An early '88 would most likely refer to vehicles produced in late '87. (Usually start in August of preceding year). An April build date may be considered a "mid production" date.

I have no personal experience with the 87/88 Fords, but weren't auto hubs offered in those years also?
If so, wouldn't an auto hub be a somewhat direct swap over to standard "Warn" type hubs just like in the 92-96 150/Broncos ?

 

Battery has been trickle charging all day - it cranks fast now. The spark is verified strong and blue from cyl 1 and 5. Haven't yet tested fuel pressure - still doesn't make sense that it wouldn't fire while spraying ether at it...

 

It doesn't.
It does take a large volume of fuel to start a cold engine.
Take a look at a plug after you try starting, sometime they tell a tale.
Check the spark the plug puts out, while you have it out.
Keep checking items off the list.

So nothing else has been done to the engine since it ran last?

 

F150-302

 

Ok so the plastic on that linkage is broken. But, it doesn't affect WOT operation so I'll let it be.

INTERESTING update..... Pushed the Bronco into the garage to work. Got the torp heater going to make it nice and warm. Pulled the #1 plug and verified the plug was sparking. Dad saw the spark - not me. Putting it back in he snapped the porcelain. Went to the ZONE and picked up a Motorcraft tune up kit (plug and wires) and a new cap and rotor. I also rented a fuel pressure tester. Got home and Dad and Andy got to work changing the plugs and wires. I hooked up the pressure tester, jumped the EEC plug and saw NOTHING!!! Zero fuel pressure. I was so heartbroken. Fuel was coming out of the Schrader valve but as we all know that doesn't mean anything. Plugs looked clean, but smelled like fuel and looked wet. Odd for a vehicle with no fuel pressure.......

So we finished the tune up and Pops said "lets try to start it why not?" Would you believe it fired up just as fast as the first time???? I was so shocked! So we had spark to the wires and to the plugs and it appeared that it had zero fuel pressure, yet it runs smoother than before. Needless to say I'm a little confused - of course the pressure tester could have been bad but that wouldn't necessarily explain why it wouldn't start with ignition parts that worked......

Shut it down for about 5 minutes and it fired back up just as well as before. Will update tomorrow after it's had a night to sit out in the cold......


All the plugs looked basically like this

 

I guess we'll never know what it originally came with. I also don't have any experience with the earlier Fords. Very interesting to know about the early vs. mid production dates!

 

I’d say something was wrong with your pressure gauge connection to your schrader valve, not uncommon that the gauge screw-on yoke doesn’t align with the bicycle valve center pin.
You will still want to check this pressure sometime to be sure your pressure is not toggling between low and high 30s pressures.

As far as the starting, tough to know over the internet. I personally like to see fresh plugs, wires, cap & rotor go in before troubleshooting, it just checks them off the list, 99% of the time. Its possible the old Dizzy Cap was miss-aligned. There is always the possibility you have something going on in the wiring harness or EECM. Keep moving forward considering previous recommendations as time permits. I have a 30 year old head scratcher story related to Spark Plugs.

What was the P/N of the plugs you pulled out? And what P/N did you put in?

Check your new SP wires to be sure they are not crossing over each other, you can get clip on SP wire separators to organize the wires with.
You should recheck for codes when you get the chance.

 

To answer your previous question Vinny, no we hadn't even touched the engine when it wouldn't start. The weather did drop down from 40s to 50s to 20s and raining. Parked it outside after the trans work and she wouldn't start the next day. I would agree on the fuel pressure tester - there's no way it could be 0 psi considering it runs. I will continue to check for potential problems.

In terms of tune up, we pulled out Motorcraft plugs (not sure on P/N) and replaced them with Motorcraft SP-415 (copper core). Plug wires were Motorcraft tailored set and rotor/cap were parts house brand. The Bronco runs better now, and probably will run even better after we burn off the stale gas and run seafoam thru the fuel system.

Another question: what would make the red "BRAKE" light come on? Pedal feels somewhat soft but brakes are there... Parking brake pedal isn't sticking and keeping the switch on either.

I'm back in Harrisonburg now so this project will have to be put on hold while I study hard for final exams. In three weeks I'll be home for Christmas break and we can dive back in. In one week I got the Bronco running, changed the trans fluid, and gave it a tune up. It's now running and driving, though its still got a lot of work that needs done before it's good to go.

