Hi Tex..

Figured I'd toss 2 cents in if you are still working things out..

Been there done that on much of this.

1. new negative battery cable.

Can get this at a deka battery location if you have one locally or order online.

2. Though the truck idles high for a couple mins then drops rpms +
3. hotter than used to be after 25 mins of idling.

You probably know that high idle at startup is normal, cold the ip triggers high idle solenoid and advance. Do replace the thermostat with genuine Motorcraft thermostat from the dealership, after sitting 18y there is rust built up and you need to flush the cooling system.

First replace the heater core.. Hoses off, glove box and liner out and pull out, then reverse..

While there remove the varmint nests by opening the flap door under it and pulling out the leaves, also do this from the underhood side by removing the blower motor and pulling out the nest.

Drain coolant and flush with a gallon of vinegar and tap water, Let it circulate, sit a day if you want.

Flush out with hose water, then drain. Then fill with distilled water, circulate and drain, then fill with half, full strength autocraft green coolant available at Advance auto (this brand is low silicate glycol) other half distilled Water. Replace t-stat last.

4. Replaced tach sensor but rpms still not working on dash.

I have isspro tach gauge and it needed harmonic balancer magnets and sensor. Not sure if the stock gauge works the same.

5. Oil and Temp gauges .

Maybe try and find a jy cluster if you are not good with wiring.. Pinpointing these issues will require electrical knowledge or swapping and maybe some combination of both.


6. Dash lights very dim.

Probably the headlight - dimmer switch. Replace with jy model if concern with this one. Also Do install a high beam remote 30a Bosch relay for your lights, or you will burn out - the switch / fuse block / or wires. Mine melted. The wiring is insufficient ampacity to handle the load. Simply run a relay block under hood and larger wires to the lamps.

7. I believe I have the BorgWarner 4 spd transmission.

The T19 is a fantastic transmission, though no highway gearing, you're on the right track though, tall tires make up the difference and give high speed operation at tire size 35 and better recommended. 35 is max for stock ride height.
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9. I'd like to keep original radio.. But

I was there too.. I'd like a good stock radio and hidden source, but I couldn't find any decent stock unit.. I pulled 3 out of the jy each with varying problems before giving up.

Kenwood makes a nice deck and I ultimately put one in.. Good thing is, if you can fabricate mounting brackets well and wire it, you can mount it perfectly in the stock location without cutting the bezel, so you can go back to a stock radio or swap without an ugly cut up hole.. Takes patience and precision but a fun 1 day job no problem.

11. Trailer wires are weird..

Gonna have to get a electric meter, and learn to use it.. It's easy and a lifetime skill, 12v is a great place to start because you won't be electrocuted.

12. I'm looking to put a B0$$ lift..

I'm gonna lift mine at some point to accommodate larger tires but will fab it myself, I myself wouldn't trust an aftermarket kit to track right as we have a very unique ttb system that is very perticular .. But I haven't looked too hard so idk maybe someone makes a good system but it'll cost ya, and then plan on taking it to a heavy truck mechanic to set the camber and alignment.

Beautiful bullnose btw.. The dually bulls are somewhat rare and I like it alot, congrats on scoring a dusty diamond.

 

5.

Gauges are a personal preference, but I like iss pro "classic" dial gauges myself.
(money no issue? Good because each will cost about a hundred bucks, but they're nice) as mentioned do this last ish.

Oh maintenance for T19.. Drain and fill to upper fill hole level with 75-90 synthetic valveline gear oil available at autozone. Also drain and fill the pumpkins with the same oil.

That's all it really needs to drive a million miles, except a clutch and throw out / pilot bearing every 5 - 10y if driven daily.

(maybe future project) remove shift slave and pack tob and quill, but this is kind of an intermediate level job and not absolutely necessary, but will greatly extend the life of your tob.

Parking brakes, buy replacement back half cables in sheaths off rockauto.com.. I got both sides for 20 bucks.. BUT

You probably have the HD dana 70, and this is a floating axle meaning it is lubricated through the tube and pumpkin. So you cant simply pull off the drum for repair.. Gotta do a whole job of it.. Need a large special nut for axle shaft nuts.. New wheel seals, brake cylinders while you are in there.. Brake shoes and hardware kit ..

You have to really get in there and so it's best to do it all at once and have it rebuilt.

Remove wheel, remove caps, pull nut pin, remove nut, slide out axle shaft, replace pb cable assembly and rebuild brakes, wheel seal. Pop out old wheel seal and replace..

