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Tps adjustment.... scres are weird....tried lots of tools

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Tps adjustment.... scres are weird....tried lots of tools

 
  #1  
Old 10-21-2018, 04:31 PM
LittleLucy
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Tps adjustment.... scres are weird....tried lots of tools

Hi all
I'm trying to clean and adjust my tps
The trouble is the bolts/screws?
I've tried many torx/stars/allen .....nothing grabs well enough to turn them.....see pic
any ideas ?
thank you for your time


The bolts are.........? What size and tool? Thx
 
  #2  
Old 10-22-2018, 08:08 AM
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They appear to be a tamper proof specialty fastener from ford. I do not see anything like it in my kits. They look like standard Allen/hex heads but two flats are longer like a rectangle. Try modding an Allen wrench the next size up that doesn't fit properly by grinding down the flats. You could purchase the tool from ford, if possible, or dremel a slot in the head and use a flat screwdriver.


Using larger allen key, grind two flats to fit the fastener.

Edit: 10/25/18- This is not a torx pattern



 

Last edited by Dieselamour; 10-22-2018 at 08:18 AM. Reason: Added photo
  #3  
Old 10-25-2018, 02:31 AM
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They look like torx screws to me, try getting a pick set or a sewing needle and cleaning out all the grooves, I have to do this a lot on older stuff

Maybe a pair of needle nose vise grips to grab the outside and take it to a hardware store and get some in flat head (Phillips tend to strip out alot)

A little motor oil on the screws will help keep them from seizing up, they should be brass screws when they're in aluminum but they like to just zinc coat steel bolts and make it your problem later on down the road..

[Edit] the outer screws are the ones you want to adjust (see how the metal tabs are slotted so it can be rotated)
 
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:32 AM
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Yes those require a Torx bit. T-10, or T-15 somewhere in that range.

You need to clean those out, (I think I used a wire brush) THEN tap the bit into the screw until it bottoms out in the screw head, then turn it. If they are stuck, ( at least one that I took off was very suck) use a small sharp chisel, or a good newish screwdriver with a tip that is not worn. Point it straight down, (vertical) at the top outside edge of the screw head at the center, THEN move it very slightly to the left, of center, still on the outside edge of the screw head and then tap straight down on the other end of the chisel with a tool (that serves a a small hammer). The chisel or screwdriver will make a slight gouge or cut in the screw head on it's outer edge when you tap it and will hold there enough to turn the screw head slightly to the left as you tap the chisel or screwdriver handle, breaking it loose. The sharp edge of the chisel or screwdriver will catch in that gouge mark as you tap it and break the screw lose by turning it slightly to the left.

When I did that on these screws I had to do it several times on one screw to get the screw loose enough to turn out.

Imagine on a much larger scale, the locking ring on a fuel tank sending unit and using a large screw driver and hammer to tap that ring on one of those ears to tun it to the left to loosen it. On the small screw you are in effect making one of those ears when the edge of the tool cuts into the side of the screw head and the tool will hold well enough to turn the screw a little bit to the left when you tap.

The correct bit should work then but if not, tap it again LIGHTLY with the chisel or screwdriver, same spot or in another location until it's loose enough to turn out.
Screw heads are soft, the chisel or screwdriver will dig into to outside edge and hold there very well while you tap on the other end. I've done that successfully many many times. If a screw is stuck really bad, and that doesn't work, I would chisel the head off flush. After the part is removed he threaded part of the screw usually comes out very easily. It's usually the bottom of the screw head that sticks. Small needle nose vice grips (locking pliers) are good for grabbing onto the exposed part of the screw and turning it out. .

Was that a clear enough description or do you need a photo?
 
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Old 02-09-2019, 09:04 PM
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Thank you btw

I did end up getting the tps r&rD
What a PITA!!
I spent 4 days dremmeling, cussing and stomping my feet (all of which, I'm sure ,helped
I purchased new hex heads as replacements because ......forget that stuff ,ever again!!
took a couple of tries but got it dialed in and it has solved many shifting issues!!
I still have the sluggish reverse which I will address in the warmer months.
Thanks again!!
 
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Old 02-16-2019, 11:14 AM
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When I run into stuff like this I find a torx bit that's a little bigger and hammer it in, usually a quick solution.
 
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:48 AM
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When this happens in front hubs with the allen head screws,I just drill them out and replace the bolts.I probably would of tried the same with these.Might be too tight in there for that without removing the IP though uh? Probably would of been quicker to just remove the IP to fix it though by the sounds of it.I dunno if those 4 days were 8 hr days but a couple hours to remove the IP,10 mins to replace the bolts and another couple hours to put the ip back in for a half day project.Sometimes things like this can get the best of ya if you don't just remove the part all together.
 
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:54 AM
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Thank you :)

Yeah......I have a bad neck....so.. couple hours at a time......
I slotted with a dremel (the back bolt was a struggle,with little room to work)
It worked.....but it was painful
I replaced with hex heads ,)!! Dagnabbit
 

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