Thanks to everyone who's helped so far - stay tuned for more!

 

Your regular brake pedal light switch is not related to this light.

Define when this light comes on/off; Key off? Key on? While cranking? After the engine starts?
I believe this light comes on when you turn the key to Start to test the bulb.

Your parking brake switch is connected to this light. If you are sure that switch is electrically open (you can prove this by disconnecting the parking brake switch) then your Dual Brake Warning Sensor on your Master Cylinder may be at fault or telling you something. This sensor will turn on the light if the pressure for the front or rear brake fluid is too low. Look for Pink/White & Black wires.

You also have an Anti-Lock Brake indicator light as well.

 

Yeah I'm sorry for not specifying. The issue is the red Brake light, not the ABS light. It stays on when the truck is running, which is an issue because the Bronco will fail state inspection with it on. I have not checked the parking brake switch - that would be something to dig into. The master cylinder is plenty full and the float is free. I don't know what else might cause the light to stay on - maybe Dad can disconnect the PB switch and see if the light goes off.

 

If the parking brake switch checks out, check out the sensor (unplug it)....

 

As we enter into Virginia’s winter temperatures, and your mention of Seafoam, you are right about the stale gas.

Due to this separation, H2O can form in the tank, fuel lines, filter, regulator, fuel rail and injectors and these water droplets can freeze when the temps drop (Causing a head scratching event after the droplets thaw).

Also due to Ethanol Phase Separation (EPS), is a corrosive compound is created and left behind within the fuel system.

The theory that Ethanol fuels absorb water in your tank is flawed because the fuel is saturated with water as it flows out of the underground tanks. Great for Fuel Station owners, for they have to pay for the regular removal of water from their tanks.

I did some limited research a few years ago on the effects of Ethanol fuels on automotive systems, attached is one of many documents that support my theory for mitigating some of the effects. As you will read, Seafoam did not fare well, where as gasoline antifreeze did.

The problem with potential snake oils is they don’t do one thing well, and are really only suitable for routine maintenance if used a certain way, other than what the label recommends (due to liability & O2 sensor contamination), which when diluted within a full tank of fuel becomes irrelevant.

The reason I recommend adding octane to your tank is to counter another negative effect of Ethanol Phase Separation on Octane level. EPS will lower the octane level in the fuel after approximately 90 days, which is the approx shelf life of Ethanol fuels, and also when Phase Separation starts to occur.

The gas line antifreeze will absorb the additional H2O in the fuel system prevent freezing and allow it to flow through the engine. The Octane will increase the average octane level in your tank of old fuel and help your occasional starting events. The both will improve the quality of your fuel while you are troubleshooting your truck. I suggest you continue to burn up the fuel currently in your tank with these additives and only keep a minimum amount of fresh fuel in the tank until the truck is driven regularly.

Good luck with your exams….

See attached;

 

I'm taking a study break and thought to pick everyone's brains again. There's a couple small things that need fixing up. First of all the gear lever position thing in the dash won't move - its stuck on P. How do I get in there and reattach it?

Also the back glass switch doesn't work. Thoughts for how to test it? The glass will go up and down with the key switch on the tailgate.

Finals are going great

 

Check fuse #14 (25A), but this also powers driver/passenger windows.
(Fuse #12 is for the window key switch, but it operates your door locks as well)

I’m guessing the contacts in the switch are corroded or you have a lose wire.
First rock the switches 2 dozen times, if nothing happens them pop the switch out and check the connections.

If the connections look ok, then; Measure the LB/Bk wire for 12v, if that’s ok then;
Measure the PK/LB wire while operating the Down Switch for 12v.
Measure the P/LG wire while operating the Up Switch for 12v.
Then you may need to check some grounds.

 

Thanks for the procedure Vinny, will be sure to check it out and report back in. Know anything about the gear selector indicator? I'd like to know - Mom decided to take the Bronco around the block and called me mid drive to complain that it didn't really want to go over 35 and was turning 2500 RPMs.... I told her to bump the shifter up once and... Lo and behold, it shifted to third!

I did have another question but I forgot!