Everything top quality, use only best parts you can get always. Centric wheel cylinders skf or timken only for bearings and seals.. Ect..

Good luck, much of these things I mentioned I have posted how to's about if you want to scrounge around and find great detail - pics.

 

Heck Yeah Buddy Thank You. I've honestly been slacking recently but getting to the truck very soon.

 

Yea no problemo, I don't know about there, but here - it got real cold real fast.. Cold diesel truck can wait unless you just absolutely have to drive it.. Good luck and hollar back.

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My version of very soon (5 months later)

Still in progress, gonna strip er down to the block

This mernin

 

This gear spun when i took er off so as for marking it 🤔

 

ReEdit: There's the plug right before my eyes haha I felt the back of the block so many times looking for it that I started to feel creepy the 9th time x'D

Seems something under this plate where the scraper is standing towards the rear side of engine is holding the plate on stronger than silicone

not sure how to pop er off, is this classified the valley van? Online search coming up empty

EDIT: found online to remove an oddball, 3/8 drive needed to remove, plug from backside of engine that holds vally pan in below CDR valve seat but for the life of me can't find the dadgum plug so i figure just take the heads off then that'll help me look under the valley pan to figure out what's going on..ha!

 

This un too

Will someone tell me what this is for? Wasn't plugged into anything and everything I've removed had it's own plug.

I'm lookin to simplify, resecure and re loom all these wires. What's a good lubricant to spray on the wires to help prevent cracking and corrosion before bundling em? WD-40, tranny fluid, MMO, silicone based, Talon general purpose lubricant? Does anyone have a link to a video or thread with ideas for a B0$$ wire re routal? Difficult to find online for me. A fella on FTE has a nice passenger fender plate wire erganization video but can't find much for firewall above engine and drivers side fender. Gonna use common sense but ideas are generally helpful in the creation of a masterpiece

 

don't worry about the gear on the injector pump, when you remove the timing cover you can align the gear to be where they are supposed to be.

 

Good Deal! Thanks for the reply!! So essentially not removing the oil filler tube housing is for someone looking to remove injector pump only with as minimal removing of anything else but since I'm cracked and whacked down to the block with a plan to seal the deal on every metal mating surface on the engine then removing it is fine, hell yeah!

This son beach right here's heavier than a hogs' hindquarters x'D

 

yup. but you will want to remove the pump from that housing before putting it back together.
it will make your life a whole lot easier.

 

Hey ombt...

its only 100#s to lift up to your chest......
while on tip toes bending over!!-).

Have a factory trailer light hook up from an 83 here.
keepn a lookout for the fender/side lights.

looks good.
enjoy

 

anything You wanna trade for that trailer light hook up? I'll pay shipping both ways as long as Yer in the 48, PM me if Yer interested Mr. Edward. Also THANK YOU for the lookout for OE fender lights!!! I'd prefer to install those instead of new doo dads. I'll buy
Is there anything fancy I should know about removing this box? Not gonna run a/c and this dadgum thang is all in my way. Am gonna run heater though so curious if removing the box on the right will throw off heater. Also while We're here I want to pop the ol dipstick tube out instead of lifting this 80lb +/- head all the way above it or is it

Wasn't looking to remove these lines as I'm a minimalist but I'm going to check EVERY possible point of air intrusion (will be NO hiccups when I finally turn the ignition key for the first ride after rebuild) soshould I use some of the white pookie that seals threads on metal and leave the lines attached but loose after i remove, clean and pipe thread pookie then tighten em when i reinstall IP to it's motor resting place to know lines are positioned correctly?

 

Gonna grinder, sawzall, etc..this other half shell off real perty then custom build me a tube to connect from firewall to, I'd presume the round box to the left of half shell is a fan needed for heater? Or is the roundd box a/c related too and has no bearing on heater system functionality?

This is the pic for previous comments "Is there anything fancy..." questions. Somehow it got taken off and I was deathly scared to try to re add it to completed post and lose my paragraphs (has happened a couple times in last few days)

 

Not seeing the “box”. The heater and a/c inlet box on passenger side? Comes out as a box. Think there are some bolts from the inside in addition to the perimeter of the engine bay.... it pops with an easy pry bar ..so
when it doesn’t come off ya know there’s something inside holding it on....

the ip goes on loose at the end of everything and tighten up the lines there. No goop or anything but good ol
factory design. For 150-450? It can have a going over at some place out your way. Highly recommended from
diesel dude out thisaway. He does a lot of stuff with them and it may be worth having it done.

best Regards