good time to do the trailer too.
update to the newer 7 pole and even without brakes or reverse lamps you will be set for the future hookups.
there is also a 7 and 4 pole combo connector available.
sometimes you can pick this a the junk yards in great shape....brake controller too.
your 5th wheel has brakes and the truck has a brake controller?
do you want brakes?
reverse lights?
looks like your parts list there is a rewire and its a good time to do the trailer too.
update to the newer 7 pole and even without brakes or reverse lamps you will be set for the future hookups.
there is also a 7 and 4 pole combo connector available.
sometimes you can pick this a the junk yards in great shape....brake controller too.
#182
Gittin a bed swap done, ol gurl running dadgum gewd. Vacuum pumped the master cylinder to slave line and made a werld of difference. Vacuum tested coolant system to 20 lbs and found and fixed two problems. Only thing left is when road gets real bumpy truck dies key/ignition won't stay on when supposed to. Cuz said check starter contacts, neighbor said check ignition rod to switch connection, I'm thinking pull steering wheel and check steering rod to actuator roll pin down the rabbit hole we continue, I'm late, I'm late, for an important date haha
#183
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they are both wrong. lower the column a bit so you can see under the dash, and check the ignition switch. my bet is it is bad and separated.
the ignition switch is made top half plastic, bottom half metal. what happens is over time the metal and plastic parts start to separate and this will cause the engine to turn off.
the ignition switch is made top half plastic, bottom half metal. what happens is over time the metal and plastic parts start to separate and this will cause the engine to turn off.
#184
they are both wrong. lower the column a bit so you can see under the dash, and check the ignition switch. my bet is it is bad and separated.
the ignition switch is made top half plastic, bottom half metal. what happens is over time the metal and plastic parts start to separate and this will cause the engine to turn off.
the ignition switch is made top half plastic, bottom half metal. what happens is over time the metal and plastic parts start to separate and this will cause the engine to turn off.
I've taken them to the tailgate and pushed em back together and beat the ears back down tight with a hammer, that's if the contacts and all that look good. If they're burnt and it has play in it then it should be replaced.
#186
Two outer ones on that aluminum bracket, lay it right down on the seat and you can mess with the linkage and what not.
Bolts are 7/16, a shallow socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet works pretty well for me. It's tight but plenty doable.
Bolts are 7/16, a shallow socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet works pretty well for me. It's tight but plenty doable.
#187
cousin clipped a hot wire batteries connected, went through and replaced all fusible links with butt connectors. This video is what’s been happening since. I’m thinking perhaps a glow plug solenoid pole internally isn’t making connection as sometimes with key on no electric power is being sent to glow plug controller, interior clock etc unless I jiggle the mass of wires in picture with key on just a second or so until gp solenoid clicks on then she will fire and video provided is result every time. Going to swap out gp solenoid with another after posting this. Thanks for all the advice and help fellers. If that doesn’t werk I’m not sure where to go haha
Last edited by Onemoreblessedtexan; 08-31-2020 at 08:29 AM. Reason: Added guidance request
#189
#191
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#194
haha one piece at a time is about right Big Dawg! Ain’t ever seen any “hot pipes”. Cut my exhaust off at the cab and bed seam since the glass packs and brackets wouldn’t quit rattlin. There’s already enough on here that rattles LoLz
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