Sticking Throttle Body
#1
Sticking Throttle Body
I haven't been driving my 93 E150 much since I registered it as historic vehicle, maybe once a week to keep it exercised. Consequently, it seems the throttle body is sticking to the point that I can't drive it because it won't return to idle speed. Does anyone know if it's possible to free up the throttle body without removing it? It looks like a PIA to access for removal to give it a through cleaning. And I'm reading that the TB shouldn't be cleaned due to a "special" coating. TIA
#2
There are probably a million TB's cleaned that still run and operate just fine----the key is using cleaner intended for throttle bodies and nothing else. An old soft tooth brush and lots of patience during this process is important too. You'd get a better job by removing it but it can be done with some success if left in place, squiring the cleaner into the opening, holding the butterfly door open which taking care of any build-up on the edges.
Not sure how easy removing it would be on your year but here's a video of one on an F-Series where it is removed:
With my '97's and later once the doghouse is removed access should be fairly easy. You'll naturally have to remove the air filter housing and ducting to the TB has to come off and from there its not much more to just remove the entire part.
HTH
Not sure how easy removing it would be on your year but here's a video of one on an F-Series where it is removed:
HTH
#4
Your advantage here is since this isn't a daily driver or so important you can't ground it for a day or two you've got time to do this job "perfectly"-----who knows it might become a favorite once again?
Let us know how the goes and the outcome Jimbo----could be helpful to others at some point.
#5
You can pull the TB from the front, you don't need to remove the cowling in the van. I just replaced the TPS on my 96 with a 351. And you can clean the TB with spray carb cleaner. I did mine and nothing bad happened. The only coating I found was gunk from the EGR built up. Replace the TPS while you have the TB off the vehicle to avoid having to do this whole operation twice.
#6
Throttle body has been extracted. Not too difficult of a job, and it all happened front the front, not necessary to remove the doghouse inside. As suspected the shaft is sticking and not letting the pedal return to idle. There's also a pretty good buildup of crud inside the TB too. Next task is getting it cleaned up and the shaft working freely.
#7
Throttle body is now unstuck and the butterfly is now working freely. I accomplished this with generous amounts of Liquid Wrench and working it in. I'm hoping that the solvents in the Liquid Wrench were kind to the "Special Coating" inside the bore. Next step is to clean up the carbon buildup on inside.
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#8
Just wanted to update the outcome. Since I had the TB removed I cleaned the the bores and plates with lacquer thinner and a small brush. I think that it makes less mess and uses less solvent. It was pretty crusty and the thinner softened it right up. In retrospect I could have freed it up by leaving it on the van by just spraying it with penetrating solvent and working the throttle. I also replaced the TPS while I was at it. Van is running better than ever.
#9
I completed this same job on my '05 E350, 5.4 motor---it was very simple and relatively easy especially for a first time. I did remove the dog house as there is a second connector on the back side that's more easily accessed from inside the cabin. FWIW I"m NOT a fan of using just any old cleaner I have on hand, much prefer to use something made for cleaning whatever I'm working on. There doesn't seem to be any special coatings on these TB's so any cleaner that specifies for use on throttle bodies (regardless what else its supposedly safe to use on) should work fine.
Mine was a bit gunky but it all came off without any trouble at all. An old tooth brush, small metal bristle detail brush and an even smaller nylon bristle detailing brush were the only real tools needed. I did pay attention to the butterfly valve's edges as build up there can cause rough idle. TB's that are "fly by wire" such as mine have a phenolic spacer plate that have what appear to be silicone gaskets already installed (not replaceable separately) so that was replaced---cost me $15 from the dealership. Carefully torque'ing the bolts to 80 in/lbs + 90* and reinstallation was complete
Since I had to wait for the new gasket/spacer plate to arrive the TB had plenty of time to air out, not that that's too important--I partially cleaned another TB on an earlier E250 w/5.4 motor without removing it from the intake. Once done and the duct work re-connected immediately started that van without any ill effects at all.
I have photos of the before and after is anyone is interested but honestly they're not that exciting or add too much to the discussion. This being an easy job its something most everyone should consider doing from time to time, 100K miles or so maybe?
HTH
Mine was a bit gunky but it all came off without any trouble at all. An old tooth brush, small metal bristle detail brush and an even smaller nylon bristle detailing brush were the only real tools needed. I did pay attention to the butterfly valve's edges as build up there can cause rough idle. TB's that are "fly by wire" such as mine have a phenolic spacer plate that have what appear to be silicone gaskets already installed (not replaceable separately) so that was replaced---cost me $15 from the dealership. Carefully torque'ing the bolts to 80 in/lbs + 90* and reinstallation was complete
Since I had to wait for the new gasket/spacer plate to arrive the TB had plenty of time to air out, not that that's too important--I partially cleaned another TB on an earlier E250 w/5.4 motor without removing it from the intake. Once done and the duct work re-connected immediately started that van without any ill effects at all.
I have photos of the before and after is anyone is interested but honestly they're not that exciting or add too much to the discussion. This being an easy job its something most everyone should consider doing from time to time, 100K miles or so maybe?
HTH
#10
#11
Open the butterfly, shoot some cleaner inside and scrub all the surfaces to remove any crap. The engine should start and run without the air filter and duct work installed---it'll be rough running, warning lights lit up since the MAF is disconnected and not metering incoming air. Those lights go out immediately when everything is re-installed.
Easy peasy job!
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